Pete M

sure those were aftermarket arms and not custom? I can't think of any lift whose arms aren't longer. :dunno: that's kinda the point of the arms, to correct the geometry. a 3" lift only needs them to be a little longer. there's some adjustment built into the factory lower arm mounts that you might be able to tweak individual results can vary using stock arms on a lift. your caster angle will lessen, sometimes leading to wandering on the road or even DW.

and start planning for that AX-15 swap. :thumbsup:

not sure about transfers, but I do know that 7/70 didn't cover the most important and expensive part, that engine. :( I suggest 4 years rather than 5. the monthly difference is minimal and that last year is a real killer. :ack: by then that Jeep might start needing work done to it and then you're making payments AND putting out for repairs. :ack: :ack: :ack:

found a decent site for computer stuff and so I replaced all my fans and even added an 'out" fan. it's quieter for sure, but not silent (they are cheap fans after all and my desktop is literally on the desk, right behind the monitor). the one fan that use to scream now and again was smashed repeatedly with a hammer. :yes: I got an extra 50mm fan for my xbox. got an idea on how to help it stay cool with out going all out giving 12 volts to the stock fans. :brows: (which is so far the absolute best way I've found for sucking out heat)

what's the plan for getting inside the frame? or inside the rockers? or inside the door panels?

http://www.madxj.com/MADXJ/technical/te ... dSeals.htm viewtopic.php?f=9&t=18415

one winter showed me every ding and flaw on my 86 which was previously rust free, though pretty beat up (ex-farm truck from oklahoma). I don't mess around with salt. booooo salt! :fs1:

won't make a lick of difference. our trucks rot from the inside-out. the rust will start where the undercoating can't reach.

what he said. don't ever EVER sink that much money into a Dana 35. new brake pads and gear oil are the limit I would put into a Dana 35. it's not worth any further investment. I blew up a dana 35 with 30" tires, so individual results vary. don't assume that you'll be fine. I can't stop you from buying those tires, but you'd better plan ahead and start looking for something stronger. 35s are a LOT of tire.

there's no way in hell I'd ever drive an MJ that clean in the winter time.

Programs like that may seem like a good idea on the surface, but they just become a huge scam and a tax on the poor (aka, those of us driving the older rigs). I feel the same way about emissions testing. just a big scam for more money. we used to have sniffer tests here in Michigan many years ago.

if the axle (both the fact that it's a dana 30 and that it has 4.10 gears) fits into your future plans, then this sounds like a great opportunity to upgrade the axle shafts to the later model with the big U-joints (since you'd need to replace those seals anyways). http://www.madxj.com/MADXJ/technical/te ... dSeals.htm

:dunno: maybe the next update? no way to know when that is though. :(

did you check the oil level? I had a similar occurrence when my rms blew and within a half-hour left me with just a quart of the black stuff in my engine.

what's this "inspection" you speak of. :dunno: e-mis-sions? :hmm: :D :cheers: congrats! welcome to the land of the (slightly closer to being) sane.

I've always wanted to mount a tiny camera on one. :D

all minor problems. :D

for 200 I'd walk away with the whole thing, but that's just me. what's the gearing in the 98 axle? what engine/trans is in your truck?

:bowdown: :bowdown: :bowdown: :bowdown: :bowdown: :bowdown: :bowdown: :bowdown: :bowdown: :bowdown:

fram oil filter?

an 88 CAD axle is going to be tough if the owner won't let you pop the cover. If he would let you pop the CAD cover you could engage the CAD and then spin the disk brakes around and count the pinion rotations. 2.5/5spd should have gotten 4.10s from the factory.

what rear axle? upgraded anything in the front axle yet?

aren't our trucks already coated? :dunno:

unfortunately, like the one link to the admin pages that no longer works, it seems we'll be living with these glitches for a bit. I've not yet found a fix for either. :(

if you want stopping power, I suggest the late model dual-booster swap. :thumbsup: Feel free to measure and theorize til your hearts content, but spinning those parts in their tight little circles just does not constitute a significant gasoline draw in any way. that was a theory back in the day (hence the introduction of the CAD, auto hubs, etc), but they all fell by the wayside because they did not produce anything worthwhile (they did produce a lot of headaches for us owners of 20 year old trucks with 20 year old vacuum lines though :fs1: ). it sounds like a good idea, but just didn't measure up. heck, you might lose any theoretical gain just by the increased weight and wind resistance of the bigger axles. :dunno: Nothing wrong with swapping in better axles for more strength though. :thumbsup: and don't forget better gearing. :D