Pete M

that's not how fluid dynamics works.

can't help but notice there aren't any underside pics.

nice it's hard to tell from the pic, but are those lift block on the front axle?

220 is nothing all that out of the ordinary for a particularly stressful drive in a renix Jeep. also be aware that the dash gauge is not all that accurate.

how much adjustment is left in the factory spot? (it scoots the lower control arm rear hole forward/backward) you can also adjust the steering stops by undoing the screw and putting a washer behind it.

I've got no experience with the WJ uppers. as lift goes up, you want the arms to get longer. both upper and lower, but not necessarily at the same rates. how much lift do you have?

before you get too crazy with things, is the radio on mute?

you should measure your truck to confirm what you have in the way of lift. the factory procedure is in the link in my signature. at 3" the uppers are very close to their max. as more lift occurs they can pull the upper part of the axle rearward and you'd gain caster angle.

WJ arms are the same length eye-to-eye as stock MJ arms, so the same lift guidelines would fit: 0-2". it is possible that they will hit some bracketry because they are beefier than stock. I simple trimmed a little here and there to get max droop. is it necessary? nope. it'll be just fine without trimming because I don't think this level of droop generally happens offroading. I did this all in the garage making guesses. never did get to test the truck out. here are some shots of the little bits I trimmed off the ends and the locations of where they were touching.

soooooooooo close..... turns out that's an E12 and E14.

same here. bottle jack, crowbar, and ratchet straps are my go-to tools. it's a real pain every time.

that thought has occurred to me , but my "welder" is a harbor freight sticker and I'm not sure I trust it's capabilities when it matters (aka hammering on the new wrench near my face). it's job is to hold 2 pieces of steel together juuuust long enough to haul it to a pro. I really should invest in a decent welder.

boiling up some rhubarb and strawberries for waffles/toast/bagels/whatever seriously looking forward to breakfast tomorrow! in fact, I might throw some on some vanilla ice cream tonight

and google is not helping much. after stripping a caliper bolt head on the PT cruiser yesterday (got it off with a 6pt socket), I've decided I want to replace the 12mm and 14mm 12pt wrenches in the brakejob bag with 6pt. but honestly the perfect wrench for this job would be a 6point 12mm/14mm combo with a 0* angle box head, no ratcheting mechanism (so I can whack it with a hammer), and maybe even longer than normal. does anyone know of a wrench that fits the bill? before I go and compromise with one of the aspects, I figured I'd ask around.

the Mercedes "bubbletop" concept car. blazing sun all day long without any of that pesky wind in your hair.

the Peugeot manual transmission isn't going to like any addition horsepower, that's for sure. do make sure that it's the rear main seal leaking, rather than the rear of the valve cover leaking down the back of the engine.

if it has no radiator cap on it, then 87-90 if it does have a radiator cap on it, then 87-01

them's some sexy axles right thar. also, what all is going on the background of the shop?

Spoiler alert!!!

there are reasons why no one has done it yet. I wish you the best of luck. keep us posted. maybe we can help solve any problems.

got a BIN option this time https://www.ebay.com/itm/284346149085?hash=item423459e8dd:g:I9IAAOSwuwpg1SZz

if we're talking about a DIY style kit, it's probably even better if you can have the hoop in 2 pieces. both for shipping, and manufacturing. then you can make exactly 2 different things, a hoop half and a runner (keeping in mind that longbeds and shortbeds have different runner angles and lengths) and send each person a pair of hoop halves, and a pair of runners. the biggest hurdle is finding someone that can bend that big of pipe into the fairly complicated twists and turns.