HOrnbrod

I've developed a vibration lately between 35-45 MPH. It's almost like a switch; comes on/off exactly at these speeds. It;s a bit wirse when accelerating, but when I take my foot off the gas it's still there. I can feel it both in the wheel and in the seat. I thought for sure it was tire balancing, but have had them balanced twice (the worst was 1/4 oz. off) and rotated; nothing changed. While at the tire shop the guys checked for any slop in the steering and all was tight. We jacked up the rear end and accelerated up to 65 MPH with no vibrations, so it's not the driveshaft or anything in the back end. I have not done anything lately that could possibly cause this. Last thing I did was change the gears, but the vibration was already there then, only not as bad as it is now. And it seems to be getting worse. I don't think it has anything to do with death wobble, and it's been lifted for over a year and this only started a few weeks ago. Steering damper? Tranny mount? Any ideas will be appreciated.

dakal; Looks like you moved your battery to the back porch, and also installed a cold air intake! :cheers:

Metric Ton spring source. Spring specs are: o New manufactured Metric Tonne leaf spring o Has the same specs as Jeep leaf spring part number 52003676 o Five leaf, three thinner top leafs and 2 heavier bottom leafs o 1500 # load rating o 130 - 275 spring rate, 9-5/8" arch o 26" x 31" x 5-leaf, 2-1/2" wide Price is $175/ea. Link: http://www.generalspringkc.com/leaf_spr ... eclub.html Been running these for about 1-1/2 year now. No sag, ride great, gives about a 2-1/2" lift.

That's the highest I've seen an MJ go for on Ebay (if it's gone), and I remember that 89 Laredo. My rig came from roughly the same area in VA (Lynchburg), with about the same mileage. 'Course, it was not an Eliminator, nor 4WD, but it had zero rust and bought it from the original owner. According to the VIN, the Ebay truck is correct as advertised as far as I can see. Prolly sell for $15K or more in five years if kept up.

AAARG. Thnks Wade. Got to look at other forums besides Tech. 91-92 HO Eliminators were rare w. 4WD, but still too much $$.

Don't know if y'all saw this nice original MJ on Ebay (Item number: 130145755339), a 91 4x4 Eliminator w. about 80K miles. Bidding went up to $7300 and it still didn't sell. Maybe the guy wants $10K+ for it. Good to know, I guess, that nice original Comanches are finally going for decent prices. Might keep that in mind next time we all be thinking about breaking out the Sawzall and cutting torches. :roll:

Yeah, had the same problem on my third attempt (after raod testing) to remove the pinion when I did my recent regear. Had to use overhead blows too. Not a 50% mushroom, but maybe 25%. BF impact wrench w. frequent cool-downs did allow me to get past the expanded threads and do the correct torque finally on the nut though.

??. Did he mean "pull the axle" out as in prep to change the ring/pinion, or "pull the axle" as in swap the rear end? He said 'drop' which to me means taking the entire assembly off the truck. It gets vauge once I start using the same term for multiple things. Anyways, in summation, do gears with axle not in truck. Unless you hate yourself. Okay Dirt-man, understand. Had a compound lift to work with (lift chassis and then rear end) and was not prety easy. :cheers: Damn - too many brews and not enough proof reading. Had a compound lift to work with (lift chassis and then suspend rear end) and was pretty easy.

??. Did he mean "pull the axle" out as in prep to change the ring/pinion, or "pull the axle" as in swap the rear end? He said 'drop' which to me means taking the entire assembly off the truck. It gets vauge once I start using the same term for multiple things. Anyways, in summation, do gears with axle not in truck. Unless you hate yourself. Okay Dirt-man, understand. Had a compound lift to work with (lift chassis and then rear end) and was not prety easy. :cheers:

To regear, you do not have to remove the axel assembly. You remove the diff cover, the driveshaft, and the two axles. Order your ring/pinion set in advance, and a master rebuild kit. One day is plenty of time. No worries on pinion angle, perches, etc., you're just regearing. Or am I missing something here??

Tip:If you don't use a press, put the nut about3/4 back on. Get out BFH, and give her a few good smacks in the face, and see how she likes it. The gal will be looser than Paris Hilton by the 3rd hit. :D Paris Hilton LOL. Damn sure I could not do her any good. ;) More better to stick a 2x4 between the nut and the BFH to soften her up first.

??. Did he mean "pull the axle" out as in prep to change the ring/pinion, or "pull the axle" as in swap the rear end?

As far as your gear ratios are stated - correct. But you have to look further down the road to save you extra work and $$. If you plan on wheeling later, do what Pete and Dirty and everyone says and dump the D35, and swap in a D44 or 8.8 with the gears you want already in it. If your rig is strictly going to be a D/D and you're not going SOA, keep your D35 and regear it yourself. It's easier to change gears that swap out the entire rear, IMHO. If I can do it anyone can do it ( and who knows, I was probably lucky). It takes a lot of research, ask questions from the guys here that have done it before, and if you feel comfortable, go for it. And I for one would not want to take a chance on a used rear w. questionable gears; I'd rather put in NEW gears and know what I have. Plus you'll have to most likely buy new or transfer brake parts, seals, etc. A new set of D35 ring/pinion gears and a master install kit can be had for less than $200, and who knows with a used rear how many $$ you'll end up spending.

