Pete M

found something tasty at the store today.

dude, you hand-built a garage for your MJ (plus other projects, but don't tell her that!) hiccups aside, I'm struggling to find a better feeling than introducing her to the new home

nope, not me. can't afford something that nice.

bite your tongue! no such thing!

feels good, doesn't it

paste the VIN number into the search bar and every use of it will pop up.

I see its been on a diet...

I don't typically watch any show that involves rando people and their personalities. show me the project. I don't want to hear from the builder.

looks decent. I see a bit of bubbling above the rear flare in the garaged pic.

excellent writeup! holy moly that's a lot of work for such a little thing.

decent looking truck for the money. no underside pictures though. added to the registry.

that's not how fluid dynamics works.

can't help but notice there aren't any underside pics.

nice it's hard to tell from the pic, but are those lift block on the front axle?

220 is nothing all that out of the ordinary for a particularly stressful drive in a renix Jeep. also be aware that the dash gauge is not all that accurate.

how much adjustment is left in the factory spot? (it scoots the lower control arm rear hole forward/backward) you can also adjust the steering stops by undoing the screw and putting a washer behind it.

I've got no experience with the WJ uppers. as lift goes up, you want the arms to get longer. both upper and lower, but not necessarily at the same rates. how much lift do you have?

before you get too crazy with things, is the radio on mute?

you should measure your truck to confirm what you have in the way of lift. the factory procedure is in the link in my signature. at 3" the uppers are very close to their max. as more lift occurs they can pull the upper part of the axle rearward and you'd gain caster angle.

WJ arms are the same length eye-to-eye as stock MJ arms, so the same lift guidelines would fit: 0-2". it is possible that they will hit some bracketry because they are beefier than stock. I simple trimmed a little here and there to get max droop. is it necessary? nope. it'll be just fine without trimming because I don't think this level of droop generally happens offroading. I did this all in the garage making guesses. never did get to test the truck out. here are some shots of the little bits I trimmed off the ends and the locations of where they were touching.

soooooooooo close..... turns out that's an E12 and E14.

same here. bottle jack, crowbar, and ratchet straps are my go-to tools. it's a real pain every time.

that thought has occurred to me , but my "welder" is a harbor freight sticker and I'm not sure I trust it's capabilities when it matters (aka hammering on the new wrench near my face). it's job is to hold 2 pieces of steel together juuuust long enough to haul it to a pro. I really should invest in a decent welder.