Pete M

I've researched the tire size thing and found that, well, it depends. Some owners have been able to fit a 245/70.

No, you just need to shim the little shifter fork inside the CAD in the front axle. There are a few ways to do this, including washers, a hose clamp, or installing the CAD cover upside down. You could also install the solid shaft from a non-CAD front axle into your current axle. No. Your t-case lever is what shifts you into 4wd and 2wd. Engaging the CAD fulltime will make your Jeep just like any other Jeep made after Chrysler abandoned the concept.

I just wanted to chime in to say that even though the owner may not ever do any "extreme" wheeling, 6.5 inches of lift should be considered an extreme lift. That's way more than the factory suspension design was ever supposed to handle. Also, everyone keep in mind rule #1. :cheers:

I recommend simply eliminating the CAD and keeping it locked all the time. It's simple and ultra-reliable. :D

Take the opportunity to do disks in the rear. If you haven't seen them yet, here's a couple links for ideas: http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?t=229934 http://fordfuelinjection.com/bronco/brakes.html

Finally got the garage cleaned out enough to bring it in (for being a "small" truck, I need a surprisingly large amount of available floorspace). If I get some free time tomorrow I'll be checking it out.

We currently have a CRD libby in the family and my sister had a v6 one a few years back. It's an ok rig, but I'm not sure I'd personally want one that wasn't CRD. The best thing about the other libbys (cause the best thing about mine is the engine :D ) is that, IFS or not, it seem much better built than the other small SUVs I've been in. It has a solid rear axle for goodness sake! Far too many of the other ones have IRS and feel too lightweight. Admittedly the lesser rigs do get a bit better gas mileage, but the libbys feel tougher and more, I don't know, substantial.

Unfortunately the decision isn't easy. Even though I didn't get my "ultimate power plant", I still have a quality block that should provide years of service. And it's more than just an engine, I have half of a corrosion-free Jeep sitting in the garage and I own 2 MJs that have hacked and corroded engine compartments (technically 3 but the 86 doesn't count in this). It doesn't matter when I'll finally be able to get around to it, because there will come a day when I get to work on my MJs (and it's looking like this new engine/wireharness will likely be going into my 90 rather than the 88 because I need that one running sooner). There is very little that I'd want to salvage from the engine compartments of my trucks. They are piles of rusty crap and the components are likely to make the new engine run poorly. I have to consider the un-likelihood of getting all that (and a new engine) again when I'm ready to start swapping. Besides, I think you'd be happier with that 5.9L drivetrain (if the inclusion of the harness pans out). :brows: I have a 5.9 in my Dakota and she absolutely screams! The XJ trans is a bit too long for your YJ (your rear driveshaft will have to get even shorter than it is now) and the wiring harness is completely different than a YJ. It'll be custom everything just to make it work. And if you're going to go custom, by golly you should get yourself a V8 man. :D

The Dana 30 is a pretty good axle. It just needs bigger U-joints and has been known to handle 33s or even 35s if the driver can be gentle with the application of the skinny pedal.

95-01 are all essentially the same. Another point I forgot to mention is that the v6 and v8 axles are identical inside. They differ only with the outside bracketry and you'll be cutting all that off anyways.

The only vehicle to pull an 8.8 out of is the Explorer/Mountaineer. The others are either the wrong width, wrong bolt pattern, weaker or a combination thereof. 95-01 explorers have disk brakes. Earlier models are just as strong but have drums.

It certainly sucks, but it's not unheard of. Rick had a similar issue with his MJ and it's rust-free like yours. Weld it up properly, add a patch over the crack, and then fab yourself a steering box brace that strengthens the entire area. Better than new. :D

I hate the cold, but I love snow. Too bad I live in a part of the country where the winters are cold, but the snow never stays very long. :(

The easiest is to grab an aux fan from an XJ/MJ (make sure the mounting tabs are in good shape) and install it in your truck. Then wire it up (through a relay) to a switch in the cab. How hot is your truck getting?

If your 86 has the larger gas tank, then it won't fit in a shortbed. If your 86 has the smaller tank, then there will likely be some mods needed to hang it as I doubt the straps are in the same spot.

You wouldn't be the first to learn the hard way that 2wd front axle parts are different than 4wd front axle parts. :(

I think the 2.8L has a mechanical pump located on the block.

I haven't had that exact problem yet, but I can tell ya that the wiper stuff isn't under the hood, but inside the cowling area between the hood and the windshield. Could be that the motor has gone bad.

That's the hope at least. I stopped by a gas station yesterday and went in only to find a "restrooms are for employees only" sign. I actually stood patiently in the line at the counter just so I could say that I'm not buying $50 in diesel from them simply because they won't let my use the bathroom (not that the kid behind the counter cared in the least). (It's besides the point that I wasn't there to buy any fuel) :D

Is your computer accepting the appropriate cookies?

Hopefully with the big D out of the picture the remaining big C will be able to pursue some of those rigs that the germans didn't like. :D Here's hopin'.

http://comancheclub.com/forums/viewtopic.php?t=3178

If the heat improves with higher rpms, then I'd suspect a clogged heater core since the flow pressure increases with rpms. You may get lucky and be able to clean it up by disconnecting the inlet and outlet and then reverse flushing it with a garden hose.

Gears, gears, gears and more gears. :D

The double-tube shaft in my 88 shortened just fine. You can't shorten the rubber isolator end, but you can shorten the other end (t-case end).