Pete M

:dunno: maybe the next update? no way to know when that is though. :(

did you check the oil level? I had a similar occurrence when my rms blew and within a half-hour left me with just a quart of the black stuff in my engine.

what's this "inspection" you speak of. :dunno: e-mis-sions? :hmm: :D :cheers: congrats! welcome to the land of the (slightly closer to being) sane.

I've always wanted to mount a tiny camera on one. :D

all minor problems. :D

for 200 I'd walk away with the whole thing, but that's just me. what's the gearing in the 98 axle? what engine/trans is in your truck?

:bowdown: :bowdown: :bowdown: :bowdown: :bowdown: :bowdown: :bowdown: :bowdown: :bowdown: :bowdown:

fram oil filter?

an 88 CAD axle is going to be tough if the owner won't let you pop the cover. If he would let you pop the CAD cover you could engage the CAD and then spin the disk brakes around and count the pinion rotations. 2.5/5spd should have gotten 4.10s from the factory.

what rear axle? upgraded anything in the front axle yet?

aren't our trucks already coated? :dunno:

unfortunately, like the one link to the admin pages that no longer works, it seems we'll be living with these glitches for a bit. I've not yet found a fix for either. :(

if you want stopping power, I suggest the late model dual-booster swap. :thumbsup: Feel free to measure and theorize til your hearts content, but spinning those parts in their tight little circles just does not constitute a significant gasoline draw in any way. that was a theory back in the day (hence the introduction of the CAD, auto hubs, etc), but they all fell by the wayside because they did not produce anything worthwhile (they did produce a lot of headaches for us owners of 20 year old trucks with 20 year old vacuum lines though :fs1: ). it sounds like a good idea, but just didn't measure up. heck, you might lose any theoretical gain just by the increased weight and wind resistance of the bigger axles. :dunno: Nothing wrong with swapping in better axles for more strength though. :thumbsup: and don't forget better gearing. :D

car-part.com don't dismiss buying an entire XJ to get it. :D

be careful about running a "too long" driveshaft. if it bottoms out hard, you can cause all sorts of damage in the t-case or worse. I don't advise it. don't just guess that shortening a driveshaft would be too much money, GO FIND OUT.

thanks!

spinning the axle shafts around in a circle takes a miniscule amount of gas compared to moving a 3000lb+ vehicle down the road. I'm not trying to rain on your project, but I doubt you'll see an improvement. :dunno:

the house works again. we ran all new wires (except for a couple of wires in the ceilings) and in the process added 3 new breakers to the box. Now I just have a lot of patching to do. :( oh, and I have a lot of re-wiring to do in the basement later (mostly putting the last 30 years of new wires up through the joists where they're supposed to be) and one more new circuit to power the outlet on the deck (later on I'll post photos of what we discovered).

I've noticed that when I sign in to go to the admin pages, it redirects me back to the main forum page. :dunno: but on the plus side, we have a new anti-spammer program (those funny looking letters that you have to try and read to be able to sign up) and it seems to work better than the last. :D and it seems to be easier for humans to read. :bowdown: usually leaps in that particular technology make it harder and harder for us to read it. :fs1:

that's a pretty strong click. reach in an touch the individual parts. I'm betting you'll feel it.

it's not rocket science. :D give yourself a little credit. :thumbsup: jack up that corner of the truck and then turn the tire by hand (in 2wd). listen for noises and see if you can figure out where they are coming from. Then turn the steering wheel all the way and rotate the tire again. if you still don't hear anything, then pull off the tire and repeat. Also while you're there, shake the tire and see if it wobbles at all. then reach in and shake the axle shaft and see if there's any slop in the u-joint.

ding-ding-ding-ding! :thumbsup: I'm sure that has a lot to do with it. It's possible that by the introduction of the WJ they figured out how to make them right. :dunno:

Could just be a really bad u-joint. the only way you're going to know for sure is to inspect it. jack up that corner, pop of the tire and see what's up. :thumbsup:

:rotf: :rotf: :rotf: :rotf: :rotf: :rotf: :rotf: :rotf: :rotf: :rotf: the ZJ 44 is a strong axle (apparently uses a lot of the same parts as the Viper), but it doesn't have enough longevity for Jeeps (how many vipers do you know with 200k miles?). it just wears out too fast.

how long would the windshield decal need to be? and the tailgate has the JEEP molded in. you just need a real steady hand when painting. :D