Pete M

you might want those spacers regardless of wheel choice. even with a stock MJ axle, the bed is wider than the front.

TJ rims stick out 1" more than the regular 15x7s since they are 15x8. :D wheel spacers in the rear will make the rear match the front.

Welcome to the club! :waving: just expect that the rust will come back. Huculiner will simply mask the growing problem. paint will immediately show you any bubbling spots. Probably the best will be POR-15, which chemically bonds to the surface to prevent oxygen from getting to the steel. But even then, rust in the seams can exist. I hate rust. :(

A piece of advice from a relative newbie to this, I would not throw away the donor until you are 100% complete with your swap. you never know what little part you are going to need. Having my donor beside mine while the swap was going on was invaluable :agree: x eleventybillion

new ones are available on ebay.

paint is cheap. :D

I only buy used tires anymore. that's 300 worth of tires/rims right there:

TJ canyons. may favorite rim ever. 15x8 with "jeep" backspacing.

:agree:

some peugeot to aw4 conversion info here: viewtopic.php?f=9&t=12206 posi lock opinions here: viewtopic.php?f=2&t=24146 and welcome to the club! :waving:

nope, sorry. the ford is a high pinion, the chevy is low. the gears are cut in opposite directions.

is picturetrail.com blocked? they have a free-host version too.

the 2.8 would never pass emissions. shame too.

as someone that's been puttering his wheeler around on a single front tire for a while now (ford front axle with spool and I have only one hub locked), I can explain that one. When power is applied, the torque-steer is incredible and will turn the steering wheel in my hands. then, when I let off the gas, the reverse happens and the truck tries to turn the other way. not fun. When in 4wd, the effect is lessened. But more to the point, I HATE MY FRONT MINISPOOL!!! straight-line traction is nice (as you might guess), but as soon as I turn the wheel, I hate it. If there's enough traction (you'd be surprised how often that happens on an otherwise slippery looking muddy trail), the steering wheel simply won't turn. (and if everything's bound up that tight, your posi-lock might not release. I know my hubs are a real pain to unlock). If everything is really slippery, the wheel will turn, but the truck won't always turn. Nothing like plowing in a perfectly straight line when you're trying to do doughnuts in the mud. At first opportunity I'm dumping it for a regular locker. (It'd be in there already if those tiny hub bolts hadn't rust-welded themselves in.)

tech Qs should really go in the tech forum. more guys will see it and then it'll all be in the database for future searches. :thumbsup:

be very, very careful when moving parts around in the engine bay. well meaning owners have caused themselves all sorts of headaches from flexing 20 year old wires and other plastic parts that have become brittle over the decades. make extra sure you got all of the pan bolts. :thumbsup:

bummer man. :( but at least you know how bad it is and can fix it up before it gets even worse. :D tech questions should really go in the tech forum so more people will see it and also so that it'll be in the database for future searches. :thumbsup:

welcome to the club! :waving: tech questions should really go in the tech forum. More people will see it and also then it'll be in the database for future searches. :cheers:

on my computer it's: [fn]-[prt sc] ("function" - "print screen") Then I paste it into MS Paint, save as a file, then upload to picturetrail so I can post it here. But I'm way to lazy for all that since my photo was already uploaded to picturetrail. :D

...you drive 145 miles one way to attempt to rescue an MJ you've never seen, that doesn't work, and that may or may not still be there. :bowdown: jim ...heck, if you even contemplated that sort of insane plan and started rationalizing it in your head.

Don't fear the rpms. :D Freeway speed and vehicle design FAR outweigh rpms when it comes to mpgs. most of the energy used at 70 mph is used to push the air out of the way. Think of it as the engine needs x amount of power to push through the air at Y speed. rpms matter little in the equation since the engine will consume about the same amount of gas to accomplish the same task (pushing a brick along at 70mph), whether at 2500 or at 3500 rpms. There is a sweet spot (usually the torque peak), but it's a big sweet spot since our trucks have a large flat torque curve. :D

I've seen photos, so it's around. ask in the Tech forum and I'm sure someone will know where to find it. All you need are the little U-bolts and a drill bit.

the stock posi sucks and should not be considered a reason to retain a Dana 35. :thumbsup:

It is possible to drill out the flange and install U-bolts in their place. No more straps. :D