Pete M

Do you have a "macro" setting on your camera?

It'd be a lot of work, but I'd probably swap back to stock to see if anything changes. :(

For the price of locking hub conversion, you could buy a bunch of unit bearings. :D In my opinion there's nothing wrong with unit bearings, it's mostly just that the bearings in our trucks are 20 years old.

Do you have a "macro" setting on your camera"?

they look like this. They are my favorite Jeep rim ever. :D

spring rate and shock valving are huge contributors to ride quality too.

pull back the carpet edges and look for moisture/rust. Check for rust beginning on the lower edge of the door, the underside of the rockers, and up inside the bedsides.

You couldn't pay me to take an f150 with the 4.6L. :ack: My uncle had one and it couldn't get out of its own way. load it up with 1000 pounds of pavers and suddenly I'd rather have had my 86 MJ for that job.

brake lines look awfully straight in this photo. :(

If the shocks or brake lines are the limiting factor, that's bad. :(

If the shocks are bad, you should replace them regardless of this problem.

The way to get more flex is to find out what's limiting it. shocks? control arms? stiff coils?

Early 90s v6 Camaro/firebird or S-10 should have the 3.4/3.1 in it. You'll need to add in a small electric fuel pump, as the later engines do not have a boss for the mechanical unit. It's just a carb though, so you don't need a high pressure pump (like for EFI).

There's a thread in the DIY section about switching transmissions types. :thumbsup:

Can't hurt, but the steering stabilizer is all that important. It didn't even come on all MJs.

replace your shocks and see what happens. It could be that your rear tires are bouncing up and down.

amen. Atlanta has a lot of that too. You guys are funny with all your complaining. :D Swing by Detroit sometime and get off the freeways for a bit. When I'm in the big D, I slow down and look both ways for green lights. :ack:

1 3/4" is pretty much an industry standard in spacers. Never have figured out why anyone chose that particular number. :dunno: The control arm rub happens whenever the steering is cranked all the way and at any droop/compression height. WJ arms will cure that, or you can add a washer behind the steering stops (essentially increasing your turning radius) or as Eagle likes to say: just don't turn the wheel all the way. :D how bad it is depends on your choice of tire. The stock control arms have a little ledge right where it contacts the tire and the noise will increase dramatically with tires that have a more aggressive tread in the corner edge.

The one I speak of may not be on the site yet. It's made from a new MJ main leaf and is as long as any AAL can be. :D edit: found the thread in the for sale section: viewtopic.php?f=24&t=19998

HellCreek has an AAL that gives about an inch or so too.

I'm of no help. those wires (and all the other ones) are long missing from my 86. :(

A "body lift" raises the body up above the frame. Since our trucks are half-unibody, that type of lift won't work. A "suspension lift" raises up the entire body/frame together.

Been there, done that. with my truck it turned out to be slop in the track bar.

One of the tricks to removing the upper half is to carefully loosen up the rest of the main caps to give a small amount of wiggle room. Make sure you know the torque specs and tightening sequence for the mains.

looks like the photo gremlins snatched them away. :dunno: