Pete M

4.5 coils... plus new shocks, and a sway bar fix, and new control arms, and a new trac bar, and new brake lines, etc... Please don't get the impression that lifting an MJ only requires new springs.

We've got a pretty basic forums software here (it was free after all). Maybe that feature will come with the next upgrade?

Hmmm. Now there's some food for thought. :brows:

A lift block won't lift the rear of a stock MJ. It would lower it since our leafs are under the axle. Lift blocks will lift an XJ though, since XJs have their leafs above the axle.

Haven't yet decided precisely which parts I'll be using, but at this time I have no plans to adapt any sort of parking brake. But then again that might change if I find a good write-up from someone that has. These are a couple write-ups I've found so far. There are other vehicles in the world that use the 5on5.5 pattern so I plan to try every one of their rotors when the time comes. :D I'm not real keen on copying either one directly. I think I can do better. http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?t=229934 http://fordfuelinjection.com/bronco/brakes.html This is my current parking brake. Hasn't let me down yet. :D

With the internal drum emergency brakes like a ZJ or 8.8 or without? I plan on going without. After a heavy mud trip I'll still have to clean the vents in all 4 rotors thou. Oh, it'll all still have to be cleaned of course, but I can clean most all of the mud out of my front disks with a garden hose at the 4x4park or in town at the DIY carwash. What I should have clarified that better and said that I won't have to pull off the drums before hitting the road.

XJs and MJs are identical in that respect. But sometimes I've found myself saying "Cherokee" because the guy on the other side of the counter didn't know what a "Comanche" was. :(

You weren't the only one that hated them. I've heard that from a couple others. One guy was complaining of a weak sidewall and another thought they were impossible to balance. I love mine though. :D I drove on a set of 33s out to Moab (3k miles of highway) and wheeled on the Utah slickrock plus lots of mud in Colorado and Illinois. They have proven themselves in sand and snow too. They are very sensitive to funny wear though. Just rotate them with your oil changes and you'll be fine. 5k mile interval at the longest.

Do you believe in magic? :roll: When it comes to computers? You bet. :D

I've got no idea how you guys are putting in the larger-than-normal pics. I set limitations in the forum software. :dunno:

Anything that pulls air from the engine compartment isn't "cold". In fact, the air under the hood of my 88 is downright hot. :(

I'll eventually being putting disks on my 88's 9" purely to eliminate having to clean out the mud. No other reason. I hate pulling off the tires and drums when the entire vehicle is wet and muddy. :(

What are you trying to do?

For sharp rocks (and no mud) I'd go with the MTR. :D

The big reason to go with the 3.4 is the owner gets to reuse all of his current 2.8L stuff (exhaust, motor mounts, engine accessories, etc). If most of this stuff is bad or the truck is rotted out, then selling the truck and buying a 4.0 is likely a better deal. But if the owner has a cherry 86 and the 2.8 finally gave up the ghost, then the 3.4 is a practically bolt-in swap and they get to keep their baby. :D

This site should help out a bit: http://www.madxj.com/MADXJ/technical/te ... dSeals.htm

It could be a small short in the system. A truck to narrow down which circuit is the culprit is to pull out one fuse at a time and check the amps at the battery using a multimeter. In fact, you should probably first verify that there is indeed a drain and it's not simply a failing battery (which you can get checked out for free at many auto parts stores).

Fuel pump relay?

If you haven't already, I would check the fluid level again. There might have been air pockets in the trans before and the fluid level was actually even lower than it looked. My buddy's old Bronco had a trans that would do that (the air pocket thing, not the erratic shifting thing).

Dumping the 3.07s isn't as much about wheeling as it is about keeping it fun to drive on the street. Offroad you can always shift into 4-low. Simply finding a set of XJ 3.55 axles will help out a lot.

You'll need just about everything from the newer vehicle. Another choice is to grab just the shortblock from any newer rig and bolt that in place of your tired block. :D

I can't figure out how you could attach an EGR to a non-EGR intake. Maybe if you welded on a little tab so you could bolt it into it's approximate place and then run some fake vacuum lines to it and call it good?

I remember hearing a while back that the tach was somehow adjustable and hence a 4.0 cluster could be fitted into a 2.5 truck.

You've double checked that the pilot bushing will indeed fit in the hole, yes?

:hmm: