HOrnbrod

Great, glad you found it. What you are describing sounds like the headlamp delay module. It's a relay of sorts, but more like a timer, not for protection. Just curious, do you have the delay function now?

There are no relays for the headlamp circuit, only for the factory foglamps. Since the "flash-to-pass" works on the column stalk, the harness is most likely okay. I think your headlight switch is fried.

Crap - never mind. Clutch master. Got to learn how to read one of these days...................

Now's the perfect time to do the 95/96 Cherokee booster/master upgrade. :cheers:

Does your welder have a data plate on it? Should say what the required input voltage/phase is.

Agree Pong. especially with gas shocks. The sideways angle does not allow the valve mulit-staging to function as designed, and can cause poor dampening and fading. This I got from the OME engineers when I was thinking of going with a different more sideways mounting in back so I could use shorter travel shocks. But they finally came up with a ZJ shock that was just right travel-wise for my application.

Good guess as any, but maybe too small for that. Here's a pic with dimensions: Image Not Found I'm clueless on this one. Maybe it's for a CJ or something?? Most all the stuff I got was late 80's.

Got this bar set with the load of Mopar parts I picked up last weekend - anyone know what they are for? About 1-1/2" tubing. Image Not Found Image Not Found

Well, spent the day trying to ID the factory upholstery. Unfortunately most of the stuff that still had part stickers is for late 80's Mopar crap cars, like the Plymouth Acclaim, Dodge Dynasty, Chrysler LeBaron, etc. etc. Below are two with no part numbers and I could not ID, but I doubt they're for the MJ bench. Although the red velvet bench bottom would look sweet in an MJ. :yes: Image Not Found Image Not Found

AAAAARGH. Knew that - brain pharte :oops:

Good point. The 91+ brake switch is different than earlier years, it's a dual contact switch, one for the brake lights, and one for the cruise control system. It should line up and be a bolt in mechanically and all you have to do is adapt the brake light wiring. I did not use the XJ prop valve, and kept my MJ combo valve intact, fabbing my own brake lines from it to the M/C since I retained my working rear load leveling valve.

Don't know how much travel he might need, but BPE's like those on the Rocky Road site will give about another 1-1/2".

You did well picking up the pedal asembly as sometimes the 95/96 booster rod fits your existing pedal w/o mods (91-92 MJs w. auto and non-ABS). Other MJs need mods to the booster arm and/or pedal, depending if it's ABS or not, or manual/auto tranny. You will need the 1/4" aluminum spacer plate that goes between the booster and firewall; hope you picked that up too. You can move your existing washer bottle forward about an inch too to have clearance from the booster.

Most likely. Too bad; they are getting hard to come by. :cry:

Pull a shock off and measure total travel extended and collapsed. Then measure the distance between the shock mounts. That will tell you something. They might have shipped the wrong shocks w. your lift kit?

All MJ's had that option - it was a dealer installed accessory. BTW, is your Eliminator a LWB or SWB?

Mmmmkay....mighta found the problem. I ohmed the sending wire out straight to the neg terminal on the battery and got about 91 ohms (key off). If I read this right, you're reading through the meter movement and 91 ohms is okay. The simple way is to turn the key on, disconnect the sender, and the gauge should go to C (left). If not, touch the coolant sensor wire to ground, the gauge should go to H (right). If it does both, the sender is bad. If it does not, the sensor wire to the gauge is open. This is for the 91, but I think the temp gauges are the same in all years. I take the same temp sensor as you do.

Here's a pic of the one you need (# 12), part number 53005309. Maybe they can cross reference it for you. Image Not Found

I picked up a truckload of NOS Jeep/Renault/AMC parts up in TN a couple of weeks ago and am picking my way through the boxes and listing it on eBay. There are lots of new factory seat skins for both bench and bucket seats. I'll let you know if I have anything. Don

That was pretty condescending considering the differences. 97-01 are all the same. Just slip a long angled open or closed spanner over the nut, reach underneath and spin the shock until the spanner rests against something solid, like the block, put a pipe wrench or BF channel locks on the upper shock body and turn.

That's "olde" pharte, with an 'E' I think the revised version is a lot better. I'm a lot like Pete. I grew up when cars were over-engineered -- you could buy a Ford or a Chevy and (within reason) just drop in a bigger motor and take it to the drag strip. Today, cars (vehicles) are so precisely engineered to keep costs under control that if you add 5 horsepower you risk blowing a tranny or axle. There are no "frames," so the structure is engineered to be only as strong as necessary ... and to crumple in a pre-determined way in the event of a collision. None of this is geared to the kinds of stresses a vehicle might encounter under real off-road conditions. Example: When AMC/Jeep offered the hidden winch option on the mid-80s XJs and MJs, they used a 5000 or 6000 pound Ramsey winch. Today, nobody would even think of putting less than an 8000 pound winch on an XJ, and I've seen estimates that the force needed to extricate a vehicle of around 4,000 pounds that's in mud up to the floor may be as high as 12,000 to 15,000 pounds. That's why we want to overbuild. We're not concerned with CAFE (unless our trail rig is also our daily driver), but we are concerned with staying alive and not hurting one of our trail buddies. Hey Eagle, glad to see you're still awake, and my apologies for forgetting the "e" in old. You're so right, cars were mostly over engineered back in the old days, BUT here's an exception. My first build when I was a dumb-a$$ high school kid and worked after school and weekends in a Sunoco station (in Rockville, CT BTW) was a 53 Ford coupe, in which we crap-canned the flathead and transplanted a 57 Olds J2 engine. Ran it a few times at the Colchester, CT dragway, and it basically snapped an axle every other run. Definitely Ford did NOT over-build in this case. Of course, with zero $$ to work with, my drag racing career was very short. Also, the diff gear change still working well, and have almost 300 miles on it now. Maybe I should pop the camper top off and give it a go at our local strip. No one races in that class, and the Hesco stroker is running strong. Naw, probably break an axle w. the D35................ Too old now for that - another oldE pharte. :cheers:

Got this XJ set up in a sinkhole behind the cotton field. Will install the new brackets and try an extreme side pull w. the dozer this weekend.. :cheers: Image Not Found

AAAAAARGH, U B a hard man Pete. But not everyone has a rig like yours, custom bull bumper, and as you say, built the best way - over-built. These brackets now I think will do the job for most guys, thanks to the comments and suggestions from y'all (Eagle too! ). The old pharte really knows his stuff, and tells it like it is.

Understand. I think a cross I-bar would take care of that. I'd hesitate to weld one across, rather use the tow hooks bolts instead and drill to fit. Welding would introduce vaguearities (is this a word?? :nuts: ) and might only fit the vehicle it was welded up for. That's why the holes are slotted so it will fit all. Also, if you don't want or need the plastic skirt under the bumper, the bracket itself can be shortened a couple of inches to place the point of force closer to the attachment points. Also, I think by incorporating the power steering bolts into the bracket, it will strengthen that known weak point on the frame. Hey Pete, if you'd like to take a short vacation down south, I have an IHC Drott bull dozer we can use to do some real world side pull testing - on your truck

Actually Pete, It's 6" from the 1st bolt to the center of the tow hook holes. And yes, an L-bar (or I-bar) could easily be mounted to the tow hook bolts under the hook between the brackets.