Pete M

disk brake conversion ftw! or check out jeffsbroncograveyard.com I bet they have some of the old hardware.

have you tried setting the arm at different angles?

how old are the spark plug wires?

Pete; What's the width and bolt pattern for the mid 90s v6 Isuzu D44? EDIT: Never mind, found out. It's 1.5 inches narrower and has 6-lug axles. Could work with spacers and redrilling the axles. yup, it matches the grand waggy front dana 44, not our MJ front dana 30. :thumbsup:

the last 2 Rodeo rears I've bought didn't need anything. :D

whoops. :doh: that's what I get for having multiple posts open at once. :shake: bottom line, I'd shoot for 4.10s with 31s, but 3.73 will be good also. Ive got 3.55s with 31s in my 90 and it drives just fine for a street truck. :D

do the trannys behind those 4 bangers have simlilar gear ratios? i was hoping to get at least some sort of a performance benefit from them as in stock gear and tire size vs. 3.73 or 4.10 and 31"s. what was the stock tire size anyway? shouldnt i have 3.09 stock gears with my combo of 4.0/ax15? yes they have similar gearing. I think what you're experiencing is simply "different" than what you're used to and not anything necessarily bad. :thumbsup: just gotta drive it more so your shift patterns adjust.

I've seen it in person. It's a comanche. It's a really really fast Comanche :D dasbulliwagen is just jealous. :yes:

I'd have no problem running 4.10s with 31s. stock 4bangers came with 4.10s and puny tires and I've never thought of them as extreme.

bandaid? tires are a part of your overall ratio and should be in any calculations. :thumbsup: 30x9.5s on 3.55s worked great for me. I hope you're not trying to make a car out of a truck. :hmm:

Jeepcoma, what size tires are you running?

a mid 90s v6 Rodeo will have a rear Dana 44 to match that jeep front 44 and it comes with disks and either 4.10 or 4.31 gears.

grab a phone book and look for steel supply companies. I got my 1x4 bar stock from the same place that cut it for me.

how did you bleed the air?

axles are not a good recovery point (and no, that's not me)

45* is way too much. the coil buckets would then lean backwards and the coils would follow suit. I had to go look up what I used. from my photo account: I'll draw a picture when I get back home later today so it's more clear.

might just need new bearings. :dunno: I've read that any 2.5L AMC lower block from 84-04 (or whenever they switched to the 2.4) can be swapped in with minimal effort. :thumbsup:

low compression? rod knock? and welcome! :waving:

get a straw from a wd40 can and put it on a pb blaster can. stick the straw up in there as best you can and be sure to have eye protection. then get yourself an appropriately sized brass punch and wail on it. :D

google gave it to me. :yes:

The Ford radius arms (which you have modified versions) are designed to be parallel to the ground when under a stock late 70s ford truck. When you lift the truck and angle the arm downward, the coil bucket goes with it. and since the coil is bolted to the bucket, the base points forward and bows the coil. My solution was to make a pair of steel wedges the lean the coil bucket back. Wasn't especially hard or expensive. I had a local shop cut 2 steel bars in half on their big bandsaw and then I drilled the holes. and in case you're wondering how I bolted that up, the cut bar gave me 2 wedges each, with matching angles. one went under the coil bucket, the other got trimmed to size and went inside the bucket so that the bolts had a flat place to tighten down on. lower wedge: upper wedge: before wedges: after wedges: That lean you're experiencing might be due to improper tightening of the radius arm bolts (the ones that pull the 2 halves together around the axle). If done one side completely and then the other, the arms can twist your truck to one side. somewhere online I saw the proper procedure for that spelled out. haven't needed it in years though, so I'd have to hunt it down again. make yourself familiar with some older ford sites. I like fullsizebronco.com also jeffsbroncograveyard.com has lots of useful parts for sale. also, in order to get any decent flex, you'll want to cut off the stock lca brackets to get them out of the way and dump those poly C-bushings for some old rubber ones. but after you do that, you'll need to get the bumpstops properly positioned to get from eating the fenders or shocks. they'll need to point to the side slightly to keep from hitting the coils and to hit the coil bucket squarely upon compression.

ahhh, so you're running the ford arms, eh? :brows: I don't have time to do it this second, but later tonight I'll explain how I worked that issue out on my truck. :thumbsup:

if you have a T in the fittings, then someone removed the prop valve. If nothing else is found to be wrong, I'd look into an aftermarket prop valve for adjusting the rears. factory unit:

did you use one of these?