Pete M

the bumper stickers don't require the same level of resolution as decals. just a high quality jpeg. we might want to use a better condition emblem for that though. Something I know I don't have. :D

That might make for a sweet bumper sticker. string it all together in the same line and make it look just like the MJ emblem emblem. :clapping: Maybe even an 86 version?

whoops! :doh: you are correct. :thumbsup: not sure why I was thinking 289.

:( to some people, pets are pets. to me, they are family. and it's always hard to lose family. :(

Yup. nothing they did could get the 289 to keep up with that 440. big-blocks ftw! :D best lookin' mustang ever though. just needed some more horses.

I wanna see it! all I get is an error message. :(

holy crap! :eek:

Watching "Bullitt" just now and started thinking about other chase scenes in cinematography. What are your favorites? I've got a thing for the parking structure chase in "Tomorrow Never Dies". Bond cars are the best. Oh, and there's "Bullitt" of course, the grand pappy of the modern chase. :D :popcorn:

Don't think of it as clutter. If you break it up into different topics, it makes it that much easier for future owners to find the answers in searches. :thumbsup:

you might want to start new threads for new questions. It helps get answers since a lot of guys will just skim the titles and look for questions they can answer. :thumbsup:

I don't know about that. mine tend to get better looking as darkness approaches. :yes:

is it a stick? is he maybe confusing the reservoir of the clutch with the reservoir of the brakes?

You're thinking of XJ control arm frame mounts. MJ mounts have a huge reinforcement brace and don't suffer from anything like that. :thumbsup: It's a truck, not a station wagon. :yes: If you bend up a control arm, it can break plenty of other things along with it depending on what you were doing at the time. Stock arms are for stock Jeeps (and even that is iffy).

quick vocab lesson... your truck is incapable of "full-time 4wd". that particular phrase is associated with systems that allow 4wd use on dry pavement. Yours is a "part-time 4wd" where you should not use 4wd on anything but slippery surfaces (gravel, dirt, snow, etc). that all being said, the t-case lever controls 2wd-4wd. :thumbsup: as long as it is in 2wd, your truck is in 2wd. The CAD controls whether or not the front wheels get anything from the t-case after you've shifted the t-case into 4wd. Jeep eventually did away with the CAD system completely in the early 90s. It didn't give any measurable improvements in anything and was a pain in the butt to keep working properly. One thing that may pop up after locking the CAD is vibrations from your front driveshaft if the U-joints are bad. But if they are bad, you should be replacing them anyways. :D

the 5.9 is prone to pinging. My Dakota was supposedly able to run 89, but even after the dealership reflashed the computer it'll still ping a small amount on anything less than 91 during hard acceleration. I guess it's sorta a pay-to-play thing, but since the difference is like 10 bucks per tank, I have learned to accept it.

me--> :D

The Explorer pack sits a bit lower than even a 2wd MJ (which is about 1" lower than a 4wd MJ). Just be sure to reuse your current main leaf (explorer mains are off center by a bit) and drill it out for the explorer's larger centering bolt. I would go the extra step and cut the eyes off the Explorer main and include it as an AAL to help control spring wrap. but there's no guarantee about a specific outcome. as with all used leafs, ya gotta try to know for sure.

stock arms are just sheetmetal and can easily fold up and collapse. :( It's not the joint itself that concerns me, it's the arm you started with. they are weak.

welcome to the madness! :waving: are those stock arms welded together? :eek:

95-01 have disks. 3.73 are the most common I've seen, followed by 4.10s and 3.55s. car-part.com may be of some help. There's no difference between v8s and v6s that you'll care about (different bracketry you'll be cutting off anyway).

the coil buckets from a ford axle won't help if you intend to go with a Jeep 4-link. You'll still be adding your own buckets and control arm mounts and will be doing some significant welding no matter what. the leaf sprung 3/4 ton front axle is more common and easier to wipe clean for the Jeep brackets.

can you see the injector spraying properly? or is it just dribbling in the fuel?

then you'll want to hunt down the 3/4 ton version with 4.10 gears. They will have full tubes up front that will make it easier to weld on the Jeep suspension mounts. 3.55 gears are common. try to avoid them unless you budget increases to accommodate a gear change. it's not all that hard/expensive to build up Jeep axles to run 33s. late model Jeep axles and the Dana 44 Ford axles run the same U-joints in the front axle.

I mean, what type of suspension are you going with? what tires are you planning on running? What's your budget in all this?

it should be applicable, but can't say for sure.