Pete M

whoops, that should have read "would contact", not "wouldn't contact". crawling around in the dark, I get about 9" from tank to axle in my shortbed. Not exactly much of a comfort margin. plus with all the differences here and there (hangers, fill spout), I think you'll be better off with a new tank. To the best of my knowledge, no one has yet installed a 23.5 in a shortbed.

I seem to remember someone said the bigger tank would contact the rear axle.

make sure you guys also lube the lift struts. One of them stuck a bit on my 97 and it ended up snapping off the lower mounting stud on the body. NOT an easy fix. :(

early years of longbeds had 16 standard and the 23.5 optional. shortbeds were all 18. Maybe your fuel gauge or fuel float isn't working perfectly anymore. :dunno:

'cause as we all know, the worst thing about getting old is having to downsize your bike slightly. :rotf:

dad's '06 awd Libby CRD. I love that Jeep. :D My sister's old TJ. she doesn't own it anymore, but I haven't been able to use it in a thread in a while so here it is. :yes: She owned a Libby too, but I've not yet found a photo of it. :dunno: My half-an-XJ. still in the garage awaiting engine transplant into the 88 MJ. :shake:

MJ/XJ/TJ/ZJ/YJ/KJ all share the same 5 on 4.5" with roughly 5.25" of backspacing

:banana: :banana: :cheers: :bowdown: I knew it sounded like a clogged cat. But there's no way I coulda guessed a peeling manifold. :hmm:

Yours works for non-CAD rigs and works to check t-case operation, but I have a feeling his issue is a crappy CAD so I just wanted to make sure that got added in. :thumbsup:

forgot to do my 86. :doh: 1- wired in the brake pedal switch (original owner had the brakes on a push button) 2- wired up a switch for the wipers 3- reintroduced the speedometer into the truck and duct taped it to the steering column.

how does your competition do it? If they are sliding through the turns, then you just need more practice. :thumbsup: what gears/locker are you running? an open diff and crappy gears will lessen your ability to break traction on command.

it's a resistor designed to lessen the voltage getting to the pump and so lessening the noise of the pump. It eats electricity and will get warm. But there's a limit on how hot it's supposed to get. A quick way to check it's condition is to pull the wires and connect them directly together (you won't hurt anything, 86/87s don't even have it). If there's any change in the truck, you can replace the resistor (they are cheap)

how are your 110 competition getting around the corners?

Not sure if 6" less wheelbase is really the answer. :dunno: what's in the rear diff? welded? locker? gear ratio?

the difference in weight between a SB and LB is all of 88 lbs. :dunno:

Keep all those records! :bowdown: It'd be awesome to have all those numbers (once it's running right of course) so other members can reference them in the future.

Just because it's the "easiest", doesn't make it outright easy. Any conversion is hard. You'll need a real 4x4 shop to do all that custom work.

:dunno: all I did was click on that first link, rightclick on the photo for the "copy link location", posted that here, highlighted it, and clicked the IMG tag. I've never used the pre-made addresses that any photo service provides. I always rightclick directly on the photo. :thumbsup:

checked the timing?

what about testing the sensor outputs at the computer? maybe something is wrong with the wire harness that's causing the computer do screw up.

have you tested the fuel flow rate? pressure is one thing, but if there's not enough flow the engine will run lean.

how many miles? original timing chain?

fuel filter? bad gas?

clogged cat?

I never did writeup. :oops: I'll see what I can do when I get a chance.