Pete M

We've got a couple Jeepspeed guys here. Someone needs to get their attention so they can offer some input. :waving:

The factory specs for the AX-15 changed to (I think) 10-w40 engine oil. Since the AX-5 is so similar, I'd bet they changed it for that too.

OEM masters should be available at your local Jeep dealership. :thumbsup:

The locker is inside of the differential, it can't get mud in it.

OR you can have someone hold one axleshaft still while you spin the other axle shaft around twice, and count how many times the pinion rotates. about 3 times means 3.07s; about 3 and a half means 3.54; and a little over 4 times means 4.10s.

They're round and steel and hold the air in the tire. :D

Baby powder is your friend. The rain water will make tracks through it, showing you where the leak is. That's how I've tracked down a couple hard-to-find leaks in my trucks.

I'm not sure if "cheap" and "desert racing" can be used in the same sentence. :hmm:

Or you can go with an Electrac and have a button. :D

Actually the Big Ton package was available with the 4cyl/5speed according to the dealership brochures. That would explain the choice of 4.10s in a car-part.com search.

Are you planning on high speed running? Or just the look?

Wow. I wasn't aware that their herds got that big. :hmm:

:needpics:

There should be a label tag hanging on one of the cover bolts. Or you can turn the pinion and count the number of times the axle shafts turn.

Some have thought about it, but I don't think anyone has actually done it yet. :hmm:

Dash was still there too. As I understand it, weight is sorta an afterthought for land speed records. Apparently wind resistance is the big obstacle. W.F.C. says he'll likely be adding weight to the backend of the truck to help maintain traction. We know almost nothing about the runs out on the salt flats. But we hold hope that we can track down one of the original guys that worked on the project and he can fill in some details. :thumbsup:

The "rules" for 86 by far have the most exceptions and I don't even try to guess anymore. :shake:

Yeah right. Lately it's been rough finding Jeeps in the local pully-our-parts, let alone something as new as a WJ. :( I got those a couple years ago off of Ebay of all places and installed them on my 90 (0 lift and 31s). I would start with car-part.com and search locally for WJ-specific parts like the rear axle assembly, then call up the places and ask if the lower control arms are still there. Or pay attention to Jeep sites that have WJ owners. They might throw them up in the classifieds after installing a lift. Although you might want to place an ad in the wanted section of those sites as a lot of people just throw stock parts away without thinking.

Here's your cure for the rubbing, as well as a better ride due to the younger bushings and stronger design: Or maybe a set of aftermarket ones that match the 3" lift. That could work too.

So do you have stock LCAs or not?

Have you asked them about it? It might fly since it's all their stuff.

Looks like the frame tie-in brackets have a whole bunch of holes in them. I'd personally prefer the tie ins be welded to the bumper than worry about the warranty, but I understand your concern. I think you should be fine with the JCR tie ins. Are you sure JCR would void the warranty on a JRC bumper if you welded the JCR brackets to them? I didn't see anything about that on the site, but admittedly I didn't look all that hard..

Gears are usually dependent on engine and trans. rules of thumb: 4.0 + auto = 3.55 4.0 + manual = 3.07 2.5 + 4sp manual = 3.55 2.5 + 5sp manual = 4.10 2.5 + auto = 4.56 any MJ from 86 will need a personal inspection to know for sure. Online VIN/SER info on our 20 year old Jeeps can be sketchy at best.

I would do the spring-over and then tweak it from there.

For what it's worth, I don't use those front 3 holes at all. I use 3 grade 8 bolts (1/2" or bigger) per side and none of the factory bumper spots.