Don't know how long ago you bought the 3.73s Eagle, but I looked into buying them when I changed gears - no one had them. Been back ordered for a year or so. So I went with the 4.11s, and glad I did. Worked out well, and gives a bit of room for tire expansion.

Suggest next logical step is to bring your battery to AutismZone or Sears (anywhere) and get a load test to eliminate the battery.

Before regearing (3.55): 65MPH = 2100 RPM After regearing (4.11): 65MPH = 2300 RPM Original tires: 225/75/15 Current Tires: 31x10.5x15 Original MPG: 14-17 MPG Current MPG: 17-19MPG New Performance: Priceless And yes, I did change the speedo gear and checked the speedo/odometer w. GPS and w. local cop radar. Do the math; 3.55 gears should work for you, depending on your tire size.

If you have a 5-speed and nobody has messed with it, chances are you have 3.07 gears. Auto tranny gears were a higher numerical ratio (usually 3.55) to compensate for the AW4 OD. I had converted my D35 to disk brakes, and swapping out the rear end was not an option since I had some $$ into the rear end. I went from 3.55 to 4.11 because of the bigger tires, and it was my first time to regear a D35, although I had done various Ford rear ends way back when. Biggest problem I had was getting the pinion preload correct, then eliminating a slight binding high spot when installing the ring gear. Ended up using the exact same shims (after 3-4 tries) that the original 3.55 gears had on both the pinion and ring. The ones that came with the new master kit (Yukon) were all too thick. Also changed out all the bearings. Not too bad a job, especially if you have access to a lift. Daymed if i'd do it on my back. Got about 3K miles on it now - no problems.

Weird. Couple of things: 1. Did you ever get a load test on the battery? and 2. What is the charging voltage across the battery when running?

X2 on both of Pete's comments above. Throttle body spacers had zero effect on my stroker. However the bored out throttle body definitely did, especially at WOT. Besides the obvious power gains of a stroker engine, the most noticible performance improvement for me was regearing for the best RPM vs. tire size. An added bonus was a slightly higher RPM (200-250 RPM) vs. MPH over stock specs which put the engine in a more efficient power band and resulted in a 2-3 MPG improvement.

If you measured 2.56V across the batt something is obviously drawing it down. Have you tried pulling the fuses to see of the current draw stops or stabilizes? I did disconnect my positive and put an ammeter in series just to be sure; it remained rock solid with zero draw even while auto-ranging on down the the milliamp scales on my meter. You can stick new batteries in there all day long, but if something is drawing it down it will give it up sooner or later if it sits. Can be a beetch to find sometimes; in a couple of the old Benz's I never did find the problem, just put a quick disconnect terminal on the negative side of the batt when I knew it was going to be sitting over two days or so. But older Benzes had a known defect with wiring harness deterioration, even had factory recalls to replace the harnesses on some models. AFAIK, Jeeps do not have this problem.

Like in most of our rigs, the crappy OEM French Renault interior lights were rotted out and crumbling in my truck. They are no longer available, and when I saw someone purchase a used set on Ebay for close to $100, I thought there had to be a suitable substitute that looked nearly like the original. I had some VW Beetle lights in mine, but they just didn't look right. I saw a used pair of Porsche 911/912 Hella original chrome shell interior lights on Ebay, and picked them up for about $20. You can also find these same lights with a black metal shell, but I preferred the original chrome. They are well built, all metal with a glass lens, and look very similar to the MJ originals. They are three-way too, and rock front-to-back verses the Renault units that rocked top-to-bottom. Here's a pic of the front before installation. And the back. Notice the simple spade connectors, very easy to wire. Here's a pic before preparing the hole. Using a Dremel tool, just edge it out about 1/8" all the way around, test fitting the lamp until it's right. Cut off the original connector, crimp on three female spade connectors on the wires, wire it up, do a smoke test, then pop it into the hole. I thought it came out pretty well, even though it's not original.

Yes, all the gauges are replaceable in the cluster.

X2. From the FSM: If your voltmeter is inop now, pull the cluster and measure the voltage at connector terminal A8. You should read battery voltage. If you do, the gauge is bad. If not, you have an open circuit to the gauges fuse.

If you pick up 1992 or newer Jeep XJ or MJ sway bar links, they are about 1-1/2" longer than the ones you had on your 89. These were long enough for mine w. a 3" lift, and can be had at AutismZone, Advance, or NAPA. If these are not long enough to keep the bar ends from hitting your coil springs, check out Gojeep's page here to lengthen them: http://gojeep.willyshotrod.com/HowtoSwaybarlinks.htm

????? :nuts: