HOrnbrod

Does a lot more than that, if it's completely wired and all the sensors are there. Here's a better pic; you can see what it does:

Very Rare new-looking System Sentinel on Ebay, item # 190182029305

What about some quality 1/4" or 1/2" spacers w. longer studs to move 'em out a bit Jeff?

Couple of things I noticed. I bought a 1988 Pioneer 2WD w. AW4 longbed a couple of years ago from the original owner just for the camper shell. It had the idiot light cluster and black bumpers, and I've seen several Pioneers with similar options so no worries. However the rear tube bumper is definitely not factory. The factory tube bumpers were straight across (no bends in the tube) and had the license plate holder and lights mounted on the bumper. That's an aftermarket bumper, prolly Genuine Steel. Clean looking rig!

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X4. I bleed for you guys up Nawth - seriously. The climate and salt makes ALL rigs more maintenance intensive, especially our poorly factory prepped MJs. Rust prevention was never a big issue back in the day with AMC & later Mopar . Am from New England originally, and have done my share of replacing rusted out sheet metal and parts before their time, cursing the whole time. Tip: if you are looking for an MJ, or even a decent used part that's metal, check the location of the seller. Run the VIN number. If it's Nawth of the Mason/Dixon line, forget it.

Never have seen them in any of the regulation parts manuals. Maybe the coils were an accessory or dealer installed item.

Okay - just thought you might need to get er done in a hurry. I've had my MJ and several XJs for a long time, and never had to pull these, but do understand what you're saying. I call it an NQR job - Not Quite Right, and don't like doing things that way either.

Hummm, yeah I guess heat might weaken something.. Guess I'll just grind it off, unless you bring that mig down here for a hour or so...... :brows: Err, why do you have to grind this bolt off? The only thing you did was strip the Torx head right? Or did you break it off, or even loosen it? It's still tight, so why flock with it? Tomorrow when you get the 7mm 6-point allen socket, you can remove the calipers and replace the pads and be back in business. Pull that stripped Torx later if you really have to.

No their not 6mm That was the largest mm allen I had. The Chilton didn't list a size. Think they are 7 or 8mm............ Yeah that why I took the 12pts off cause I couldn't find the right size allen. It has to be 7 or 8... Find out tomorrow I hope... Okay, understand now. Just crawled under - it's 7mm.

No their not 6mm That was the largest mm allen I had. The Chilton didn't list a size. Think they are 7 or 8mm............

Thanks CW. And these are the only bolts (actually it's called a slide pin in the FSM) you need to remove take off the caliper (after squeezing with a C-clamp). At least on my 91 2WD. This is why I was having a problem understanding the 12-point stuff.

I do trust y'all, just haven't seen them. :cheers: Went back to the parts manual - in 1992-1/2 models (whatever the flock that means) the bolt part number was changed, so I ASSuME this is when Chryco went to the 6-pt metric allen bolt. Same p/n for 2WD and 4WD caliper bolts too. Previously the 2WD and 4WD caliper mounting bolts carried different part numbers. So it's been a good day - learned something again. :D :D

I do not understand what you guys are saying about the 12-pt bolts. I just looked in my parts manual. The 2WD caliper mounting bolts for 87-91 XJs/MJs are the same, p/n 34201506. 7 or 8 mm allen, don't remember, two per caliper. Pull these, remove caliper. I just finished some front brake work on my 91 2WD, and the mounting bolts were these metric allens, and they have been there since new. So what don't I get regarding the 12-point bolts you're referring to? :nuts:

The calipers are mounted with two slide pins that are removed with a metric hex allen socket. Look inside the rubber donuts on the inside face of the caliper.

If the vacuum ball is crushed, which should be fairly easy to see, you'll have more problems than just the climate control problems.

I've had this happen twice, so last time I went in there to install a power antenna, I put a length of heat shrink tubing around the joint to prevent it forever. Well, hopefully forever........... :D

UB a sick man Pete :cheers:

not really. it could possibly be a bit warmer but not likely No warmer at all as long as the flapper door is functioning. Plus it keeps coolant circulating through the heater core so it not as likely to clog up. Mopar got rid of the H2O control valve entirely in the 1997+ models, and made no physical hardware changes to the heating/AC system.

That's what I meant in my previous post - the HO manifold intake ports won't line up with the Renix block.

X2 :cheers:

Don't think so man. The ports won't line up. However, they WILL on my 91. :cheers: Ask your buddy if he'd like to part with it, including the ps brackets. :D Your not to far away, I can even pick it up.

Either that or the water control valve is stuck. Disconnect the two heater core hoses at the firewall (red circle) and flush the core with a garden hose both ways until all the crap comes out. Since the 1997+ XJs have no water control valve, I just picked up a set of the newer XJ heater hoses and bypassed the water control valve (where the yellow circle is). One less thing to go bad, and the heat works better than before. And plug the vacuum line going to the water control valve if you do this.

Here are the exact measurements for the early S10 LWB bed vs. the MJ. The SWB specs are proportionally similar, 12" shorter. I ran an S10 cap for about six months until I found a regulation MJ cap. Fits well around the bed, but is about 3" lower than the MJ roof. BTW, anyone need a nearly new LWB S10 A.R.E. cap for their MJ? (2nd pic) Image Not Found

First Car: 1953 Ford Coupe flathead V8. Free, my cousin gave it to me if I would haul it out of his yard. Towed it to the gas station I worked in after school and on weekends, and immediately swapped in a 58 Olds J2 engine from a wreck out back. I called in the Snapper because when you really got on it at the stop lights it would bust the axles. First Car I Actually Paid For: 1963 Studebaker Avanti 289 V8 w. R2-version Paxton Supercharger. Drove that thing all over the country, and kept it for 15 years. 10 MPG tops. Got married and sold it because I couldn't afford the gas. Many cars since, but this is the one I really wish I had back :cheers: