HOrnbrod

That's what I used with my Ford Exploder brakes, but had to cut a slot so I could mount the e-brake cable. Only way I could think of that would work with the original cables.

I did a lot of research because of the same reason. Wanted a single DIN CD player w/o the garrish displays, which I really hate. The Mitsubishi (1997 +) fills the bill, and looks natural, matching the dash lights, no brighter or dimmer. These have a illumination circuit input too, and at full blast is no brighter than the dash lights. And there is no security code to deal with. Tried a Kenwood, but it sucked at picking up distant FM stations. Thought it was my power antenna, but it was the radio itself. Managed to find a schematic, and they have a 2nd stage amp on the input, that the others I tried do not have. This is a good cheap upgrade, these CD/AM/FM single DIN units are readily available, and it's better than most of the aftermarket alternatives.

What you mean "ugly" and "half good"? I resemble that remark.. :D :D

Just sold a set of these - got tired of tryimg to keep them clean: Image Not Found

Stumbled upon this while surfing: http://www.rol.ac.psiweb.com/jeep/

Yes, it has an illumination input.

If you find the module like above Jeff (which is the only one I know that will work because the others are too deep), you can just stick a fresh 9V battery on pins 1 (-) and 5 (+) and the display will light up.

Yeah, shoot him an email. Good guy to work with.

please? i couldnt find them on ebay and i've never seen a benz in our JY so if its not outta the way then we can work something out Here's where I got mine: Phil Fox (billyboborama@gmail.com) Phil tests them by powering them up and will send you a pic. Sometimes the LCD display has color bleeding over time. Don't get one w/o seeing the display lit up.

The thermometer come from a mid-80's Mercedes 300E. Had wasted space below the clock, so put it to good use. need more info. pronto.. that has to be the coolest thing i've ever seen. Just put a short writeup on the ambient temp display in the MJ Projects section.

Here's a quick writeup for the Benz temp indicator install in the 1991 XJ/MJ clock. The parts I used were an ambient temperature display module from a W124 series Mercedes Benz (from Ebay, part number 124 542 0105), and the module and temp sensor wiring harnesses. Remove the plastic case from the temp module as it sits too deep behind the clock. Four screws and it slides right off. Then remove the top cover lens assembly from the clock. Carefully use a sharp utility to cut the plastic pins that hold the face on. The 1991 clock is the only clock I've seen that has sufficient space to mount things like this. Check GoJeep's site in the clock section for some info I sent him regarding the 1991 clock. Next break out the Dremel tool and start trimming. I had to cut a hole in the back for the module harness connector, and trim down then trim down the edges of LCD display to fit into the lower slot in the clock. After everything fits and clears okay, mount the LCD display (I used Liquid Steel and clamped it in to set overnight). Replace the clock face by "welding" it back on. Lightly touching the pin holes with a low wattage soldering iron. Wire everything up and do a smoke test on the workbench. Smoke Test Mount the temp sensor under the front bumper, run the harness thru the firewall into the dash clock cavity, and hook everything up. I used the power, dimmer, and ground wires conveniently located on the cigar lighter. Finished!

thanks, I was just not reading the tape right...I think I've proven I'm norwiegian... That's Norwegian mate. :cheers:

Yes the radio / CD fits in well I think, except for the "MITSUBISHI MOTORS" in gold letters in the lower left corner. But Mitsubishi was a part of D/C at the time (2003) and the head was made by Alpine, so it's sort of still in the family ;) . The thermometer come from a mid-80's Mercedes 300E. Had wasted space below the clock, so put it to good use.

X2

Well, the old cassette player finally went out on me, so I looked around for a single DIN CD/AM/FM replacement unit. Seems like all the aftermarket heads had the crappy blue, purple, green, and red light displays which I hate. Also hate detachable faceplates. Found a Mitsubishi head on Ebay that fit in pretty well and wired it in. Used the old cassette player bracket and did not have to trim the dash bezel. Sounds great, but am looking to change out the rear speakers now........... :D

Do it - can't hurt. BTW, where is Waste Valley? Sounds nice ;)

I've never heard they were the same (but that does not mean anything :brows: ). Do you know what S10 parts are the same, the latch / lever assemblies, or the handle and rod parts? I've not witnessed it first hand, but a friend of mine had 3 MJ's in the 90's. Told me that the innards of the tailgate were pretty much all the same. I can't say any more about specifics. Been checking this out a bit. The handles are interchangable, come in both black and chrome, and are like about 50% cheaper. Not sure yet about the latches/levers but I suspect they are the same price-wise too. Good stuff!

I've never heard they were the same (but that does not mean anything :brows: ). Do you know what S10 parts are the same, the latch / lever assemblies, or the handle and rod parts?

Got your check valve and vacuum hose hooked up to the booster?

Here's an old pic with the original AMC ROL (Rust Out Light) fog lights. Had to put covers on them to hold everything together. Long gone now. These things would rust out on a new XJ / MJ in less than a year. And the candlepower was about equal to a sick Zippo. Image Not Found

Image Not Found You can use a set of brackets like above. They bolt in the factory top bumper holes and extend your light out about 2", enough to use about any kind of fog/driving light you want. I have a couple of new sets of these; shoot me a PM if you're interested. Don

If you just wire pin C from the dimmer directly to pin H of the headlamp switch, it should work fine. Mine does. But the delay module also feeds the security system (if you have one) so you will prolly lose some functionality there. Try it and see if you do. Also, did you try just pulling the Headlamp Delay fuse (25A, #11) in the fuse block?

Yes, that's effectively what you did. You jumpered the output of the dimmer switch directly to the headlamp switch, bypassing the delay module. Glad you got 'er done.

Got the Factory Schematic and it's the delay module. Looking like I may have a grounding problem and the module is acting as the ground now:nuts: Looks like I may have to pull the dash if I can not locate to problem soon :cry: You can take the delay module out of the circuit by disconnecting (and insulating) the TAN 12AWG wire input to the delay module at pin 6. This at least will tell you if the problem is in the delay module.

The wire count is right, but the colors are not, according to my FSM. The headlamp delay module has an 8-pin connector, only 4 are used.