Pete M

from what I can tell, the photos that don't work are huge and exceed the limits in the forum. can you link to a smaller version of them?

:bowdown:

photos? videos? :brows:

Quick update. I had my meeting with the code enforcer's boss. gave me a lot of runaround and wishy-washy talk but I didn't really think I'd get much more out of him. I just wanted to get across that they need to either write me up for a legitimate gripe, or leave me alone. Haven't heard anything since. :dunno:

come on. someone has to have something... :dunno:

Pete, Maybe its time you update and remind us of the parking wars story. Has anything changed that brought you to this decision? good point. I should probably dig that back up. all that's happened lately is I talked with the code enforcer's boss. Didn't get much more than "I'll look into it" from him. :dunno:

are the explorer cables long enough?

All I'm going to say is a 5 inch "kit" without control arms or drop brackets is not a kit, that's half a kit, and is just a scam to drop the price. plan on buying longer arms or their drop brackets.

Just a quick reminder for everyone to make sure you are also updating your project thread too. :thumbsup: My update: nothing. absolutely nothing. And on purpose this time. :D I'm never readjusting the parking spots of the trucks again. If the city is truly serious that I'm doing something wrong by parking my plated/insured trucks on private property with the property owner's permission, then bring it on. :fs1: only a court decision will make me cave.

the only justifiable limitations on vehicular collections are money and space. and I've shown that even a lack of space can't stop a real diehard. :D

fwiw, our liberty has almost no resistance shifting into high range. :dunno:

behind the drivers side taillight. there are 4 screws holding the taillight housing in place.

whoops, that should have read "would contact", not "wouldn't contact". crawling around in the dark, I get about 9" from tank to axle in my shortbed. Not exactly much of a comfort margin. plus with all the differences here and there (hangers, fill spout), I think you'll be better off with a new tank. To the best of my knowledge, no one has yet installed a 23.5 in a shortbed.

I seem to remember someone said the bigger tank would contact the rear axle.

make sure you guys also lube the lift struts. One of them stuck a bit on my 97 and it ended up snapping off the lower mounting stud on the body. NOT an easy fix. :(

early years of longbeds had 16 standard and the 23.5 optional. shortbeds were all 18. Maybe your fuel gauge or fuel float isn't working perfectly anymore. :dunno:

'cause as we all know, the worst thing about getting old is having to downsize your bike slightly. :rotf:

dad's '06 awd Libby CRD. I love that Jeep. :D My sister's old TJ. she doesn't own it anymore, but I haven't been able to use it in a thread in a while so here it is. :yes: She owned a Libby too, but I've not yet found a photo of it. :dunno: My half-an-XJ. still in the garage awaiting engine transplant into the 88 MJ. :shake:

MJ/XJ/TJ/ZJ/YJ/KJ all share the same 5 on 4.5" with roughly 5.25" of backspacing

:banana: :banana: :cheers: :bowdown: I knew it sounded like a clogged cat. But there's no way I coulda guessed a peeling manifold. :hmm:

Yours works for non-CAD rigs and works to check t-case operation, but I have a feeling his issue is a crappy CAD so I just wanted to make sure that got added in. :thumbsup:

forgot to do my 86. :doh: 1- wired in the brake pedal switch (original owner had the brakes on a push button) 2- wired up a switch for the wipers 3- reintroduced the speedometer into the truck and duct taped it to the steering column.

how does your competition do it? If they are sliding through the turns, then you just need more practice. :thumbsup: what gears/locker are you running? an open diff and crappy gears will lessen your ability to break traction on command.

it's a resistor designed to lessen the voltage getting to the pump and so lessening the noise of the pump. It eats electricity and will get warm. But there's a limit on how hot it's supposed to get. A quick way to check it's condition is to pull the wires and connect them directly together (you won't hurt anything, 86/87s don't even have it). If there's any change in the truck, you can replace the resistor (they are cheap)

how are your 110 competition getting around the corners?