HOrnbrod

That will work just fine IF the problem is a shorted alt. If not, hook a DMM (digital multimeter) in series with the disconnected + battery terminal and the + battery cable. Use the 10A scale if it your meter has one. If you show amp reading w. everything off, you have a short somewhere that is drawing off amperage from your batt over time. Then pull fuses one-by-one until the current draw reading stops. Then you will at least know which circuit to start troubleshooting. I used to have many old Benzes that were notorious for draining the battery down over time, like a couple or three days w/o driving.

Only the 91-92 MJs had the alternating turn/side markers. If you have that on your rig, it's been installed by a PO. Easy to do. The emergency flasher circuit is independent from the brake lights and turn signals. The flasher power is connected directly to the battery +, through a fuse, to the column switch, then to it's own flasher, then to the four corners. The only commonality is the bulb socket grounds. The flasher circuit also goes through the alarm/chime module. So if the corner light grounds are okay, try pulling the chime module and see if that might clear it up.

Got that right.............

AAAAARRRRRRRRRGH. Beat me on that one Eagle. You're pretty quick for an olde pharte (get it right this time?)

Tank was from the yard, 'bout $15. Put new pumps on it since I didn't want them burning up any time soon. I'd recommend to also get a new fender liner from Rock Auto at the same time you get the pumps because it's hard to remove w/o destroying it. There's only one way it will fit up in there correctly, and I made a cardboard template to line up the mounting holes, then punched the filler neck hole with a chassis punch. There were holes were already up front in the inner fender behind the headlight for the wiring and water lines; I just stuck a grommet on them. All in all not to hard, and it took about four hours.

By far best prices on the pumps is at Rock Auto, ANCO Part # 6723. Have had very good parts results in both quality and price wise from them lately.

Been wanting to install one of the newer (97-01) XJ windshield washer pumps that fit inside the drivers fender well to free up some space in the engine compartment and get the old bottle away from my 96 booster/master cylinder. Here's the tank nestled up in the fender, fits perfectly: Had to punch a hole in the inner fender for the new filler neck. Also had to dremel out a slot for the filler neck guide: Filler neck mounted and wired up w. spare pump water hose and wires in the engine compartment so if the primary pump breaks I don't have to pull the fender shirt again: Now what to do with the extra space. Thinking of a remote oil filter or ?? Any ideas?

The fuel pump is running when you first turn the key ON? How about after you start it and release the key? Reason I ask is because in the HO's at least (ASSuME it's the same in the Renix models) there is a fuel pump relay that bypasses the ballast resistor when starting, then latches after the engine starts to put the ballast resistor back into the fuel pump power circuit, dropping the operating voltage to about 9V. If the fuel pump relay was bad you might be losing power to the pump after it starts and you release the key. Suggest checking the fuel pump voltage in all positions of the ignition key.

I got the complete set (91-95 XJ, 91-92 MJ), however I have not installed the alt cable yet as the cable connector will not fit the recessed output connector on the HO Nippon-Denso alternator. I have emailed Jon to fix this so I don't have to modify the alternator but no response. Might be okay for the 1990 and below, don't know. However all the other cables worked just fine and were high quality and about twice the gauge of the stock cables. I do have some other NOS XJ factory cables for 1997+ models. But they appear to be too long, which is better than too short. :D So I just installed Jon's cables since I already had them.

His name is Jon Kelly, web site is: http://www.geocities.com/JeepI6Power/ Quality products. I have a couple of sets of MJ cables from him, PM me if you're interested. This thread reminded me I had these cables and had never installed them. I finally got around to putting them in the other day. Dayem, what a difference in the speed in which the engine turns when starting now and the overall efficiency of the electrical sysem. Even though I had my 100W Hella H4 headlamps wired through relays these lights are very much brighter now. Even the dash voltmeter barely moves when turning everything on now as before it dropped to about 10V. Proves the voltage drop is much less. Excellent upgrade.

