Pete M

You guys aren't seriously arguing about an inch are you? :shake: (or more precisely, a half-inch of rolling radius) FWIW, MJs came with anywhere from 195s to 225s.

You can buy a harness that gives him a bit of freedom in the bed, but restrains him in case of a mishap.

I doubt that running it for 5 minutes won't even recharge the juice it took to start the truck in the first place. I suspect a bad battery. Take your battery to an auto parts store. Most will check it for free. :thumbsup: If you have a multimeter, you can easily check to see if the alternator is putting out enough voltage.

The 2.8L died (thank goodness) at the end of the 86 model year.

Pretty sweet aren't they. :D

I don't know. But then, I'm not the cops. 8) Some guys do it themselves, others have a shop do it. It's all up to you.

Don't know. Can't be much though. Call and ask around your area. Because unscrupulous individuals can roll back the odo and sell a 200k miles car as a 100k miles car. Essentially, the government doesn't trust regular people to do it properly. If a shop does it and you have the paperwork, your tail is covered.

You can try lubing it as best you can. Make sure you lube the rest of it too. I use PB blaster to free it up and get it moving, then lithium grease for long-term frictionlessness (technical term).

Questions should really go in the Tech forum. :thumbsup:

Depends on what went wrong. Did the center pivot mechanism stick? Did the cable stick? Did you rip the pull handle off? (like so many of us do. :( )

The major search engines have these little "bots" that go out and retrieve info for use in their databases. I'm told that, unless they are eating up bandwidth, they are perfectly harmless. :thumbsup:

No splicing is required. Just swap out the sensors. This will show you how to adjust your ODO: http://www.naxja.org/forum/showthread.php?t=921205 If you take it to a shop, they can reset the odometer legally and give you the proper paperwork.

From what I've read, the really aggressive cams help on high rpm power, but hurt low rpm power. Those are relative terms though. I don't know anyone near me that's put a really aggressive cam in a 4.0.

The engine temp and oil pressure switches need to be swapped for temp and pressure sensors. Try to get one from your era. 84-86. 87-90, and 91+. The 84-86 can be adapted to the 87-90 (and vis-versa) by reusing some speedo cable parts fro the old cluster.

check for rust around where the running boards mount.

I bu the cheapest oils I can get my hands on. Unless you're pushing your parts to their limit, changing them on a regular basis is far more important than the price. Except for oil filters. Spend some coin and get a good quality filter. :thumbsup: (no frams)

If you want to host something for posting, feel free to email it to me and I'll take care of it on my picturetrail site. :thumbsup:

You should be able to use plain ol' bulk rubber vacuum line. Just make sure the inner diameter is the same.

Jeep t-cases call for ATF. 80-90 weight is way thicker. GL-5 rated gear oil will eat away at the synchros of an AX-15 (and I assume an AX-5 also, but don't own one so I don't know what the synchros are made of).

Yes! Took me a moment to figure out what to do, but I've successfully split off my first topic. :D Bump for the new topic.

Hold on a sec, I gotta beeetch slap myself for not thoroughly reading your post. :doh: I thought you meant in this forum and yes, they go in this forum. But no matter. It gives me a chance to work on my new mod powers (namely splitting a topic). :cheers:

DIY = do it yourself. Yes, you should put those here. :thumbsup:

My aftermarket tach went to the coil, or more precisely, one of the wires right below the coil. Can't remember which one though. I'm thinking black. It was in the instructions that came with the tach. Can't even go look since I removed it for a factory setup years ago.

I'd be surprised if I had any more than 50 at the rear of my 88. :shake: She's a tired, tired engine... :( Lots of torque around idle though. :D