HOrnbrod

VW Type 1 Beetle interior lights work fine, like Ebay item, #250079677937. These are 3-position, OFF, ON, DOOR SWITCHED. Here's a pic, although not a very good one: No, just ran a hot wire to them and switch on when needed. Have plenty of light from the door switches w. the kickpanel lights and pillar lights.

Yeah Jeff, yours did plug into the existing harness connectors. They must have changed the harness connectors in 1991. I got my lights from a 1990 MJ, and the connectors were different. But no big deal.

I've never seen an MJ w/o lights in the B-pillars. Like everyone says they suck even when they work, but you can see your hand in front of your face, that's about it. The Bosch VW Beetle interior lights pop right in the same hole. The kick panels lights were an option, but your harness should be there. These lights can be had from most any XJ at the yard and plug right in. These operate off the door switches. For overhead map lights, I put in a GM rear view mirror w. built in map lights; it slides right over your existing windshield mirror mount. Ran an ignition switched hot wire up the drivers side windshield pillar. Also used this same wire to power lighted vanity mirrors I pulled from an XJ. So there are lots of options.

From a previous post: "Stock height: Measure from the top of the axle tube to the underside of the frame rail just inboard of the bump stop. For 4WD models this distance should be 9.2 inches, plus or minus 1/2". For 2WD models the dimension is 8.2" plus/minus 1/2"." After installing metric tonne springs my distance went from 8" to 11". My old springs were sagging a bit.

Hey Jeff; My normal Jeep-specialty yard has several wrecked XJs w. the early black buckets. Might even be some early MJs w. black buckets too. Don't remember the details because I was not looking for black, but I did see several. They never crush MJs in this yard since most of the help are MJ freaks. Next time I'm up there I'll check it out. It's nice to have the seat back fold option to store your junk. Don

If your 5-leaf springs were built using the original metric tonne spring specs for the earlier 2 thick leaf / three thin leaf configuration and a 9-1/2" arch, the payload is 1500#. See the MJ 5-Leaf Metric Tonne Leaf Springs thread in the Pub forum for all the specs. If you go back to the original SUA config, and use an extended shackle like the TeraFlex, you should expect a total lift of at least 3-1/2".

WOO-HOOO! Made a great score at a strange yard today. Was returning from a trip down south of home in my MJ on the back roads, and spotted a 2-door 1990 Cherokee Laredo in a yard I'd never been in before. Slammed on the brakes and cruised in. The XJ had a blown engine, not wrecked, had 95K on the clock, and the interior was absolutely perfect. 2-door Laredos are RARE, and I've been looking for seats from an XJ Laredo for a long time. Ended up getting the two front buckets, the dash bezel, and the overhead console for $75. I have the 4-door Laredo seats in my rig now, and it's a major PITA because I can't fold the seat backs forward to access the back space. Sometimes life is good..............

Just curious warf90, where did you get your new metric tonne springs? I recently installed a new set on my rig (factory configuration, SUA) and netted 2-1/2" of lift. I have no experience with SOA springs.

My 91 is an HO and I still have the Power/Comfort switch. I think they were gone in 1992. Much crisper shifting in the Power mode, and gas mileage is about 2 MPG better. I leave it there.

I'm thinking just a bad shock since the other three were fine. My truck is never abused, except when I curse at it occasionally. :mad:

With the shock off the vehicle, if you compress the shock then turn loose, it will slowly return on it's own to full extension. One of my rears did nothing when I compressed it. It had pressure when compressing, but none on the return. The other rear shock was normal. The two fronts were okay too. So I had one blown rear shock after about 1500 miles. Unsat.......

Here's the pinouts for 91+ models, but the earlier models are most likely the same.

Got the OME shocks on today, N35C's up front; N40L's in the rear. I had no idea of the positive difference they would make. Super product, well worth the extra $$. Had Monroe SensaTracs on previously, installed new about four months ago, and one of the rear shocks was blown out already. You could compress it all the way down, and it just sat there, did not extend back out at all. POS............

Well Eagle, the only thing I agree on the above is losing the single diaphram booster. More junk AMC/Mopar equipped our trucks with. Obviously they corrected this in 1995 with the XJs, too late for our trucks. And the prop valve works just fine w. rear disks IF it's functional and adjusted according to the FSM. If not functional, or beyond adjustment, dump it and put in an aftermarket prop valve.

X2 on the D44 w. disks Jeff. I just think decent brakes on your rig rank as the #1 priority. The 9" MJ drums the factory deemed okay are now antiquated and inadequate - period, even if you faithfully perform regular preventive maintainance. Lifts and larger tires just compound the problem. All the great upgrades you have paid for in $$ and sweat go away quickly if you can not stop in a panic situation, plus somebody most likely gets hurt. I learned the hard way, so if I seem to be BIG on brakes, please excuse the occasional rants. Any brake upgrade done right is IMHO the best way to protect yourself, your rig, and others. Okay, I be done now.............

I believe the brakes are the issue (will not use an exclamation point). I was replying to Jeff's original problem. W. rear disks you do not have to deal with rotted out adjuster cables, frozen star wheels, etc. etc. etc. And if the rear prop valve was working properly before converting to disks, it will work just fine after too. The F/R brake bias does not change (IF the prop valve was working and adj. right before), unless you lift the rear, then you increase the length of the linkage arm to match the distance as the lift.

The ZJ OME shock N40L will work fine on the rear for up to a rear 3" lift. Shock specs are 15.6"-25.8". It's an eye-to-eye mount shock, but you need to press out the lower mount sleve. Works great.

Hey Jeff; MJ rear drums are a major PITA maintainance-wise. And even if they're right, they don't stop worth a damn. More better to convert to disks. Sure you have thought about it, it's well worth it. Just my 4 cents (inflation.......) Don

Hey, thanks John. No probs w. these wheels on the back looks like. Notice on the front there are no center caps. Probably 2WD like mine. I just shimmed one of the front wheels out a little over 1/4" with some washers as an experiment, and looks like that's all I will need to get the center cap on. Plenty of stud left too. I've had it for today though...............

Yes, 2WD. I have aftermarket dust caps on now, shortest I could find, and the wheel spindle butts right against the cap. I'm thinking of a couple of aftermarket steel spacer plates, maybe 1/4" or 5/8" thick might shim the wheel out enough to get the cap on. Realize it will give me less thread on the wheel studs, but still should be enough. Anyone used these?

Got the wheels/tires and tried a test fit. No rubbing anywhere full turn, although they do stick out about an inch more as Eagle said they would. But no problem hitting the flares. However, there is a snag (isn't there always?). Up front the wheel hub dust cap sticks out about 1/4" too far so I can't get the centercaps on. So either I run w/o centercaps in the front, or remove the hub dust cap. I don't like either way, and am very open to suggestions. Thanks

Use a drift punch to beat out the rivet hardened steel center pins first, then drill the rivets out with a 1/4" bit. Use 1/4 x 20 x 1/2" long stainless bolts and nuts to bolt the new regulator in.

No worries, no danger of that. 8)

Thanks Eagle. Thinking that the new 5-leaf metric ton spring packs in the back and the OME lift coils up front (also have new OME shocks coming), the stiffer suspension w. less body roll will compensate for the (1"?) movement out toward the flares.

Thanks Oizarod, but that's what I don't want, LCA problems. Just curious if anyone has tried these wheels on their rig.