Pete M

These are 235s on a 4wd: And these are 30s on a 2wd:

Are you running stock rims? 235s are just a hair smaller than a 30" tire and I had 30" tires on my 2wd MJ with no rubbing so you should be good. And yes, your rim bolt patter is 5-on-4.5"

Fuel pressure regulators are rarely the problem. If you're burning too much fuel, it could be a host of other items, like a bad o2 sensor, a leaky fuel injector, bad map sensor, etc. I'm not saying it couldn't still be the regulator, I'm just saying that usually it's one of the other things.

You've got it. :D Nice looking truck by the way. :brows:

Does your exhaust smell like gasoline at all?

Your t-case is what shifts you into 2 or 4wd. The Central Axle Disconnect (CAD) in the front axle was Jeep's futile attempt to gain extra mileage by reducing the spinning parts while driving in 2wd (mostly your front driveshaft). But there weren't any tangible gains and so they abandoned it for the reliable non-CAD axles. Another option is swapping in the solid shafts from a later model Jeep and get the bigger 297 U-joints too. U-joint upgrade page

Upgrade your front U-joints. shaft/joint upgrade

You could just shift the collar over in a semi-permanent fashion and never worry about it again. There are a few methods for this, including washers, a hose clamp or flipping the hosing upside down.

But I'm fixing the fact that the pinion isn't symmetrical. :D

I've yet to read of anyone that had a problem from the pumpkin offset. And you may not need spacers depending on your rim and tire combo. But for what it's worth, back when I was contemplating using an 8.8 under my 90 the plan was to buy a single 1.5" or 2" wheel spacer (a full spacer, not just a plate with holes in it) and run it on the passenger side, thus simultaneously moving the pinion closer to center and widening the axle. Then I'd burn the perches on in the appropriate places (although technically I don't own a strong enough welder so I would have bolted everything up nice and snug an then slowly driven down the street to a local shop). Would I have needed to do either of those things? Nope. I just thought it was a clever idea and wanted to see if it would work. But I backed out in favor of just running the Dana 44 I already had in the garage and sticking with the 3.55 gears (I've only got 31s on that truck).

chop or not, that looks sweet. :D If I win the lotto someday...

How warm is warm?

Why? I've got a ~170 amp alt in my Jeep, I can't imagine needing more power than that. How many 15" woofers are you planning on? :brows:

Dude, at least upgrade your cell phone then! :roll:

Or down. Part of Windsor is south of Detroit. :D

Could be the light is burned out, or maybe the vacuum switch on the passenger side of the engine compartment is bad or sticking.

My old 2wd Peugeot always got noisier when the fluid level got low (had a leak out the back). You'll need to fashion a square drive to remove the plug. Many owners just take an old 3/8" extension and grind the edges till it fits snug. Make sure you can remove the fill plug before you tackle the drain. You wouldn't be the first that could easily removed the drain plug, but then it took a day to get the fill plug out. :D

http://www.jedi.com/obiwan/jeep/ford88.html This site should give you an idea of what's required. Welding will be necessary.

Stupid tiny car. :D If it wasn't so much fun to drive...

I've been going with the philosophy that if I stickied everything that needed to be stickied, we'd have a couple pages full of stickies and likely still be asked about them. :D So I try to resist.

Being in the Bahamas, he might have an export MJ.

And check your alignment. Any height adjustment will alter it.

I'm jealous, but a bit less than I'd normally be. A friend of mine is going out of town for a week starting Tuesday and leaving me with his stickshift Crossfire. :D

I worded that poorly. What I meant was that one could only get an auto behind the 5.9 in Dakotas/Durangos (and the 98 ZJ). A manual trans (nv-4500) was available behind the 5.9L in the fullsize Ram. The 5.2L was good for like 220 or 230 hp. Oh, and the stick was most certainly available behind the 5.2L. ebay dak with 5.2L/stick

When I lost brake lights in my 88 it was due to corrosion in the wire harness connector located behind the drivers side rear tire.