HOrnbrod

Thanks Alex. I have the complete set of FSM's for my 91, good to go there. But any pics of the OHC install would be great. You can send via my PM email address. Thanks, Don

A Waggy. Should have known with the faux woodgrain bezel. Nah, that sounds like a wiring/sensor nightmare not worth the effort. But I think I'll slide down to the yard tomorrow and remove everything else I need to finish the ohc.

Thanks, I'll relook my XJ console. I know where to get the missing sensor half and the mounting bracket under the headliner. I have also fitted a GM auto-dimming mirror w. two Hologen map side lights, so I'm set for interior light. I'd love to lay hands on a Sentinel clock module. Like I said, never have seen one in person. Heard it was only provided on some export XJ's. Just curious; how did you luck out and find this jewel? Don

Hey Alex, that's not the 1991 clock I was talking about. What you have is the Sentinel, a rare option and only the second one I've seen. Did this Sentinel clock come w. your 91 MJ? Here's the common 1991 clock I plan on using for the Benz ambient temp display. The Benz LED module fits well into the bottom panel where I now have some tacky indicator lights mounted. I will use the same lens as the clock to match green clock numerals and move the indicator lights up a row: and I also thought about using the XJ overhead console (I have one) but it's too long for the MJ roof and needs to be trimmed.

Been wanting to accurately read the outside temp on my dash for some time. After taking some measurements and having some familiarity with older W201 and W124 Benz models, found something that will work and look like factory. There are two empty slots only in the 1991 MJ/XJ factory clock that were reserved for "tell-tale" indicators which never materialized in these Jeeps. See Gojeep's site for the 1991 clock details. So happens the 190E LCD temp module fits perfectly in there with minor trimming. So I have a module, under-bumper sensor, and associated wiring harnesses coming. If anyone is interested in this mod I'll document it. Bit more scientific than sticking your head out the window in the winter to see if the roads are icey slick.

Geeat Alex - would love to see some pics since I'm planning of replacing my rears soon. BTW, still have any good contacts with the stealership?? :brows:

Just curious Detailer, where/how did you luck out and find new rear flares? I know you can still get them from the stealer, but big $$. Also, I guess you know that you'll most likely break off every stud on the flare backing plates when you change them out. I'd start douche-ing them down daily w. PT Blaster for about a month before swapping - maybe you can save a few studs and not have to drill them all out and replace.

-40 C?? AAAAAAAAARRRRRRRRRGH. Reminds me of when I was growing up in Burlington, VT, and they had the daily winter leather seat degree report on one of the local radio stations. The volume of the shrieks the announcer made while setting his arse on the seats was directly proportional to the temperature. Since I'm in Alabama now, no worries about that. But hooking up the seat heating elements should be no problem. Is the heat control switch separate from the seat movement controls? If not, you could use an unused dash switch, or get an XJ switch panel w. the rear defroster switch and use that for the seat heater switch. Even has an indicator light. I use this switch for rear fog lights.

Came from CR Lawrence here: http://www.crlaurence.com/ProductPages/ ... ml?Origin= But I think it's an obsolete part now. :oops: I never use it though anymore since I put the camper shell on the back.

I've been wrestling with the MJ power seat question for some time. Have converted everything else on my MJ to power and added other creature comforts (mirrors, windows, door locks, cruise, delay wipers, power slider, etc.) but have still not figured out a good way to power the seats. Certain MJ's did in fact come with power seats, notably some Eliminators and Laredo models, and I'm still looking for some of these seat brackets, which I will find sooner or later (probably much later). Only then will I convert to power seats. Do not want to fab, weld, or modify XJ brackets to fit, or drill my floor, but of course you can do what you want. I can count the times I've needed my adjust the seats on one hand, and then only the set back on longer trips. Not a high-pri at this time, but if I can find the correct brackets, I'll do it in a heartbeat.

Am I missing something on JohnQ's original post? I thought all MJ's had an electric fans & a mech. fan regardless of years or engines. But all I've owned were HO models. But I have replaced all the slab straight bladed fans with the 1996+ XJ curved blade fans; they are quieter and seem to pass more air.

Got it - thanks Dave. Y'all do good work.

