Pete M

victory none the less

yup, this is what did in my KJ and it works great. would it be cooler if the unit itself was tue blooth capable? indubitably. but not worth what he'd have to charge for it.

front end is apart, both sides. was fairly easy since I did this all a few months ago. tomorrow I start digging into removing the front diff and swapping coils.

victory!

rear axle is in, rear springs are in.

well? did you gets the precious?

I guess I need to retract my previous statement.

89 wrangler would have a 4.2 is it stalling out? or is the idle surging up and down?

dang that was fast! easy come, easy go I guess.

nice! does she have any club cards to hand out?

Have no plans for that. took 14 winters to get to this point. I'll just wash everything thoroughly after any trips up to the great white (salt) north.

progress has been made. out with the old, rusty axle and hitch. I've been in southern junkyards so much lately that I'd apparently forgotten just how horrible it is to work on a rusty rig. today was an eye opener. most of my time was spent getting the axle out. and in with the new and non-rusty. got the fuel tank skid and rust free hitch in place, but couldn't find the rust free bolts I know I have so I decided that was a good time to stop for the day and clean up my work area.

what about buying a tow dolly? those can be very useful outside of an emergency too. I'm a little surprised I don't own one yet.

originally I was going to salvage the old rear axle, but I've changed my mind about that rusty hunk of junk.

I flat-towed my MJ with the Liberty once. I'll never do that again. It was one of the most white-knuckle moments of my life. your ZJ was never rated for towing that much weight without trailer brakes. be cautious. very cautious. Flat towing a rig (that's equal in size) is not like regular towing. the towed rig can push you around in ways you've never dreamed. you have to seriously slow down for turns or even gentle curves in the road. and the hitch rotates up and down, unlike a trailer. hard braking can then push the rear of your ZJ up or down depending on what's happening and on how straight it was while normal. Imagine a panic stop but instead of the front end diving down and planting, it goes up and gets light and squirrely as the towed rig tries to jump up into your hatch. Emergencies are emergencies though Does that only bolt to the bumper points? I would at least add a plate so that it stretches back to include the factory tow hook mounting mount. the factory bumper mounts were for collisions, not yanking on.

it's a vid on fb so I'm not sure if this will work for everyone, but here goes:

welcome! that topper is just plain awesome!

I haven't bought a stand in over a decade so I think I'm good.

3.73 is by far the most common ratio in KJs since that was the v6/auto. I believe 3.55 was stickshifts in ~05+

it's getting real

also in the link in my sig is a thread with PDFs of some of the factory shop manuals. it's a slippery slope with brake upgrades. before long you'll want to do them all. a dual booster with traditional cherokee prop up front, delete the rear valve stuff for a simple line, and rear ZJ disks and you will be a much happier owner.

MJs have a very particular bleeding procedure. should be in the link in my sig. or you can delete the rear prop valve. should be a writeup about that in there too.

swapping to disks while you're in there?