HOrnbrod

Looks good Jeff, except for the 3/8" :roll: of slip yoke travel. Packed in there pretty good. You could always cram a crap load of rocks in the bed to pull the shaft out a little. Experiencing any driveline vibes?

What's the truck, engine, and what's the alt p/n? If it's an 88 4.0L, and you have the OEM alt, it's either a 60A or 85A. And both are Delco-Remy replacable. And they are MJ/XJ specific. Although I adapted a Nippon-Denso alt to my 91. Need more info to help you............

Big-headed unhappy looking critter :cry:

JohnQ - Got to ask about your avatar? Is that animal a cross between a Mexican Hairless Dog and a cat?

Here are the Dorman/Help numbers for the tranny lines and connectors: Pressure Hose 624301 Return Hose 624300 Metal tube 624334 Fittings at Tranny 800714 Rock Auto has them all and are very competively priced.

Yes, I know that's the first thing you do when troubleshooting; go back to when the problem first started. But I did have these same vibes before the gear install, although very faint. The gear install made the vibes worse, but did not change their freq or the 35-45 MPH range where they showed up. And they are very quiet during accel, coast, and when braking. Course I know that sometimes doesn't mean squat either. :mad:

Took a peek and the flexplate bolts were all tight and the plate looked good. Yes, this is next. I am going to wait until I get the new tranny mount on just in case I luck out and this fixes it. If not, will pull the cover and do a detailed rectal exam on the diff. Also will try to borrow a dial indicator and check out the trueness of the pinion yoke since we had such a hard time with the new crush sleeve that didn't want to crush.

Ebay item # 150149765834. Uses the step bumper frame holes. Usually the price on these is doubled.

No, not contemplating selling it, but it's definitely getting to be a PITA. The new drive shaft came complete with Spicer greasable u-joints and a new YJ slip yoke. Hadn't thought about a loose or cracked flexplate as I don't have any random clanking noises, but I get on that tomorrow. I'll also check the read diff yoke closely, since the vibes got worse when we changed diff gears. I have a new OEM tranny mount coming. It still has the original, so I'm hoping that will help. Put new engine mounts and harmonic balancer on when the stroker went in a couple of years ago. Just for kicks and grins, I went to the local Chevy dealer today. They have a new Hunter road force wheel balancer. Awesome machine, and it the vibes seem to be a little less than before, but of course they are still there. Thanks for everyones comments; sooner or later I'll stumble on to the solution. But I'm nearly positive it's a driveline issue.

More like 60" u-joint to u-joint. Eyeballing both angles looks good, but I'm going to pick up an angle finder to be sure. This one really has me buffaloed.

Did put the truck up on jack stands, went slowly up to 85 MPH letting the auto tranny shift up to OD, zero vibes. Especially concentrated on the 35-45 MPH range. All the bearings were replaced during the install as I had the master rebuild kit along w. the new Yukon R&P 4.11 gears. Had a problem getting consistent patterns finally traced to a weird crush sleeve that would not crush properly during the pinion setup, so ended up re-using the original crush sleeve. Can regearing the diff cause driveline vibes? I searched hard and not found anything on it.

Oh, and the title of this thread "Bad Vibrations between 35-45 MPH" is not really true. The vibes are not BAD bad, more like annoying as hell. :mad: I'm not losing mirrors and other body pieces because of them. If anyone can figure this put for me, you will receive a case or 12 of your favorite brew. :cheers:

I lied, the vibes continue. Same crap, on at 35, off at 45, the worst vibes are under acceleration. No vibes at any other speed. No handling problems. The seat-of-the-pants vibes are basically unchanged since I started on this problem. Here's what I've done since my last post: 1. New drive shaft: The local drive shaft shop had trouble balancing my old one, so I had a new one made (Tom Woods). Helped very little. 2. Transmission/TC drop: Installed a 1" drop on the tranny, which had no effect. Pulled the shims off and am now back to normal with no drop. 3. Replaced the LCAs w. WJ LCAs: Worked great reducing body roll, did nothing for the vibes. What gets me is that I ran vibe-free for over a year post-lift until I regeared the diff. The new gears run quietly and smooth. I know I mentioned I had some very slight vibes prior to the regear, but the regearing made the vibes worse. Regearing can't change driveline angles, right? Also I have kept a close sag watch on the new Metric Ton rear leaf pack that's been there for over a year. Maybe the body settled 1/4" lower if that, basically no sag happened. So my driveline angles haven't changed. Sorry for the rant, but I'm getting discouraged and don't know what to try next.

Yeah, I didn't want to use spacers either. And there is no shorter dust cap, I looked. The OEM cap nearly butts against the wheel bearing nut as is. I just stretched a fat o-ring over the cap, squirted a small dab of clear silicon inside the cap, and shoved it on. Crude, but it looks better than w/o the cap.

Clever suggestion :nuts: JohnQ, I'll send a pic tomorrow of what I did. Works fine.......

Extremely correct Jeff-man, as usual. Let us know A-V.

Yeah, that's weird. I just looked in my parts manual and it does not list a cable for the 86. But I've found many errors over the years in the parts manual, and I'm positive the two left and right cables after the split for the 86-89 models (p/n 52003188) will work for your 86. Is yours an export model?

in·cip·i·ent – adjective beginning to exist or appear; in an initial stage: an incipient cold. Had to look that up :brows: And yes, since you are pulling the seats, take a careful peek underneath w/o destroying the existing. I did when it was convenient, and luckily all was well.

2 quarts? No, not normal at all. Most I've ever done changing a M/C and booster is maybe 1/4 quart max. Hopefully you are starting the bleeding process at the RR wheel, then LR, RF, finally LF. Any fluid on the floor? Do you still have the rear load leveling valve in the brake circuit? If so, this requires a special bleeding process as defined by the FSM. Oh, and did you bench-bleed the M/C before installing? How are you bleeding? Wifey pumping the pedal, or do you have a pressure bleeder? Lots of good threads here on this....................

Noticed when I removed my old LCAs they were all buggered up on the bottom up from lifting with the jack. No damage, but scarred pretty good. I've searched my FSM and can not find: what are are the "correct" lifting/jacking points on the MJ frame?

Got the WJ lowers on today, not too bad of a job. Had to grind away a bit as Pete mentioned so it wouldn't hit the mount on top at the frame end. Biggest problem was the axle moving when discoing the old arms. The good old bottle jack saved my arse there. Funny, on the passsengers side the axle moved forward; on the drivers side the axle moved backwards. No more tire rub, and the new arms help smooth out bumps, but the biggest difference is that it corners much flatter now; hardly any roll any more. Well worth doing

Right front side, check the plastic vacuum line where it passes through the radiator cowl and goes to the vacuum cannister behind the bumper. The vacuum line breaks there because of friction - common problem.

Yeah, birdseed will do that. I haul it all the time, but so far, so good.

Do you have a link?