Damn Dave, triple horns!! :D I don't see the adjustment knuckle, or am I blind?? That a fabbed tie rod?

I had a similar problem awhile ago and had an installed good spare. The glass companies wouldn't touch pulling the spare. I tried to remove it myself, and of course ended up breaking it. So my auto insurance took care of replacing it.

All the 91 and 92 HO MJ's I've seen (w/o the HD Towing option) had 9" drums, both the 2WD and 4WD. 'Course, I haven't seen them all :D My 91 had 9" drums until I crapcanned them for disks.

Nice job Jeff. But you must have plenty of gravel indentations in your back and knees. :brows: A set of OME front coils will net you about 2" up front - ride well too.

Earlier D35 rear axles mostly used 10" drums. I think in 1990 or so Chryco changed to 9" drums. C-clip and non C-clip axles sometimes were different. D44's mostly had 10" drums, but some had 9". There were variants of these throughout the years, as there were with a lot of parts on our vehicles.

Ouch! Looks good, but I can see your point in the rear. Assume you are running stock MJ shackles on the rear? Swapping out your MJ shackles with stock XJ shackles will drop the rear about an inch - cheap fix. They can be had for about $15 shipped from Crown. I used them for awhile when I put in the 5-leaf Metric Ton springs to lower the @$$ end a bit. Otherwise give Joe a call at General Spring here: http://www.generalspringkc.com/ He may have some soft MJ rear 4-leafs at a better price. Good guy to deal with.

PB Blaster. It's a penetrant (sp?) that dissolves rust over time and repeated applications. Comes in a spray can. Seeing you're from SD, rust may not be a problem, but it will help anyhow.

Good point. Also get new leaf pack U-bolts. Not good to reuse the old ones; they are usually stretched out to max after the initial and followup torques. I'd get these from Alcan also if you go with them, because they will prolly recommend 5-leaf or more springs, and you'll need longer bolts. Also Charles will want to know which rear end you'll be using for the correct U-bolt ID.

Can't help with the RE kit, but can with Alcan. Talk to Charles Carter. Great guy. He will ask about 100 questions regarding weight distribution, lift requirements, and how you plan to use it, etc. You will also most likely have to take some measurements. They can design a custom set based on your requirements, or copy the stock specs from the regular 4-leaf or HD 5-leaf metric ton springs if you give him the part numbers. Last time I talked to them (over a year ago) lead time was 3-4 weeks to design, build, and ship. Cost ran about $220/spring excluding shipping.

Roger that, I agree with your desired maximum lift. If I'm reading your posts correctly, your MJ has the rear SOA, but you bought it like that? 3.3"-3.7" is approx. correct for a SOA lift, a bit low, but that is probably because of your leaf spring condition. How many leafs in your spring packs, 4 or 5? Also, how does the rear level up with the front? The stock height of the rear is about 1"-1-1/2" higher (according to my FSM) than the front. Good way to check this is the measurement from the center of the wheel cap to the flare bottoms.

The measurement is taken from the top of the axle straight up to the frame rail, not to the middle of the bump stop. Did you include the length of the bump stop in the measurement? If so, add the length of the nump stop for your lift.

Sounds like you have a bastard leaf pack that's not working. And no, bad shocks will not cause sag. If you are looking for "a few inches" via extended shackles, prolly won't happen. Rule of thumb is for every inch your extended shackle is longer than your existing shackles, you can expect 1/2" of lift. IOW, if your existing shackles are 5" hole to hole, and you put on 7" hole to hole extended shackles, expect 1" of lift. Extended shackles alter the arch and lift characteristics of the leaf pack, and will wear them out pretty quickly, and could cause spring wrap. More better for you (if you nee a few inches in the rear) is to go SOA (about 4-5" lift), get a new set of 5-leaf Metric Ton packs (about 2" lift), or get something like Rusty's 4" lift spring packs (4"-5" lift) and remain SUA. Just my 2-cents.

Measure from the top of the rear axle tube to the underside of the frame rail just inboard of the bump stop. For 4WD models this distance should be 9.2 inches, plus or minus 1/2". (For 2WD models the dimension is 8.2" plus/minus 1/2"). However higher your measurement is the lift on your rig, regardless of tire size.