ComancheBSJ90

Thanks to all for sharing the wealth on knowledge. I decided to not put any unnecessary stress on my window installers and continue to use the metal trim, but mine being in poor shape I wanted to buy new black metal trim. I've made call after call and word is is that they don't make it anymore. Is there a place on the Internet that you know I could order it from? I live in Canada, but any suggestions would be helpful... Yes I already searched Ebay, Thanks again :) This message is for those who had ordered new metal trim, other wise I will do my research and post the results or give up and go plastic.

On a 1989 Jeep Comanche. I was interested in swapping the metal trim for the plastic used on XJs. Can some one tell me what year XJ is compatible with my truck. For those who had converted, is it worth the hassles to try to convince the glass people that it can be done. And do I just need the rubber trim from the XJ or is there other hardware from the XJ that I also need? Part Numbers!!! Thanks in advance for sharing the knowledge :D

If I were to use it, my setup would be exactly like yours. I plugged it in and tested it with a multimeter and it looks to be working, although I could not use the other square connector as a test port. Maybe NOT interchangeable, but why do you guys say that an Automatic Trans. TPS could not be used on a Standard? It does produce a smooth voltage reading from Zero V. to 5 V. and it does fit. Just curious on the big NO, Thanks.

While at the junk yard I grabbed a couple TPS sensors from automatics. On my manual 5 speed the TPS only has one connector, whereas the ones I grabbed have 2 connectors. These two connectors look as though they are piggy backed together inside the TPS (same number & color of wires). I want to know If I can use these TPS sensors on my truck and if I can set up the TPS by using that extra connector to dock my multimeter. My wire harness does connect to one of those two connectors. Thanks again for any suggestions, you guys are a great help!

Thanks for your quick reply. I've been reading that aftermarket masters are junk. This one is a Girling 75 A 74661049 Is this original stock, it looks really new. thanks

My 1989 jeep Comanche clutch master cylinder is leaking on the fuse box. When at the junk yard I grabbed one from a Jeep Cherokee which I do not know the year but it is the full cast metal one that looks to be for 1991 and newer models. I have the one with the plastic cup and wanted to know if they were interchangeable? Thanks

The Link you referenced is for Bosch Part #0280150943 Injectors, not the Ford! Or are they the same injector? Click on the link in this post I made earlier. The injectors are Ford Motorsport injectors and are used in many applications, not just Mustangs. The link that I provided is the injectors that are needed for the '87 - '95 4.0L Jeep. :cheers:

Hello you guys, gals. if I order those Precision Auto Injectors, for my Comanche, are the 87-95 Jeep Cherokee Comanche Wrangler 4.0L Injectors the same thing as orange Ford Mustang injectors. If they are not should I order the jeep injectors or the mustang injectors? thanks again

OK. I'll buy distilled water, good coolant, pH test strips, baking soda, and my new radiator, flush the system till I can drink it, then retest and hopefully my results will be closer to hornbrods' Yes, the H20 I was using was tap water and coolant was from Canadian Tire.

Dammit, but thanks for the heads up

I did check the coolant with the positive cable removed from battery and I get about 0.56 volts. Also, with the positive battery cable removed if I put the negative end of DVM in coolant and positive end on + battery terminal I get 12.70 volts, close to what I get if I test the battery for voltage. If the radiator is isolated from the truck electrical ground what good is it if the coolant grounds it anyway, as noted above? There are two leaks on right/left side of rad. where the small coolant channels enter the tank both at the top. Pin holes with white-ish corrosion. I assume then that if electrolysis is creating a 0.56 volt and with the battery connected I get 0.64 volts then I have 0.12 stray current or maybe the battery strengthens the reaction. Research I did, some say under .5volts is acceptable others say anything over 0.05volts is unacceptable. man, this is confusing me. I think then I will get the new rad, flush the system out, install, then retest!

I was curious on what the normal is for stray current being present in our MJ's cooling system, and what likely will cause these currents and prevention or reducing stray current. With a DVM when I put the positive lead in my over flow tank submersed in coolant and ground the negative lead to block I get 0.64 Volts, ignition ON&OFF. If I put one lead of DVM to radiator housing and other to block I get 0.23 Volts, ignition ON&OFF. My new radiator is already leaking after 2 months from this electrolysis and I need to lower this stray current before I replace under warranty. I suspect the radiator guys with test for Stray current seeing how it started leaking so fast and tell me... sorry... Are there any ground straps that are known issues. Please you guys, it's an easy test with DVM or Analog volt meter test with ignition ON & OFF.

Alright, I admit I was heading north, so took your advise and moved south. I cleaned all the bulb sockets and redid the ground point with no change. I noticed the fuse panel had DOT 3 oil contaminating the fuse connections, and sprayed it out real good. Put in the 15Amp tail light fuse and instant success. I believe it was the combined cleaning that made this work. Thanks for all the suggestions, that was great.

I thought it was the switch but after testing the new and old switch they both tested continuous with closed circuit. ---Sorry I'm a little hammed--- I get 11.75volts with ignition ON at switch wires. I traced the large wire bundle out through fire wall, from the cab, to front drivers head light. Noticed slight coolant leak through new radiator on side where wire bundle goes to head light. Had a brain wave about in certain conditions that radiator could act like an electric cell and corrode itself as a by product... due to electrical short. Researched the net... no results. Put negative end of volt meter to radiator and positive to any ground point in engine compartment and I get 0.23 VOLTS, ignition ON or OFF. My Instrument panel fuse blows out on high engine load, loosing dash lights. I had a theory that that wire bundle is grounding out as it traverses the front of truck, but then would not I need put the positive lead of voltmeter to rad and neg to block to get positive reading? Hammered... I mean confused. Any suggesting would be great as I'm off tomorrow and would love to get this figured out. thanks

I have stock rims/tires if anything I might upgrade to 16" rims, but that's a long shot. It must be that HO motor you have in your 94. My shift points don't come close to yours. Now I need to see my RPM values if I were to drive like you.... test drive.... If I were to drive: 15mph in 3rd rpm 600 25-30 in 4th rpm 800-1200 35-40 in 5th rpm 800-1200 It may be do-able but in 3rd gear the engine would be lugging! Normally I drive: 1 gear to 12.5mph @ 2000rpm 2 gear to 25mph @ 2000rpm 3 gear to 38mph @ 2000rpm 4 gear to 50mph @ 2000rpm 5 gear to 62+mph @ 2000rpm Are you driving like that to save gas?