HOrnbrod

Your pics are small, but it looks the burnt fuse contacts are for the Turn Signals. This should be a 20A fuse. Do you have a meter, or even a 12V test light? You will need one or the other, preferrably a meter so you can measure 12VDC and also check for shorted and open circuits. The first thing is to check and make sure you have 12V on one of the burnt contacts. All fuses in the block will have 12V on one side. The other side goes to the device. Then at least you will know if the problem in the circuit is either upstream toward the device, or downstream toward the power supply. And in order to troubleshoot each circuit you will need wiring diagrams, like in the Factory Service Manuals for your vehicle to check for power at various points along the circuit. A set of FSM's will pay for themselves many times over. Also, check this URL: http://oljeep.com/gw/elec/cherokee/edge_cherokee.html MIght be the wiring diagram you need there.

Yes you can, but you should have an alignment done whenever you change steering parts.

First try pulling the chime alarm module. It's located on the left side of your fuse panel, about a 1"x2" black (or blue) plastic box. When it goes bad, all kinds of weird electrical problems can occur since they have so many inputs.

I agree, that is retarded. My FSM does not say that. And my load sensing valve is functional and works fine. Start with the RR wheel, then LR, RF, then finish off w. the LF. I always get Mama to help me out with the pump, hold, crack the bleeder, close the bleeder, then release. One thing I do is fit a piece of clear plastic tubing over he bleed screw, and insert the other end in a clear plastic glass with an inch or so of brake fluid in it. Makes it easier to see when the bubbles stop, and having the tube in the brake fluid prevents sucking any air back into the system if you're slow closing the bleeder screw. Then I repeat the process on all four wheels to be sure all the air is gone.

This URL will help: http://www.ado13.com/techs/relay.htm The pin numbers on most all automotive relays are the same as the URL describes.

Now yer talkin. Agree. This outfit uses clever marketeering, and most likely does pretty well. They are a certified an ARB/OME reseller, so I guess that's kind of "read between the lines" advertising allowed by ARB. I do admit I did purchase some BPE's long ago from them, but only because they had the lowest price. The're customer support was okay too...........

Not a dumb question at all. The problem with running high current devices (like an electric fan) directly through a switch is because of the high current (amp) draw of the device. An electric fan probably needs 15A startup amps or more to start. Most switches are rated at only 15-20 amps, so it's pushing it right to the limit. You can use heavy 10 or 12 gauge wire, but the switch is still the weak point of the circuit. The solution is to use a relay. The four contacts on the relay are the + and - coil contacts, and the + and - load (fan) contacts. The relay coil is wired to the switch, which energizes the relay through the coil, requiring very little current draw, and protects the switch from frying. When the relay energises, the load contacts close, energising the device. One of the load contacts goes to a 12V power source; the other to the load. The load contacts are wired with heavier gauge wire, and the relay is located as close as possible to the load to minimize voltage drop. You can also use the relay to turn on the ground, instead of power. That's why it's best to use relays when upgrading headlights on our rigs, because there are no relays in the headlight circuit, and the headlight switch (or the wiring) is the forst to fry, and the voltage drop through the stock anemic wiring does not allow full power to the lights. Hope this makes sense.

Yeah Pete, the Tupperware is a great weather-proof enclosure, but I would be afraid those wire nuts would vibrate off eventually. I like to solder and heat shrink wire connections.

X2. The only OME items on this cobbled together "kit" are the front XJ coils, and these are quality coils.

DAAYMN! That's got to be brutal fighting the rust and corrosion. How the heck do you do it? :bowdown:

Yes, I've been looking at them too. Huge HP vs. displacement, light weight, but reliability was an isue with the race engines for prolonged flat out speed. But for what we would use them for, might be excellent.

Roger mate. Thanks.

BOP Dirty?? Don't know that one :???:

Well, I got an answer from a Buick forum. It's from a 1978 - 1982 LeSabre 3.8 Turbo. Hmmmmmmmm - wonder if that engine is a bolt in for the early XJ/MJ V6's? I remember they used to run those T-types at Indy.

Where's the O2 sensor bung hole?? Oh - I see it now - it's on the girl :cheers:

Thanks Eagle. I do have a persuader ;)

Dayem - how did you do that?? I had a beetch of a time WITH compressors getting the 2" OME coils in. All I need to do is unscrew the old bump stops out and remove the stops through the coil gaps and reverse the procedure w. the new ones. I think I can w/o taking out the springs, but just curious if anyone has done it this way. Should have replaced the stops when I replaced the springs, but I was a bonehead that day...........

That's good John, but I could have beaten Arie's price. ;) And he's a good honest guy :cheers:

John; Have a good used one (OEM, not aftermarket) from a 1998 (has the curved blades) I'm willing to part with cheap. Shoot me a PM if interested. Looks like this - direct bolt-in replacement for the older straight blade style. Don

Quick question. My front bump stops are about rotted away. If I jack it up, pull the shock, and let the suspension hang, is there enought room between the spring coils to get the old bump stop out and insert the new one? Have OME 2" lift coils on the front and do not want to pull them out if I don't have to. Thanks Guys.

Oh, and chrome door handles, chrome dual exhaust tips, chrome dash cluster insert, etc. Okay, I'll shut up now....................

That's why I picked it up Mitch. That and the price. :D There are some differences though; it's about 1/2" wider in diameter, and a bit thicker on the outside rim. The horn internals are identical. Good feel to it. I've never seen a Buick wheel like this, and am curious what model it came from.

According to my MJ parts manual, your MJ I6 power steering pumps carry different part numbers: 53005437 (87-90) and 52037565 (91-92). But sometimes that doesn't mean anything and they are interchangable. Just eyeball them closely, compare the mounting brackets, etc. Might just work!

Picked up this steering wheel at a yard sale and stuck it on. All I know is that is was still in the box (no part number), and it's from a Buick but I have no idea which model or year. Anyone know?? It looks better in person than in the pic. Got to lose the tri-shield Buick emblem though.............

(even has chrome mirrors for ya, Don!) Jeff I must say UNL1MTD, I admire your taste in wheels and exterior mirrors. All you need now are chrome bumpers, chrome grille, chrome tailgate guard, chrome tailgate handle, chrome headlight doors, etc. etc. etc. :cheers: