HOrnbrod

Correct Jim. I just completed this mod and it's well worth it. I was surprised to see how nice and shiney the old LCA's were from tire rub, since I never heard it. Besides better handling, the WJ arms allow me to do a 180* turn w/o backing up twice in my driveway now.

Why don't you just measure it? It takes about 30 seconds, then you'd know instead of guessing. Wheel center straight up to flare. 17-1/2" front, 20" or 20-1/2" rear. Done. Here's the quick and easy way to determine your lift over stock: COMANCHE STOCK HEIGHT Front: Measure from top of axle tube to underside of frame rail, inboard of the coil spring. Do NOT measure from the diff housing or shift motor housing. 2WD models should be 6-3/4" plus or minus 1/2". 4WD models should be 7-3/4" plus or minus 1/2". Rear: Measure the vertical distance between the top of the axle tube and the underside of the frame rail inboard of the jounce bumper. 2WD models should be 8.2" plus or minus 1/2". 4WD models should be 9.2 inchws plus or minus 1/2".

From the parts manual: P/N 52001313, Cushion, Rear Transmission Mount, 2WD, $6.88 P/N 52001180, Cushion, Rear Transmission Mount, 4WD, $42.52

Not only Renix models, the HO's do it too, especially when they are warm. Had four of 1991 and up models, all did the same, even the 2001 XJ.

Aaaarg, that sucks. I was looking forward to the completion of that project........

Very excellent clean truck. Body looks good. Like the color too. :D If the color is original, this is the first one I've seen the same color as my 1991. BTW, do you like chrome?? :cheers:

Not sure, never had a MJ SB. I think they are a full 12" shorter than the LB, but someone will probably let us know.

Below are the dimensions of the LB MJ and the 93 and below S10. If you can't find one Comanche specific, the S10 LB is the closest. Had an S10 camper shell on mine a few years ago, and researched it pretty well. It fit, but it was NQR (not quite right). The dimensions are close but not the same.

That's either a 300E or 190E, late 80's vintage. Had many of them, but none that looked like that! Muddin' is real popular down here. That reminds me: there was a forum member a couple of years ago, Veedubb I think, who was finishing up the install of a 5-cylinder Benz diesel into his MJ. Anyone hear any more from him?

Makin' any progress fighting this battle??

LOL. This is what the Jarheads use at sea when their "Men's Department" is temporarily worn out.

X2,m same thing. Use a 1/4" ratchet w. a 10mm (if I remember correctly) socket, and just "snug" them up. Cured my leak.

Give me a vise, a hammer and a small punch. Then 19 year old u-joints are about a a ten minute job per joint max. :brows: As for your O2 sensor the bung is probably junk and a new one will need to be welded in. I re-tapped mine, but it would come loose over time. I bought a Borla header and downpipe so the problem was solved. I was able to remove my stripped senser by welding a large nut onto it and prying outward on it under the nut while loosening the sensor by turning the large nut. I used a 24mm wrench to pry under the nut and the nut used a 1 1/4" wrench if I remember right. It worked very well. I used a 90* angle drill with short cut down bits; just enough room to get in there and make the hole big enough to re-tap. It lasted a long time until I did similar to what what TNT did and installed a new Mike Leach headers and down pipe when I did my stroker install. But I was lucky; most likely the O2 bung is junk for you, and it might be a good time to install new headers or a new exhaust manifold. PITA, I know........ :mad:

I had a similar problem way back when. You should be able to see if the bung is broken from the header and spinning, or the sensor is simply stripped and spinning. If the sensor is stripped, it has to come out, even if you have to drill it out (which I had to do). Then go to your local AutismZone, pick up a spark plug thread chasing tool (the O2 sensor has the same threads) and cut new threads in the bung with the tool. And be SURE to use a non-invasive anti-seize compound on the new O2 sensor so it doesn't happen the next time.

Eagle; If you ever find an answer to this from Audiovox I'd be very interested in adapting the Audiovox clone GM-type stalk for use with their kit. Don't like the dash-mounted activation switch either. I did find this: http://www.etaag.com/subcat36.htm But no pics and poor descriptions, ?? BTW, was the cruise kit you had electronic or vacuum? Assume electronic? Thanks

Nope. Not horrible, but not good. I had bought a set of 3.73 gears with the intention of running them in my XJ with 30" tires. Things changed, and they ended up in an MJ running 31x10.50s. The true final drive ratio (as evidenced by RPMs at MPH) is exactly the same as a stock automatic with 3.54 gears and stock 225/75 tires. 3.54s with 31s won't even get you back to the equivalent of stock tires with the 3.07s/ 3.73s are a good choice with 30" tires. IMHO 4.10s are about optimum for 31s in a multi-use vehicle, and you can go to 4.56 if the vehicle doesn't see a lot of highway cruising. Agree. I am running 4.10s (actually 4.11s from Yukon) w. 31" tires, and the ratio is perfect for me. I do 90% highway driving and my mileage actually went up about 2 MPG when changing from the stock 3.55 ratio. Acceleration is much better, and the approx. 250 higher RPM at highway cruising speed creates better economy. But I have the AW-4 with O/D, so that helps too..............

The rubber sheath is only visible from the diff end on the driveshaft. The tranny end (slip yoke end) has a welded cap on the u-joint yoke.

Two questions: 1. Do you still have your Body Code Plate attached to the drivers side firewall in the engine compartment? and 2. Is this the original color of your MJ? If so, the #5 - #8 digits (reading left to right) on the 2nd line of the plate is the primary paint code. 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 X X X X X X X

http://www.generalspringkc.com/leaf_spr ... anche.html

ASSuME you are talking about 3" lift spring pack? If so, Rustys is the only one I know of, unless you want a custom leaf pack. There are many custom vendors.

Yes, the ZJ V8 bar bolts on. The one I got is a bit over 1-1/8" thick. I don't know about an alum roll pan in the rear in your AO Dirty. Too much slippin' and slidin' in the winter; I'd want back there.

Save weight by ditching the rear step bumper and installing an aftermarket tubular bumper, it's about 1/2 the weight. And the fiberglass hoods are actually a couple of pounds heavier than the stock hood. Street rig would look great with the Reflexxion cowl hood, same weight. I'm saving my pennies for one........ And Addco sways are overpriced. An XJ Country or ZJ V8 sway is as thick as the Addco for a whole lot less $$.

:cheers:

The V8 ZJ sway bars are also interchangible too, and are usually considerably thicker, and grab the end links and bar bushings/retainers too.

The grey is negative. BTW, nice helpful reply roger21maynard. :nuts: