Pete M

In my humble opinion it's a waste of money anyways. I just can't see the point unless you're running a spool in the front diff. Don't worry about the front stuff turning. The theoretical fuel savings are minuscule at best. There's a reason Jeep doesn't use any sort of lockout anymore. Just lock the CAD and never look back. :thumbsup: The worst thing that might happen is you may notice if your front driveshaft U-joints are bad.

:no: No one needs to be "that guy". :D Any 4-door Cherokee front doors will work. In like 95 or 96 they changed the door latch style so some minor fab work will be needed to swap out the post on the B-pillar. These guys are doing the door swap: viewtopic.php?f=7&t=14658 viewtopic.php?f=7&t=11834

I tried that on my truck. All it did was ooze oil all over the valve cover and make a big mess. :(

From the factory my Dakota had ~28" tires and 3.92 gears. Haven't blown up anything yet. :D

I tried the little filter idea and oil just got everywhere. :( My "fix" was to run a hose from the valve cover into a gallon washer fluid jug, then another hose running from the jug into the air box. It traps the oil and keeps it out of the filter. But I've heard that a stretched timing chain can cause horrendous blowby. Someday this summer I'll be replacing it to see if it helps. Replacing the chain can't be a bad idea for a 200k engine anyways, so it's no loss if it doesn't work perfectly. :D

TJs.

Then it's not the ballast resistor. When it cuts out, check it for spark and for fuel. That should help narrow it down. :thumbsup:

I'm a big fan of silver. Which is a bit ironic since I don't own a single silver truck. :hmm: But I've only painted one so far. :brows:

When it stalls, does connecting the 2 wires together (bypassing the resistor) get it to run? The resistor is only there to reduce the voltage to the pump and lessen the noise so bypassing it won't hurt anything.

That's a new one by me. :hmm: I'll look into it. What was in the PM and what was the "from" name? And the one peach on my sister's little tree was eaten already. Deer most likely. :fs1:

There is a connector in the rear wire harness located right behind the drivers side rear tire. Corrosion inside can cause all sorts of headaches. :(

I've been meaning to tone down the yellow too. Remind me about it next week when I'm back home and I'll make some adjustments. :thumbsup:

Tech questions should really go in the Tech forum so more people will see them. :thumbsup:

Near the top of the threads, over on the left, you'll see: "Subscribe topic" and "Bookmark Topic". If you want email updates if someone posts, click "subscribe". If not, you can click "bookmark". Now when you go to your "User Control Panel", on the left you'll see "Manage subscriptions" and "Manage bookmarks" which keep track of them all. :thumbsup:

If the front axle has the CAD, and the CAD is functioning properly, and the t-case shifter linkage is properly aligned (meaning it's actually in 2wd, not hanging on to 4wd), then the front driveshaft should not be turning when in 2wd. :D

The stock drag link is reasonably beefy. :dunno: It's that stupid tierod that won't stand up to a swift kick.

As I understand it, the loping cams tend not to make good power at low RPMs (where most Jeeps spend their time). I know my 4-0 would blow up long before it hit 8-10k rpms :D

How far is the span? I've never built one with no rules but the building materials. There was always a limiting factor such as number of toothpicks you can use, or building the lightest bridge that can hold up X number of pounds, etc.

Texas would be a bit out of my way. :D So I've arrived safe and sound. Another 12 hour ride. I'd like to say they get shorter with each drive, but not really. :shake: I get those "signup" emails too. I'll try to make it stop. I think there's a selection in the menus somewhere..... Bo, I'll give ya a call tomorrow.

Those were example photos. The ebay image had a Dodge taillight sitting against a wall.

Automatic word censors are easy. :D Reading every single post every day to keep it all reasonably clean, not so much. :(

I'd go with an Aussie locker and leave the rest as is. I still don't understand why you need a high pinion rear axle. :hmm: It doesn't change the height of the truck at all.

Years ago my stereo was lifted while the truck was at the shop. Inside job. He lifted the key from work, came back at night to thieve my stuff, then returned the key the next day. He might have gotten away with it except that he didn't break anything. Did he think I wasn't going to notice the radio missing when I came to pick up the truck? :doh: Never did figure out what was going through his head. :hmm:

By "HP" are you referring to a High Pinion axle? With 30" tires, your Dana 35 should be fine left stock. I would never condone spending any money on a Dana 35 to "upgrade" it. There are more weak points than the shafts and it's wasted money.

Don't waste the effort replacing them. Rip them out and cap the one that comes out of the engine. Then shift the CAD permanently. Then 4x4 will always work when you want it. :thumbsup: There are a few ways to do it, here's one: http://www.comancheclub.com/forums/view ... 636#p21636