Pete M

is it making a noise when it disengages?

MJ and XJ front floors are fairly similar, but get progressively different the further back you get. XJ pans are flat back there since the floor keeps going, MJ pans curve up to meet the rear wall.

which doesn't really help our low rpm engines much if at all. :dunno:

you'll need to fab up custom parts. the power seats are bulky and don't conform to the MJ floor well. but it has been done. I just can't remember who it was. :dunno:

unless you make sure that the air going in is fresh from outside, it's more of a "hot air" intake. :(

as far as I've been told, any AMC 2.5 block from any Jeep 84-2002 (or whenever they switched to the 2.4 v4) can be a donor with minimal work. :thumbsup:

someone needs to photoshop a ram hood ornament onto an abrams tank. :yes:

I'd throw armor on the Jeep first and then buy a separate pair of axles to build up. that makes it simple to swap those in to the truck in a weekend along with the lift.

or... and I can't believe I forgot this... disconnect the rear shaft from the rear axle and tie the axle up out of the way with a ratchet strap or the like (i.e. leaving it attached to the t-case). no wait, i can believe that I forgot. I forgot that I can forget anything. it's like a super power. :rotf: :doh:

I see limiting straps in your future. :D

my start is pretty straightforward I guess... back in 97 I needed my first real DD. I wanted a Jeep, but I wanted a truck, but I wanted a Jeep, but I wanted a truck... then I found out I didn't have to choose. :D

guess I shoulda clicked on the link. :doh: the XJ stuff won't work on an MJ.

x2. have one on my 88 4.0 and i like it. not too loud, but definitely not a stocker. :D

yup. eventually in the mid 90s Jeep offered a sealed rear output t-case. I would pull the rear shaft and use plastic bags and lots of duct tape to keep the oil in the t-case. Cover the opening with a piece of the plastic and wrap the crap outta it with tape to keep it there. It's not rocket science and it'll totally prevent any possible damage to the Jeep if something else is wrong with the $250 lump of steel.

get a pro to show you how and then get lots and lots of practice on scrap metal. :thumbsup:

opinions vary (and can be quite passionate). a quick search should bring up past discussions. :thumbsup:

that's a good sign, :thumbsup: but isn't conclusive since they rot from the inside-out. :(

MY DREAM TRUCK! I WILL have one someday. Prices are still pretty cheap, relatively speaking of course. 15 years ago there was a half dozen of these in the Want-Ad, and even one at my corner gas station for sale, going rate, in running condition was ~$500. I looked at a few, then other things came up before I found the *right* one. :doh: see, that's not how you're supposed to do it. You're supposed to buy the first one you see, and then start looking for better ones. :yes:

Jeeps have a way of transforming people into a mechanical wizard. :yes: own one long enough and you'll be amazed at what you'll know how to do.

2 things I remember from that recent topic that you should check: the big vacuum hose that goes to the booster could be bad (causing a massive vacuum leak that stalls the engine) or the ground behind the drivers side taillight could be bad (the fuel pump and the brake lights both ground there). how much fuel in the tank?

she got a sister? :brows:

I skipped ahead in the video. :D nothing new happens past the like 5 second mark.

nothing in the video says it was perfectly good. :D that's one of the best uses for a rear-damaged XJ. (right up there with being an MJ-donor) :brows:

not a clue. :dunno: