Pete M

Sigh, yeah I saw that it had finally come up. :( But I'm in even less of a position to buy anything than when I first saw it (declaring the big B soon). But if I can land an Engineering gig, I should have loads of extra cash this fall. :D That's the theory at least. :shake:

19-21 (according to the trip comp which means it was even worse). But I could have gotten better if I wasn't tooling along at 70 (running pretty much effortlessly I might add). :D I love that little diesel. :bowdown: I've now pulled the same trailer with similar light loads in it with both the CRD (MI to GA and back) and an 08 Libby with the 3.7 (GA to FL, coming back was loaded to the gills so that doesn't really count) and the CRD and its older platform just outperformed the newer stuff, hands down. :dunno:

Have you been looking at donor XJs too? For what it's worth, for a straight 4wd conversion, I'd go to the junkyards. 3.07 gears suck. Find an AX-15 and some 3.55 geared axles and you'll be much happier. :thumbsup:

I would focus more on diagnosing the problem. If it is a bad engine block, there are tests that can verify that. Don't go swapping engines willy-nilly.

No, you shouldn't be. But your post kinda made it sound like you were so I wanted to be certain. :D Bleeding an internal can be a real pain in the butt. I've never had the privilege of doing it, so all I can say is keep at it. :thumbsup: If it's anything like when I was bleeding the brakes of my 90, it might take a while. :(

I wouldn't even do that if I didn't think I needed the strength of the bigger joints. It's super easy to simply open the cover, slide the locking collar on the axle shaft over to the "lock" position, retain it using any one of the various ways people have figured out, then put the cover back on and remove all the vacuum lines (making sure to cap them at their source).Done and done. :thumbsup:

It might be important to at least diagnose the problem. Swapping in a whole new engine wouldn't fix, say, a fuel pump issue. It could be as simple as a bad ground on the engine block or corrosion in a wire.

Eliminating the CAD won't put you into 4wd. That will always be controlled by your t-case shifter. :thumbsup:

Rear axle is the essentially the same Dana 35, only with different brackets welded on. Keep in mind that it's still just a Dana 35. Front can be converted if you weld on XJ/MJ stuff (might be tough with the YJ CAD mount). Unless you're capable of doing a gear set-up, you might want to re-think trying to swap gears yourself. It's not as easy as just bolting them in (it can cost between 100 and 300 per axle to get it done right). You can sell the pair and put them towards an Explorer 8.8 and an MJ/XJ Dana 30 with 4.10s already in them.

AX-15 on the left, Peugeot on the right. Note the line of bolts on the top (and on the bottom) that split the Peugeot into a left and right half.

I've seen poly "SUV" boxes at the hardware store. I bought the larger size for my MJ, but they had smaller ones.

Ford radius arms ftw!. :D

It's not so much an "upgrade" as it is a fix for bad engineering. :D That much wattage should really be routed though a relay.

Bad uni-bearing? Have you jacked up a tire and checked for slop?

As far as I know, the YJs roughly mirrored the MJs with inline 6 manual transmissions year to year (even though the YJs never got the 4.0 renix).

Yesterday the message said that the phone had been disconnected. Today it's back in service apparently :hmm: and I left a new message.

Quality and customer service issues aside, it's still not a "kit" until they include the drop brackets or longer control arms into the package. It's only part of a kit. Stock lower arms should not be used above 2" of lift and stock uppers should not be used above about 4". The arms won't be long enough to center the tire or correct caster.

If it was me, I'd probably also change the belts and antifreeze if they were older. Maybe the radiator hoses too.

Are you bleeding the slave with the engine running?

Did you get the truck aligned? There's more to a lift than springs and shocks. Control arms, sway bar drops/links, track bar, brake lines, etc. are all very important

You're very welcome. :thumbsup:

The engine is supposed to be sucking the fumes out through that hole with the breather filter.

My brain is telling me that the early years had a different diameter input shaft (took a different pilot bearing). :hmm:

Finally made it home. :banana: The libby pulled like a champ, but that huge enclosed trailer is just a gigantic sail and the mpgs were pretty pathetic. :shake: Oh well. I'm going to bed now. Tomorrow is a long day of unpacking. :doh:

Yeah, but he was trying. :yes: Waaaay different than "accidentals".