HOrnbrod

Good stuff Pete. I can contribute with a lot of "creature comfort" mods, like power windows, power mirrors, power seat(s), power rear slider, lighting upgrades, cruise install, etc. Don't know the interest in these mods, but I have saved the procedure pics, and schematics. Be glad to help out if you'd like.

The door handles or the window cranks? The window crank handles are the only thing that "pops off".

Well mate, your fusible link was smoked for a reason. If you don't give a rat's a$$ about hot wiring your fuel pump and the possible consequences, why should I? And using your A/C compressor for OBA is an entirely different catagory. :nuts:

I guess I'm weird, I like things to work as designed. What you did sounds like a bandaid, but I'm glad you got 'er going. Just remember to flip the toggle OFF if you start going end over end :brows: Did you ever find out if your rig had an ASD relay and/or an inertia switch?

1) Locate the horn and unplug the single horn wire. 2) Run a temp hot wire from the battery and touch it to the horn terminal. 3) If it blows, pull the steering wheel center cap and check horn switch. When you press the horn button you apply a ground to the horn relay through horn slip ring under the 3-screw pressure plate. 4) If the switch is okay, change the horn relay. 4) If none of the above works, you have an open in the horn circuit.

Hey Bob, I know the HO's electrons pretty well, but am an ignoramus maximus on the Renix systems. :nuts: But I know both systems had an ASD relay; a Federal mandate thingy. In fact I remember reading about various recalls throughout the years on these relays/circuits.

The NAXJA link is: http://www.naxja.org/forum/showthread.p ... 744&page=1 The ASD relay, as well as the FP relay, and the ballast resistor relay, are located in the Power Distribution Center (PDC) on my 91. You have an 89? In that case, I'm not sure if the 89 has a PDC, but the relays are there somewhere. Someone Renix guru should chime in on this. And the XLs/MJs never had an inertia switch AFAIK.

No, the Auto Shutdown Relay (ASD) will shut the pump off. I had one go bad on my 91 MJ and caused similar problems. When starting the engine the ASD relay latches and looks for the distributor to spin. If not, the ASD relay trips and cuts power to the + coil and the fuel pump. A safety thing. I would not run a seperate ground to the FP relay, if that's what you plan on doing. You can test the ASD relay by running +12V from the battery directly to the coil pos terminal. This will also backfeed 12V to the fuel pump through the ASD circuit. If the pump runs, the ASD relay is bad. If not, the pump itself, fuel pump relay, or the wiring is fubar. Worth a shot. This thread in the NAXJA OEM TEch Discussion forum may help: No power to ballast resistor or fuel pump

Aye. I see nothing's changed in the good ol' Commonwealth. When I lived there I worked for the Sun Oil Co. in Richmond for awhile (before Sunoco pulled out of the state), and ran around VA servicing the Sunoco stations' gas pumps, lifts, compressors, electrical, etc. etc. in their retail outlets. Every owner/operator in the Commonwealth LOVED the inspection program as they made 50% of their non-gasoline income via the "inspections". Gotta love it. Good old 'Bama has no vehicle inspections of any kind. You should see some of the junk running around here..............

WTF would anyone want 399 sets of MJ tail lights for a collection?? Unless he's :nuts: . Look for them to turn up on FleaBay soon I bet............... Let's see, 399 x $50 = $19,950. Nice profit.

Yeah, maybe it will fly since everything under Jeff's rig looks so clean and there are no obvious holes in the floor to gas folks out in the cab. I was nailed on an XJ, so maybe the single seat MJ will be okay. Hope so! :eek: Depends on the hangover condition of the inspector I suppose............

Yeah, me too. But I also like the stainless insert too.

MJs or XJs never came with white face gauges. But it's easily done, even a jarhead can do it. Maybe you saw them here: http://gojeep.willyshotrod.com/Whitebground.htm

Hey Jeff; They let you get away with the exhaust pipe that short in the VA inspections? I remember getting nailed on that once.............. Image Not Found

Here's a couple of pics. You can see the relationship of the swing arm to the axle. The rod is regulation 1/4" rod. The plastic socket ends can be removed from the old rod and be installed on a new lengthened rod. Image Not Found Image Not Found

Actually about 20* above parallel is correct. It appears your load sensing valve still works - most don't, so guys bypass them. Plenty of writeups in the forum. I'm still using mine, and simply lengthened the rod between the swing arm and the diff ball joint bracket the exact same length of the lift. It works as it should.

Either that or your exhaust hangers are rotted out and broken. Either way easy fix.

Wildman; If you're still online shoot me a PM - Thanks

I recently sold a NOS LWB factory roll bar on Ebay for $210. Shipping was $50 via Greyhound to CA. Sure it factory? If so, grab it; the LWB bars are veeeeery hard to find. This is what they look like: Image Not Found

Hej heralue. You can still get them from the dealer ($100/ea - OUCH!). The part numbers are 83502387 & 83502386.

Oops - sorry. :nuts: http://gojeep.willyshotrod.com/HowtoDashClock.htm

Just get the build sheet.

Good stuff. Thanks TNT.

Real glad you got it fixed. And sorry if I might have highjacked your thread.

Welcome aboard! Request your free build sheet here: http://tinyurl.com/rtsm Fill out the info requested and DC will send you all they have.