Pete M

different years/models might have different locations.

enough to warrant moving the perches. if you force the leafs to match the XJ axle, you'll destroy the bushings in the leafs. It's been done.

1990 Pioneer original equip: 4.0L, AX-15, NP 231, Dana 30, Dana 35, flintstone floor Build date: 8-89 Current Location: sold/unknown Notes: upgraded to an external slave, np 242, 3.55 geared axles, late model Dana 30 front and an MJ Dana 44 rear. Soon after I bought it around '07: just before I sold it:

1988 Pioneer original equipment: 4.0 / Peugeot / 2wd / Dana 35 Build date: long since faded away Current Location: S/E michigan Status: ongoing project. currently 4wd with Ford axles, TJ trans/t-case, bumpers/rollbar/etc Notes: Olympic edition. red exterior with gray interior. buckets/AC Current owner: me a few months after I bought her in 97 and had added dual sunroofs, 30" tires, tinting, a rockin' stereo and more. more recent:

should be a simple shim adjustment. :thumbsup:

The Dana 50 is a bastard axle. Fords bright idea to save a few pounds over the Dana 60 (yes, as a rule of thumb, the higher the number, the bigger the differential) by going with a slightly smaller differential. It's still wicked heavy. I don't think they are literally Dana 44 guts though. I seem to remember the guts were specific to Dana 50s (and there's not a whole heck of a lot of support for them so plan ahead with what you want to do with it before buying). It's a wide axle. you'll want to get a 10.25 or 10.5 ford rear to match it. I'm not sure anyone even makes a 5 lug to metric 8 lug adapter. :dunno: TTB - twin traction beam. Ford's weird IFS used under F-150/broncos and even some of the bigger trucks in the 80s I find the best info at forums, where there are lots of guys just itchin' to jump on any misinformation. :D I think most of my Dana 50 info came from pirate4x4.

also, I don't bother with any of those fancy schmancy pre-made addresses the photo sites provide. I click on the photo till it's the size I want to see on the forums, then right click and choose "copy image location". I paste that here, highlight it, then click on the IMG tag so it looks like this: (I added a couple spaces so you can see the text rather than the photo): Image Not Found

I don't bother with any of those fancy schmancy pre-made addresses. I click on the photo till it's the size I want to see on the forums, then right click and choose "copy picture location". I paste that here, highlight it, then click on the IMG tag so it looks like this (I added a couple spaces so you can see the text rather than the photo):

what is this "morning" you speak of? :hmm:

x2 on the bandwidth. as we sit now, we can get away with a reasonably cheap annual hosting fee. and as stated, the forum software we use is a freeware program. I use picturetrail.com for my photos. :thumbsup:

if it's from an Excursion, then it's high pinion, drivers side diff, solid axle, and has the 8 bolt metric pattern. :thumbsup: not sure on the exact width, but it's pretty wide. you'll need a late model ford rearend (just look for the same bolt pattern) to match. stock gears were 3.73, 4.10 or 4.30

1986 base Metric Ton 4x4 2.8L / AX-5 / np-207 / Dana 30 / AMC 20 4.10s Build date: long since faded away S/E Michigan (originally a California truck) Status: still derivable, Notes: base model with the upped engine and A/C plus Metric Ton. white with base blue interior. Current owner: no longer me soon after I got it around 99: more recent:

if there's nothing wrong with it, then yes, that's a good price. :thumbsup: parts such as unit bearings can be expensive on those axles.

I have 200k on mine. still a pile of junk. :D

no, see, the 2.8L can die under any circumstances, even if it's babied and cared for. they oil passage problem is a fatal flaw that can affect any of them.

and you better be snapping some photos for us. :D

the only upgrade to steer clear of the poor oil passages is a 3.1/3.4L block in which Chevy fixed the problem.

did you need another plate to still go up top for the u bolts? yes. I had to make one to fit my 9" axle. I've seen guys get away with using the stock U-bolt plate (that's tucked up under the shock mount plate).

than all is well. the only real drawback of a locked CAD is that it'll tell you right away if your front driveshaft U-joints are bad. :D The "loss" is fuel economy is too small to calculate.

yup. random total catastrophic failure. bang. kinda puts a damper on anyone's day. :(

it would be best to pop the cover to see for sure what's going on in there. need to be sure it was done properly. :thumbsup:

I put the shock mounts between the leafs and axle (trimmed to go around the axle) and kept the stock shocks. I lost an inch of potential up and an inch of potential down, but it worked great for years.

if it's a front 60, that's worth some decent coin. :D

careful about where you put the liner. there are lots of drain holes that need to remain open. and if rust ever does get under it, you won't know til it's really bad. :(