Pete M

CAD fix: viewtopic.php?f=9&t=18415 AX-15 on the left, BA-10 on the right. note the line of bolts that split the BA-10 into a left and right half.

4.0 + auto = 3.55 gears 4.0 + stick = 3.07 gears 2.5L + 4spd stick = 3.55 gears (usually) 2.5L + 5spd stick = 4.10 gears (usually)

I gotta run out the door, but my quick thoughts: t-case drop kit isn't needed on MJs. Sway bar extended links are better than drop brackets (especially if your truck is rusty underneath since the bolts like to snap right off. AALs and extended shackles aren't exactly the best way to lift the rear. longer flexy brake lines are superior to bending the old hard lines.

time-outs will never be announced.

Rear axles suffer from wear and tear all the time when driving, front axles only when in 4wd. When offroad, weight transfer during acceleration or when driving uphill shifts a good deal of the stress to the rear axle. Throughout history, trucks have typically had heavier duty rear axles than front.

98/99. must be 4wd with the Saginaw type box. It has a bigger diameter piston. http://www.universityofjeep.ca/Tech/Dur ... rsion.html

86 is pretty much a "look and see" model year. the 87+ rules of thumb don't seem to apply anymore. :(

when it comes to the 2.5L, the 86 and 87 model years are pretty much identical to 88-90. :thumbsup: 91 and 92 got the better MPI fuel delivery.

99 Durango steering box and a new ps pump are an option too. :thumbsup:

The original front u-joints on my '88 XJ lasted approximately 275,000 miles, and that includes wheeling at Paragon in PA, the Mohawk Trail region of MA, a secret trail (now closed) in RI, and some puttering around on fire roads and such in New Mexico. Greasable?

If your current clutch master is in good shape, you can adapt the clutch line to the new slave's clutch line. I've done it twice now. And on my 90 I had about that much slave line left as I see in your photo. I just cut it so it was straight and finagled the old line to match up, then used a 1/4" to 5/16" compression fitting I got from the hardware store. This photo is of my 88 (which had lots more of the plastic line left)

the Explorer 8.8 is 5/8" narrower on each side

There's a huge difference between the TJ/YJ shifter and the XJ/MJ shifter. You'll want the MJ/XJ variety. :thumbsup:

strapping to any part of the suspension is a bad idea, always has, always will.

neither. you need the 304 v8.

I wouldn't go higher than 2" with stock arms, brake lines, swaybar links etc.

Go with the early 70s. :thumbsup:

Can you guess at the measurement with a tape measure? How close is it to fitting? real close or not close at all? Can you snap a photo of the input shaft? Don't forget to use the "macro" setting on the camera if it has one.

What are your 2 measurements?

The dana 44 and the lift should balance each other out pretty well. :thumbsup:

Go here and start reading. :D http://www.lostjeeps.com/forum/phpBB3/v ... d2be5941f6 05s suffered from most of the weird issues (like the torque converter), but be prepared that there are different regular maintenance items for the little diesel. The biggest on my mind is the timing belt is a 100k replacement and it is neither easy nor cheap. I'm waiting til it warms up before tackling it in our 06. parts can be hard to come by and those that you can find are expensive. Motor mounts and blown turbo hoses are common issues. Do your homework and find a competent diesel mechanic to take it to should the need arise. Don't just assume your local Jeep dealership can handle it. Be prepared that oil changes are expensive. top o' the line Mobil 1 stuff all around. If you trade, look into the V6 air filter box swap. The diesel filter box just lets in all the crap on the road. Haven't needed a new filter since I did that mod. :D Oh, and get the bigger oil filter. In my mind, fuel economy is not a good enough reason to take on a diesel. Diesel is more expensive and can be surprisingly hard to find sometimes when out on the road (especially late at night or out in the boonies).

you could just swap between the 2 you've got. That would eliminate the variables since the flasher one is known to work.

they are both the same size, but not necessarily yellow. might even be bare aluminum. IIRC, one of them is tucked up near the top of the panel.

be very selective about which ones you buy. They are prone to wallowing out the pivot hole and that causes whistling, leaks, and the desire to swap them back out for the solid windows.

It's a light duty axle, plain and simple. And for most of us, it's an old light duty axle which exacerbates potential problems. There's plenty that can (and does) go wrong. It's true that there are a gazillion of them out there, still going "strong", but it's the failures that happen for seemingly no particular reason that scare me the most. :ack: