Pete M

With a heavy bumper you should have ordered the 180 pound coils (of course, I assume they still sell them). I've got Rusty's 3" 180# coils and they've held up pretty good (aside from the fact that they are as rusty as my Rusty's trackbar mount :shake: )

I haven't a clue what my near future holds. I'll be in GA tomorrow evening though and maybe I'll know more then.

there's always plan B: I'll do it for ya. :thumbsup: Keep learning though. Some day the knowledge will come in handy. :cheers: To reduce I use a program called ACDSee. Does a good job of retaining details as it gets shrunk. I can even just type in 100x150 and it'll shrink tit to those specs. Last time I used Paint for that it was a real pain in the butt. :(

The 231 is capable of taking a cable speedo, you just need to get one from a cable 231 (87-90). Of course, I'm assuming that the 207 one won't fit in there. I've never checked. You might need to swap the plastic gears on it though. Some years had long ones and some short.

I have no firsthand experience with any aftermarket control arms. But I do know you get what you pay for. Get some quality units. Also, I wouldn't get that particular kit. I'd go get a complete kit from a single manufacturer so I know it all works together and if there's ever a problem with a part, they can't blame it on some other part I installed.

Yes, if you convert to a solid axleshaft, you won't need those vcacuum lines any more. MAke sure you cap that last prt where the vacuum originates. And definitely make sure you install the proper seals. Forgot about that. :doh:

It's not especially necessary on an MJ (we have much longer rear driveshafts and so U-joint angles are less severe), but if you can float the money, it's a good upgrade. They tend to be stronger than stock and they seal up the back of the t-case so you can pull the driveshaft without spilling fluid all over the place.

Absolutely. They need to be the correct length for the amount of lift. This will correct the suspension geometry and push the tire forwards, back into the center of the wheel well (arms that are too short will pull the tire back into the rear of the flare).

Hubs are completely different than the CAD. The CAD is the big bulge on the passenger side of the diff. On that side is a 2 piece axle shaft. Inside the CAD is a collar that slides over to hold the 2 pieces together, giving you in a sense, a 1 piece shaft like most other Jeeps.

I thought the 231s behind AX-5s remained 21 spline. :dunno:

I would. It's just easier to match the Ford front with the Dana 60. Plus you'll never ever have to worry about breaking that 60. Be prepared that it's not as light as the 8.8 and moving it around can be rough. Or you can try and find a 77 and earlier Ford truck Dana 44 front end (the ones where the radius arm mounts are welded on, not integral like 78-79) and match that with a 9" rear. They'll still take the punishment and be a bit lighter. Or build up a 78-79 using the radius arms like I did. :D

Personally I wouldn't go past 33s on a plain-jane Dana 30 (with 297s) and wouldn't go past 35s on a bliinged-out Dana 30. No matter what you do to the rest of the axle, you still have the small gearset at its heart. Just go find some 70s era 3/4 ton Ford axles (44 front and 60 rear) and go nuts with them. Invest your money into something worth while. :thumbsup:

No, shimming the CAD won't hurt anything. It makes it like you've got a one-piece axle shaft on the passenger side, that's all. No Jeep since '95 has had a CAD and they all work fine. :D Just don't drive around on dry pavement in 4wd. That's bad no matter what.

I would get a non-CAD front axle. And I wouldn't worry too much about the 4wd transmission harness. To the best of my knowledge, I think it only turns on the little 4wd light on the dash (which your 2wd truck won't have anyway). Oh, and you can have the 2wd rear driveshaft cut down to size if you can't find the right 4wd rear shaft.

Well, I guess my season if over. Went to draft someone and the site told me the playoffs are starting. Dang. And there was finally a good QB up for grabs. :fs1:

ifsja.org says they should be a pair of 44s.

If you right-click on your images at the pituretrail site, then click on the "copy image location" in that menu (might say something a bit different if you're using explorer) and then paste that here, highlight it, and then click on the IMG tag right above the texting box, you'll be able to post your own pics. :thumbsup:

I started a M+G post in the "wheelin" forum. Go add some input so we can try to figure something out over the next week. :thumbsup:

If you want to run big tires, then you need to upgrade your shafts because otherwise you're stuck with the puny 260 U-joints. Find some axle shafts from a late model XJ or TJ and kill two birds with one stone (297 shafts and kiss that CAD goodbye forever). :thumbsup:

Fill plug is on the back side right about in the middle of the t-case. And yes, ATF.

That's a bit more than the magazines all said they would go for. :( They are probably ion backorder because other companies are snatching them up to resell. Oh well.

Early AX-5s were external, then they switched to internal (and then back to external but that was after the MJ was gone).

Well, then I can at least answer one of your questions. The timing isn't adjustable. It's set and control by the computer.

Probably the vacuum line is broken or when you swapped in the new t-case something didn't line up right or maybe the fork or the little vacuum shifter was sticking in place. Either way, if you do the mod to keep the collar slid over all the time, you won't need the vacuum lines anymore. :thumbsup:

The Peugeot is on the right. My advice is to ask around and try to find a used one in decent shape. Some guys could do a whole AX-15 conversion for the price of a new Peugeot mount. :(