Pete M

yes. block and heads are like 98% the same externally. :thumbsup: see this page: http://www.lunghd.com/Tech_Articles/Pro ... ect_XJ.htm

very nice :D

core charge will be $30+ per caliper on the 8.8

and try real hard to get the flange bolts and calipers with the axle. the core charge on the calipers is insane. but the flange bolts are available from Ford. Do not use anything but the ford bolts. they are metric and very strong.

you might be able to pick upa whole car for the price of a junkyard motor. then you'd have everything associated with the wiring and can still part out the car and haul off the rest for scrap.

I don't believe it matters which year of 3.4/3.1 if you're using just the block. are you swapping just the block or the entire wire harness to get the fuel injection?

which 8.8? there are a dozen different 8.8s out there. Ford threw it under everything from crown vics, to aerostars to the IRS explorers (uses an 8.8 center section). all have varying widths and bolt patterns. The one you'll be looking for are under 95-01 Explorers (right bolt pattern, nearly the right width, disk brakes). don't get a 3.73 unless you have a plan for matching in the front.

don't think so. I've never seen it on a factory-paint MJ myself, but I've seen it on plenty of MJs that were touched up. right above the rear flares is prone to rotting from the inside-out.

you can try both cleaning the CPS as well as unplugging it and cleaning up the terminals inside the connector. the CPS sends a pretty weak signal anyways and anything that degrades that signal will cause the computer to wait longer until it's absolutely positive of the location of the engine before firing.

if a dent is properly repaired, then all is good. :D a fridge magnet will not hold through much bondo and so will show if the fix was a hack job (as seems to be the norm for above the rear flares and the rockers). :thumbsup:

peal back the carpet and check for moisture/rust/funny smells.

have you tried using explorer? sometimes one browser will have issues when the other one won't. that would at least help narrow down where the problem lies.

tough call. :dunno: looks like a fun yet useful driver as-is.

I welded my rollbar to a bracket that was in turn welded to a plate that was welded to the frame. The plate spreads out the load on what is really just sheetmetal. and my rocker guards (which actually go through the frame and are welded to plates on both sides):

thanks guys. it was for my bro-in-law's truck, but the tires are sold so it's all moot. :(

is he giving your Jeep a "low-5"? (as opposed to a high-five)

anyone know if JK 16" rims are the same bolt pattern/backspacing as a 05+ dodge dakota?

good catch! I saw the double 'm' misspelling on a Comanche front fender in the junkyard by me, 8 inches from the emblem. :rotfl2:

Pics? :rotf:

I may (or may not) be up for that first weekend, so if anything's going to happen, I guess Sunday or Monday would be preferred (I'd be kinda busy on Saturday). :D

make a bed for the backend.

The WJ weighs more. a lot more. base XJs weigh around 3000. base WJs weigh in at nearly 3800. now, having said that, our CRD Liberty is limited to 5k and it a base Libby weighs around 3800 in bare trim. ask yourself why the KJ got the short straw... :dunno:

don't know how they get by. :dunno: I have a minispool up front (in my ford 44) and have run 3wheel (and one-wheel) before but never more than short distances. giving it gas turns the steering wheel one way, letting off the gas turns it the other. I'm not talking about a gentle lean, I mean it turns the wheel. there's no way I'd do that on a street with traffic. but I guess results may vary.

didn't witness it doing it. :D