Pete M

I think you guys are putting too much thought into it. I've got 2 military gas cans hanging on the back of my truck. That's 10 gallons and all I needed was to fab up a mount for them. Cost me $10 each And I think they look sweet. :D

The trans might be, but the exhaust, electronics, and everything else associated with the engine is not. The 2.5L and it's fuel injection are better than the 2.8L by far. Is the 2.5 better than a carbed 3.4L? I don't know. If you've got a 4speed manual trans, than you're really being hurt by the crappy 3.55 gear ratio. that is the biggest cause of your truck's sucky performance. I would recommend focusing on getting axles with 4.10s in them rather than an engine swap. :thumbsup:

In the Tech section. I found this one for ya: viewtopic.php?f=2&t=12795

Warped rotors should always be replaced. They should know that. I would make them take the turning price out of the cost of new rotors.

I don't want to crush your dreams, but the reality is that big tires can eat money. They require more to set up in the first place and then break stuff, prematurely wear out stuff, etc. For my 88 (with 1/2 ton Ford axles) I stuck with 33s on 5inches of lift. I've got no need for bigger tires. They provide all of 1 inch more ground clearance and aren't worth the headaches. At least upgrade your front axle shafts to the later model XJ/TJ with the bigger 297 U-joints when you add the bigger tires. :thumbsup: A stock MJ Dana 30 really isn't up to taking on 35s.

Hopefully the factory floor brackets are still there. The floor brackets are the same bench or bucket, so you would need either MJ buckets or XJ buckets, preferably from a 2-door. The XJ buckets with the curved slider will sit you up a couple inches higher than the straight slider. Avoid the power unless you're looking for a big project.

I liked my gas Monroe shocks. Shocks are like oil filters, you do get something for the extra couple bucks to get the better ones. :thumbsup:

Sounds like a poor connection at the battery terminals, or a bad cable. Are the cables original to the truck? Might be a good time to change them. :thumbsup:

Spray down the bolts with PB blaster or other rust penetrant the day before. The top of the front shock on the drivers side is a bit tricky. I actually bought a set of ratcheting wrenches for that one bolt (always wanted a set and it was justification enough for me :D )

Just cause a pair of axles are cheap, doesn't mean they are a good choice. If they are 77 and earlier, the front axle is low pinion, has small U-joints and possibly drum brakes. The rear axle is the small-bearing 28 spline 9". Neither are an especially good choice to build. 78 and 79 Broncos have the cast-in front radius arm perches and are not a good choice if you want a 4-link front suspension. 80 and later Broncos have TTB front axles (a form of IFS) and are worthless. Look into the Rubicon JK axles from Mopar. They are front and rear Dana 44 (equivalent) with selectable lockers and 4.10 gears. Wheel bolt pattern is 5 on 5 and the front already has the right bracketry on it (except for the track bar) and they are brand spankin' new. They will cost a bit under 3 grand for the pair, but you can sink most of that total into old axles and still have, well, old axles. Rumor has it they were thinking on making TJ specific JK axles and that would fix the front track bar issue. Rear axles will just need to be cleaned of all mounts and have leaf perches welded on.

New shocks are always a good thing. Especially if there are doubts about the current ones.

You guys are forgetting that not everyone has a front minispool like me. :D Even in 4lo, as he wrenches on one side, the other side will simply spin the other way. Both front tires are up off the ground.

Almost. I forgot to mention, please don't ever EVER sink any money into repairing a Peugeot (or a Dana 35 while we're on the subject of crap-tastic Jeep parts). Some members have spent hundreds on a rebuild only to have it fail again soon after. The case itself is very weak.

I've been known to shove a 2x4 of the proper length between the brake pedal and the seat. :shake: Not sure if you want to do that. Another plan would be to take a long screwdriver and stick in down through the axle shaft yoke by the U-joint.

The easiest thing would be to just cap off all of the vacuum lines and do one of the mods that keeps the CAD engaged all the time (a search for CAD should bring up one of the topics).

Regearing takes a whole lot of stress off your drivetrain. Think of it as giving all the parts a bigger handle which which to apply force on the tires. But aside from that, the 87-89.5 Peugeot trans (BA-10) is a notoriously weak transmission. I blew mine up running 30s on a 2wd. Be prepared that it could self destruct (slowly or quickly) and have a backup plan. The most common upgrade is to swap in an AX-15 manual trans from an '89.5-'99 4.0L XJ/MJ/YJ/TJ (the XJ/MJ are a mostly bolt-in proposition, the YJ and TJ require a bit more mods to work, any of them will require a matching 23 spline input t-case). Several people report that their Peugeot is still going strong, so if yours gives you no problems, keep it. Just be aware that many many more of us have replaced it. Keep the fluid level topped off and be gentle. :thumbsup:

Have someone sit inside and apply the brakes?

I don't know. On the 4.0 it's on the pass side of the block and has a single wire going to it.

The transition from direct-current to current-through-the-ballast-resistor usually happens 1-2 seconds after startup.

Just be careful when you spray. Every once in a while we get a post from someone who's truck doesn't run right after he was hosing it off in a car wash. Usually it's because the TPS got wet.

Based on that info, I'd suggest being patient and waiting til you can do it right. 33s and 3.07s will SUCK on a dd. Also, your Peugeot trans may not last very long with 33s. While it may or may not be physically possible to stuff 33s into the MJs tiny wheel wells, the truck is not going to perform very well after doing so, not offroad or on road.

It's a Chevy 60* engine block. I think you'll have more success with Chevy transmissions. :thumbsup: The 4.0L and 2.8L do not share block bolt patterns

Be careful what you spray. Plenty of thing in the engine bay do not like to get blasted with water. (especially the throttle body area)

Does your truck currently have a bench or buckets?