Pete M

If you pour water into the cowl, you should see it come out below, behind the fender. I would be looking inside the cowl for cracks or rust holes.

New pressure bottles have been showing up on ebay for pretty cheap. :thumbsup:

In my humble opinion, the AMC 20 is quite under-rated. It's gotten a bad wrap from the CJ 2-piece shafts, and the ginormous weight of the Waggys (5k+ with passengers) sitting on them. The MJ has neither of those drawbacks. :D

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What all comes with the Mopar repair kit? One of the upper hinges in my rust free shell has just started to crack the welds. :(

It's a decent price if the axle is in decent shape. :thumbsup:

You only need the factory parts off a PS equipped MJ/XJ with the same engine. Pump, resevoir, brackets, belt, power steering box, etc. Anything associated with it. :thumbsup: Where do you live?

If they are for a 6" XJ lift, the fronts will work, the rears can be made to work (depends on where you're locating the lower mounts).

Give him a club business card. :D I remember the controversy over those pictures. It was hilarious. :rotf:

You can snag an AX-5 from a 2.5L/2.8L Cherokee/Comanche or 2.5L Wrangler of any year. Another good upgrade for you is to grab the rear axle out of that rig you get the trans from. As a general rule of thumb: 2.5L+4spd manual = 3.55 gears, 2.5L+5spd manual = 4.10 gears

This article should give you a good start: http://jeep.off-road.com/jeep/article/a ... ?id=277008

Chrysler's new oil spec now call for 10w-40 engine oil in the AX-15. And for what it's worth, I've had a couple manual trannys in my Jeeps that needed to warm up a bit to work well. :dunno:

Once the XJ is on the dolly, I would unbolt the rear shaft from the rear axle (it's only 4 nuts) and strap it up securely under the Jeep. If you pull the driveshaft from the t-case, the fluid will come pouring out. :thumbsup:

Change the oil every 2000-2500 miles and treat it kindly and it might last a good long while.:D Or it might explode tomorrow. :dunno: It's really hard to say. Mine has over 200k on it. It sucks, but it still pushes the truck forward. eventually. That engine is up there with the Peugeot transmission and Dana 35 as the worst things Jeep put in our rigs. All three have a propensity for failing when you least expect it. My 88's peugeot blew up as I was just cruising along with rush hour traffic on the freeway. Bang! My 88's Dana 35 blew up as I turned a corner. Bang-Bang-Bang-Bang! My 86's 2.8 is still kicking, but she ain't winning any races. Bang! (that bang was the 86's muffler blowing up last summer). :shake: Treat it nice and she should last. But be prepared and read up on the 3.4L swap. :thumbsup:

Welcome to The Comanche Club, may I take your order? :D http://travel.nytimes.com/travel/guides ... 4654634270

My sister had a 2000 TJ and never had an issue with that. :thumbsup: I'd thought XJs got a slightly different version than the TJs? Something about courser cut gears in the TJ?

:thumbsup: viewtopic.php?f=2&t=14889

I got to wheel with one of Rick's buddies in Moab and he brought one of his Scouts. This was apparently one of the better condition versions. :shake: It was fun watching it bounce up and down on the body mounts. :D

Rust free, runs and only 500 smackers?! maybe it's a good thing I don't have money or land. :D Not!!

I'm assuming this is a 4.0L wrangler... Bad news: Last year for the AX-15 was 99. :( Good news: that Jeep should have the NV3550, which is even stronger :D Even better News: Yes, it'll go into your Jeep with pretty much the same amount of work as the wrangler AX-15 :thumbsup:

Not really. Ineffectiveness was a big reason why Michigan threw it out the window. There are soooo many ways around the system (like the one you've found). It's just a big scam to get your money.

I would permanently engage the CAD. :thumbsup:

Rear window, doors, windshield, hood, firewall, cowl duct, AC drain, and gaps or holes in floor to name a few. Pretty much any place it could in theory, it could in practice. Best bet is to clear out the carpet and seats, sprinkle baby powder around on the floor around the edges, and use a hose to find the leak. :thumbsup:

Sounds like it's time to replace that rear hood gasket. Or do as I did and squirt a bit of silicone in the gasket to prop it up some. :thumbsup:

I'd get the high alt one. It advances the timing slightly and is good for more power. :D If you find out which is which, let us know. :thumbsup: