Pete M

I was thinking 50. One or the other anyway. A couple years back I bought a set of craftsman torx that are embedded in sockets. Guaranteed forever. :D

Dunno. Maybe 6x10? They are "mini vent windows" that were designed to go at the back of a van.

4wd MJ coils and leafs would swap right in and give about an inch of boost (assuming they are in good shape). :thumbsup:

amateurs... :D

It's a lot of weight to drag around everywhere you go. I don't even keep gas in the cans anymore. I've never needed them and so I just used the gas in them one day and never filled them up again. They're just there for looks now. :roll:

Behind this cover on the passenger side of the axle is your CAD (central axle disconnect). Inside is a little fork that slides a collar over to engage the passenger side axleshaft. Jeep, in all their wisdom, came up with this problematic contraption to try and save some gas (which it doesn't). There are a couple of methods to keep the fork engaged all the time and should fix your problem. That's what this link was for: ---> viewtopic.php?f=2&t=12795

The truck should have a TBI fuel injection, not a carb.

Make sure the cleaner you use is o2 sensor safe.

Clogged cat? Does your EGR work ok?

I stand by my statement that gearing is the problem and gearing is the solution. If you've got bigger than stock tires you will want to do that regardless of what engine you have. 3.07 and 3.55 ratios should never have been offered in Jeeps. :( But if you're dead set on swapping drivetrains, go buy a 4.0L XJ that has a good drivetrain and start swapping over everything (and I mean everything, including the hood, radiator support and radiator). You'll have more power than the 3.4 and most everything will bolt-in. And then you'll still not have enough gearing. It'll be better with the added power, but still not ideal if you've got bigger tires.

I fixed that first post for ya. Click on the edit button to see what it should look like. Try to keep the photo addresses on separate lines in your post. It can be tough to get them right if they are all jumbled together. :cheers:

Pull the seat out (there are 4 bolts and they all take a 13 mm socket) Undo the female end of the seatbelt from the floor (takes a very large torx bit) If you've got a bench, then you'll need to feed the belt down through the seat.

I think you guys are putting too much thought into it. I've got 2 military gas cans hanging on the back of my truck. That's 10 gallons and all I needed was to fab up a mount for them. Cost me $10 each And I think they look sweet. :D

The trans might be, but the exhaust, electronics, and everything else associated with the engine is not. The 2.5L and it's fuel injection are better than the 2.8L by far. Is the 2.5 better than a carbed 3.4L? I don't know. If you've got a 4speed manual trans, than you're really being hurt by the crappy 3.55 gear ratio. that is the biggest cause of your truck's sucky performance. I would recommend focusing on getting axles with 4.10s in them rather than an engine swap. :thumbsup:

In the Tech section. I found this one for ya: viewtopic.php?f=2&t=12795

Warped rotors should always be replaced. They should know that. I would make them take the turning price out of the cost of new rotors.

I don't want to crush your dreams, but the reality is that big tires can eat money. They require more to set up in the first place and then break stuff, prematurely wear out stuff, etc. For my 88 (with 1/2 ton Ford axles) I stuck with 33s on 5inches of lift. I've got no need for bigger tires. They provide all of 1 inch more ground clearance and aren't worth the headaches. At least upgrade your front axle shafts to the later model XJ/TJ with the bigger 297 U-joints when you add the bigger tires. :thumbsup: A stock MJ Dana 30 really isn't up to taking on 35s.

Hopefully the factory floor brackets are still there. The floor brackets are the same bench or bucket, so you would need either MJ buckets or XJ buckets, preferably from a 2-door. The XJ buckets with the curved slider will sit you up a couple inches higher than the straight slider. Avoid the power unless you're looking for a big project.

I liked my gas Monroe shocks. Shocks are like oil filters, you do get something for the extra couple bucks to get the better ones. :thumbsup:

Sounds like a poor connection at the battery terminals, or a bad cable. Are the cables original to the truck? Might be a good time to change them. :thumbsup:

Spray down the bolts with PB blaster or other rust penetrant the day before. The top of the front shock on the drivers side is a bit tricky. I actually bought a set of ratcheting wrenches for that one bolt (always wanted a set and it was justification enough for me :D )

Just cause a pair of axles are cheap, doesn't mean they are a good choice. If they are 77 and earlier, the front axle is low pinion, has small U-joints and possibly drum brakes. The rear axle is the small-bearing 28 spline 9". Neither are an especially good choice to build. 78 and 79 Broncos have the cast-in front radius arm perches and are not a good choice if you want a 4-link front suspension. 80 and later Broncos have TTB front axles (a form of IFS) and are worthless. Look into the Rubicon JK axles from Mopar. They are front and rear Dana 44 (equivalent) with selectable lockers and 4.10 gears. Wheel bolt pattern is 5 on 5 and the front already has the right bracketry on it (except for the track bar) and they are brand spankin' new. They will cost a bit under 3 grand for the pair, but you can sink most of that total into old axles and still have, well, old axles. Rumor has it they were thinking on making TJ specific JK axles and that would fix the front track bar issue. Rear axles will just need to be cleaned of all mounts and have leaf perches welded on.

New shocks are always a good thing. Especially if there are doubts about the current ones.

You guys are forgetting that not everyone has a front minispool like me. :D Even in 4lo, as he wrenches on one side, the other side will simply spin the other way. Both front tires are up off the ground.