Pete M

There may be some pointers for you in here: http://gojeep.willyshotrod.com/HowtoSpeedoGears.htm http://www.naxja.org/forum/showthread.php?t=921205

As I understand it, I believe your TJ would have the 1330 U-joints. I could be wrong. I don't own an Explorer or a TJ to go measure. :dunno:

Rather than your rears being too soft, I'd phrase it as your fronts may be too stiff. I'm running 180s up front too but I have a wicked heavy front bumper. If you want to stiffen the rear a bit, I'd recommend adding a second main leaf from an MJ. Cut the eyes off and place it under your current main leaf. Helps to control spring-wrap too. :thumbsup:

The explorer would have a flange adapter that fits a 1330 U-joint. Your Jeep uses a 1310 U-joint, so no the Explorer one won't work. I think either an Areostar adapter or a Ranger adapter is the right size Make sure the Ford you're looking at has an 8.8 and not the smaller 7.5 (or whatever the number is). Ford used the 8.8 differential on all sorts of vehicles (but only the Explorer axle will fit your Jeep).

The swing arm on the valve should be approximately parallel with the ground.

We're all pullin' for ya!! --Pete

Has it gone out? or is it not keeping time anymore?

You're going to plop this in the classifieds then, yes?

Timing is set by the computer.

What is the spring rate of the front coils? Are you using poly or rubber C-bushings?

Factory axle in an 86 would be non-C-clip.

My guess is the whistling sound is coming from the throttle body plate and your intake system isn't muffling it as well as the stock unit. Mine does the same thing. Annoying as all get out. :mad:

Oh yeah, well, mine is "all natural". :D (that first rusty AMC 20 is under my 86 for anyone that didn't know)

I'm told there were a handful of J-trucks that came with a 5-lug Dana 60, although I've forgotten what the number stamped into the axle was. :( It isn't a narrow axle though.

I think I can answer that one. :D What kind of air intake do you have?

I gotta run out the door, but here are a few quick thoughts, Flex isn't everything. Having said that, I hate, hate, hate the aftermarket poly C-bushings I used at first. They suck at allowing flex. I bought a set based on my original calculations and guesses on what my caster would be with my planned geometry and thank goodness my numbers were off and the stock rubbers worked fine (and allowed more flex). An unexpected advantage of the ford radius arms is that I don't need an anti-sway bar. I drove that hunk of rust to Moab and back and never ever thought, "Gee I wish I fabbed in a sway bar". Trying to tuck the arms mounting points up above the lower edge of the frame seem a bit over-kill, but I guess it depends on what you want and the design you come up with. I used Ford van mounts and welded them to my custom crossmember. They have hit stuff in the past, but never to the point where I might have gotten hung up (essentially it makes a nice ramp). It all depends on the terrain you wheel and how much perfection you want to design in. My truck was built with minimal money and minimal tools. Keep in mind that the higher up your rear mounting point, the steeper the angle of your arms will be. Getting your arms to clear the front of the frame might be tricky.

If you were burning that much oil I'd have to guess that you'd be leaving a huge cloud of smoke behind you. And I'm just throwing this out there, but it took me 5 tries to get my rear main leak-free.

You've got spark, you've got gas. I'm assuming you've got air so that should equal ignition. All I can think of to suggest is to make sure the air flow is unencumbered and to double and triple check the order of the plug wires. :dunno:

I'm guessing that it needs a better ground. Mine was grounded to the tiny screw behind the drivers side tail light. Also, be sure to review rule # 2: :thumbsup: http://comancheclub.com/forums/viewtopic.php?t=1239

For a while I was moving my 90 around between the garage and parking lot across the street even though I had no use of the clutch (blown line). I just put it into first (or reverse as circumstances required) and cranked. The truck would slowly move forward during cranking and then come to life when the engine fired. Then I could drive it around to the garage. :D I'm sure it's harder on the starter, but it does work in a pinch.

About 4/6ths of that. :D

There are soooooooooooooo many things that can make a perfectly good engine feel like it's dying. What makes you think yours is about to kick the bucket? I'd hate for you to spend a couple grand dropping in a new engine only to find out it's just a bad fuel pump or clogged cat.

89 and 90 should be close enough.

You could always call up a junkyard in a rust-free locale. Try car-part.com and search for MJ specific parts like rear axles or tailgates or such and call to see if they'd ship you a couple brackets.

Np 231s are cheap enough. It'd probably be easier to just get another non-thrashed one. Make sure it has the right spline count.