Crash

Also need speedo cable, currently 2WD but wills wap to 4WD at some point. Not sure of the difference other than maybe length.

Also, if reasonably priced.. I would be interested in the rear taillight harness/connectors. This was all semi hacked when the utility bed was installed. Otherwise, I guess I could pull the one from my other project.

Well, this will be the only time I need to do it, unless I sell it. My vehicles are registered in a county that only require testing upon change of ownership.

Went to get my MJ emissions tested on Wed. My friend that I purchased the truck from had a guy that he goes to. Well, he's a d!ck and wouldn't test it due to the newly installed, oe replacement exhaust manifold not having a CARB "EO #".. WTF? Anyways, went to my guy and the manifold is acceptable. But, my MJ was running like crap at this point so was not able to get it tested. Found out that the #4 injector was sticking, actually sounds almost like a vac. leak. I had swapped that out with a "spare" from my donor XJ. It ran a little better, but still needed to be better. Between yesterday and today, I did a much needed oil change (Carquest Premium oil and air filters, CQ645 15w-40 Diesel oil),and tune up on her. I used ACD plugs (PN 41-629), CQ 35-6311 plug wires (made by Prestolite, who does a majority of OEM wires and other parts), new dist. cap and rotor (cap had build up on the connectors up top, and the rotor end piece was almost burned up), and I swapped in my older Ford orange top 19lb/hr injectors. It runs at least 200% better; idles smoother, no hesitation at all while on the throttle. I was going to order up some Taylor wires for my heep. But my cost on the wires was only 15$, and are a good quality replacement. Also had replaced the VC gasket, with the nice rubber FelPro gasket. Much easier than the stupid cork gaskets.

I just installed my older Ford orange top injectors in my MJ this AM. They are the 2-piece ones and have the grooves for the clips. When I had them installed in my XJ years ago I did not reinstall the clips because for some reason they would not line up correctly. But, they did fit snug, when everything was buttoned up. My MJ runs much better now, smoother idle and no more hesitation at all. I have a bored TB to install on it still, but waiting til after my emissions testing to be done before messing with anything else. The only advice I would have given, if you did not already install them, was to lube up the o-rings which you probably did. I used some MMO, as I always have at least a bottle or 2 around.

As long as these are built to last, I'd be interested in a pair or 2.

Pics, price?

Was "said" cabin used in the Evil Dead movies? Looks like it. Haha. Awesome.

Pending price, I would be in.

Just read through this, I like what you have done and are doing. Even though I am on the left coast, MJ's around here are hard to find in decent shape. And even the rust buckets usually cost a good amount. Other than possibly already having one, why do you want to swap to an Auto?

If it's not a rusty pile seems like a good deal. That's quite a ways from where I live so have not seen it. There is a blue one local to me that looks similar, but the person wants 4500 I think. You could find it if you look at slo.craigslist.org

Perhaps, pending price.

I was not aware of this, does that mean the grille I do not want on my heep is actually worth something? Sorry, for any OT.

Let us know how it works.

Rebuild kit?

IF you mean you need a new window crank. Your local carquest/AAP, Napa should have a Dorman/Motormite replacement handle. Or morris4x4center.

Good luck with your venture. What you want seems to be a rare commodity to be had for a reasonable price. I've had my project MJ, and donor XJ for a year or so. Haven't had time to do anything with them. Got a good deal on an MJ with a utility bed, but am going to swap beds. IF you want a project we could probably make a deal. My zip is 93444, I live near the Oceano Dunes. You can see pics in my build thread.

I have these in my FS thread. http://tinypic.com/view.php?pic=fwrfqb&s=8 The driver one needs glass, not sure how much shipping would be. I would guess 5 lbs at most?

Central Coast, CA Zip is 93444 Since you are far, I do not need complete doors. I need 97-up XJ manual window door panels, manual regulators, and the window isolator inserts that connect the window to the regulator.

HO fuel pump/sender is what you need for HO electronics/cluster. Flywheel/Flexplate are different HO/renix. Are you just swapping engine and keeping Renix stuff? Or a full HO OBD1 swap?

My EGR never worked when I got my heep. Was due to the failed vacuum solenoid. When I had to Smog it I borrowed a working egr, and it ran worse than with it connected. But, it passed visual/function test. YMMV. But if you do not need it, not really necessary. The HO, does not have EGR. They changed to cam to compensate for lack of. Disco it, plug the lines at the manifold and go.

235/75 should fit no problem. I know 31's will fit in the back no problem, but you would rub in the front for sure.

It is my understanding that Rusty's has decent 4.5 lift leaf packs for MJ. Those and maybe their coils are the only things I would think about getting from there. But I do beleive that they have a kit. I definitely wouldn't run their track bar though. I've heard that Hellcreek makes a nice leaf setup. Although, I have heard conflicting things about them still being around or not. Best bet is to buy parts you want and have a BIY kit, vs Spending a large chunk of cash on a kit that may or may not have parts you want. For example, OME 934 coils, JKS or Currie ACOS, IRO trackbar/bracket, Currie steering (or maybe WJ/crossover steering swap), goferit tie rod flip insert for driver side knuckle, 24+ in stainless brakelines (pending exactly what you need), Clayton Long arm (maybe 3-link?), extended sway bar disco, for the front Hellcreek rear lift leafs, stainless extended brake line, maybe steel axle shims if required, extended shack if necessary. IF you go with bigger tires, REGEAR your axles Shocks, At a MINIMUM, Bilstein 5100s. 7100s/w/ resi are better.

Just read through your thread. Looks great! I like the look of the 97-up XJ front end a lot better than the early model XJ/MJ. I have the newer header/hood/fenders and doors on my MJ. If you have the means, upgrading the doors is something you should consider. You get a nice single piece window and better mirrors. And, your door lock cylinders will swap to the newer style doors. I was never sure before, but I have the old Renix lock cyl in my 97-up doors. I've thought about doing a vinyl wrap on my vehicles, because the cost is not that much, but I would want a pro to do it so that if something is wrong they can fix it and I don't have to. Haha. As far as your HVAC panel light, if you remove the dash bezel, you can check to see if the light works, but it not properly connected to the back of the HVAC panel. I guess you could change the bulb anyways since you are there, but something to check for. When I got my Renix XJ years ago I had no HVAC panel light. When I swapped a new stereo HU in, I noticed that when the lights were on that there was a small glow behind the panel. So, I removed the screws to check. And sure enough, the bulb worked but was not "plugged in" to the back of the HVAC panel.

Stuff I want: Renix full gauge cluster - Functional, decent shape. Rear bumper for MJ, with brackets Adjustable UCA's Non-spindle knuckles (prefer later model), maybe with good UB's and stub shafts? Possibly calipers for these as well? Renix ones may be accepted also, are the calipers the same for the spindles and renix 4wd non-spindle knuckles? Late model XJ manual front 4 door panels and manual regulators. MJ headliner and interior pieces. Lower on the list, since funds are tight - 4WD AX-15 (prefer ext slave), NV3500/50, and matching T-case.