What year is your MJ? Clock radios were not an MJ option until 1992. Also, if you install a 1992-1996 clock radio, the radio dimmer lights will be affected, i.e. will not work. Don't know if this is causing your problems, but might be good to pull the radio and see if it clears up.

His name is Jon Kelly, web site is: http://www.geocities.com/JeepI6Power/ Quality products. I have a couple of sets of MJ cables from him, PM me if you're interested.

I have a whole box of chrome tow hooks. Specs for these are 1/2" holes 1-1/2" apart. Work just fine w. the factory brackets. PM me if you want a set Alex. Image Not Found

With a digital multimeter and by loosening the screws on the TPS and turning it. The holes in the TPS are slotted so that it can be turned and adjusted. You need to have the voltage or OHM specs to adjust it properly, but I don't have them off hand. Here's a good site on Renix sensor adjustments: http://www.lunghd.com/Tech_Articles/Eng ... ostics.htm Also, for the HO guys, there is no adjustment for the TPS.

Yes, keeping the Commander placated is always good. I'm going to do just the opposite. All my window trim is bright trim except the two door windows. Under that ugly flat black finish (actually I think it may be anodized because it lasts so long) is bright and shiny. I'm going to try to remove the black and make it look like the old XJ Wagoneer pic below. Chrome is beautiful................

Did you have these braking problems BEFORE you removed the rear height proportioning valve? Is that why you removed it? And if so, can you describe exactly what you did to remove / bypass the rear valve?

Why didn't I see that coming........ :razz: Jeff Okay, okay, forget the mirrors. I put the chrome mirrors on because I found a cheap set of NOS power mirrors that happened to be chrome. But the door handles would look good with your grille and windshield trim. Oh, and what are those drip pans you are parking over? You don't have any leaks, do you? ;)

I used to always get the original Bosch pump at the stealership, but needed one in a hurry about four years ago and got the NAPA Bosch (NFP P74155) pump w. strainer, filter sock, etc. and it's still going strong.

Concur Jeff, looks sweet. What you gotta do now is slap on a set of chrome mirrors and door handles :cheers:

Do all springs have a stamping that designate their arch and, thus, capacity? Where is it, if so? All leaf springs (coils springs too) are built to a specific set of blueprints and specs. These include free arch, eye-to-eye length, # of thin / thick leaves, load rating, etc. etc. These specs are not stamped on the spring itself, but are recorded in the spring master blueprint database usually by the spring vehicle application or original factory part number. This database is used by custom spring builders like Alcan to build OEM spec springs or to design custom springs according to their customer's needs, like for a specific lift or load rating. There are only a handful of spring manufacturers left in the US. Most guys selling springs nowadays do not build their own springs anymore but contract them out to one of the US spring builders or overseas (read China). 'Course, the higher number of springs the marketeer orders from the spring maker, the less each spring will cost him, and hopefully pass the savings on to the customers.

I had a set of metric ton springs made up by General Springs (3+2 leaves, 9-5/8" arch, 1500 lbs. capacity) and netted 2-1/2" lift on the rear over the 4-leaf 980 lb stockers. That's with the camper shell and gear in the back. They ride just slightly stiffer than the old springs and have not sagged at all in over a year now.

Yeah, I agree with CW. The XJ/MJ cluster gauges were never high precision gauges to begin with, and after almost 20 years, I expect the tolerance is probably +/- as high as 50%. Been running the same cluster through two engines, and the readings have been pretty consistent throughout. When something doesn't look right, I double check with my DVM. My voltmeter is AFU too, reads less than 12VDC when anything is on, like the radio. That's with a HO alt, oversize cables, etc. So I don't worry about it anymore.

Okay, I'll bite - why should a Jasper engine have higher oil pressure?

Welcome back Alex. My 91 reads about 50 PSI at idle, and my idle is about 800 RPM. Also I have the Hesco high output oil pump if that makes a difference.