HOrnbrod

Correction: Wheels are stamped 25.4MM inside, which equates to 5.5" BS, not offset, I think. Pls. correct me if I'm wrong. Just curious if these will clear the LCAs up front.

X2. The regulator is shot.

Anyone used the below 05 Wrangler wheels on their MJ? Specs are 15 x 8", 4.5" offset. Tires are Goodyear GSA 30x9.5x15. Should I anticipate any clearance and/or rubbing problems front or back? Have 2-1/2" lift. Thanks very much

I meant sometimes they rust up so bad the arm doesn't move. According to my FSM, this is where the arm should be with the bed unloaded. The arm is slightly higher than parallel to the axel.

Or you could extend the length of the linkage rod from the prop valve arm to the axle the same length as your lift measurement. That way you still retain proper operation of the height sensing valve (provided it was still working originally).

Here's an old post on how to wire fog lights in using the factory dash switch. It might work for you. I only use fogs on low beam: Okay, I've done this using most of my factory wiring on my 1991. The dash fog light switch gets input power on pin B (the VIO/WHT wire on my 91) from the headlamp dimmer switch. This is to prevent the fog lights from coming on when the high beams are on. Cut this wire and splice a fused 12V source which comes on with the ignition. Pin C (the BRN/WHT wire) on the switch is the output which goes to the fog light relay. If you don't have factory fog lights, you probably do not have a fog light relay. You can pick the BRN/WHT wire up on pin #10 of the 10-pin connector located in the left front of the engine compartment. Use your meter to identify it when your turn your fog light switch ON; you'll have 12V. Run a new wire from pin #10 to the coil side of a new auxillary relay. This will apply 12V to the relay coil to energise the relay. Of course you have to hook up the other pins of the aux relay too, which are normally pinned out like this: Pin 86: 12V from fog light switch to the coil Pin 85: Ground (other side of the coil) Pin 87: 12V relay contact input, NO, (I picked up my 12V on pin 6 of the 10-pin connector above, same way the factory did it) Pin 30: 12V relay contact (NC) output to your lights By using the aux relay you protect your dash fog light switch since all the amp draw from the lights goes through the relay contacts. You can run at least two 100W halogen lights or more, depending on the amperage rating of the aux relay you put in. Make sense? It's pretty easy if you have the factory wiring schematics.

Is the N33 eye-to-eye?

Been on the phone some more today w. the OME reps. To clarify the above, the N35 series are for made for the FRONT XJ/MJ shocks. The OME N36 series, made for the XJ rears, come in N36 (too short for the MJ w. NO lift), and the longer N36L (24.48" extended - 14.4" collapsed) which are almost the same specs as the standard unlifted MJ shock (14.4 - 23.0). So the N36L might not work on an MJ with a lift over 2". The only rear OME shock that will work for a lifted MJ up to 3" is the N40L (the ZJ rear shock, eye-to-eye, specs in a previous email). OME explained that the N40L factory valving is set up to be used in conjunction with the rear coil ZJ springs, but "should" be just fine for the MJ leaf springs too, since the N36L and N40L valving are nearly the same. So that's what I'm going with, the shocks are on the way, and my rig will be an "MJ test bed" for OME. Good stuff. Damn, our MJs have long-@$$ shocks with the SUA config.

From Chi-town? No way, rustus maximus.

The N35, N35C, and N35L are the recommended shocks for Cherokees XJs.

Okay, been on the phone with Dirk who referred me to the OME engineers in WA. Anyhow, this is what they recommend for a lifted MJ: Front w. 1"-3" lift: OME N35 (firm) or N35C (Comfort) (15.25"-23.75") Rear w. 1"-3" lift: OME N40L (15.6"-25.8") (Actually a ZJ shock) For higher lifts (3"-5"), the OME N35L will work up front but they don't make one long enough at this time for the rear.

You're right, rears are eye mounted on each end. Thinking of XJ's on top. In any event though, looks like you might need longer shocks in back.

Must have missed that. The MJ rear shocks do use bar pins. You can use the same bar pin eliminators (Rocky Road style) on the rear shock upper mount and the front shock lower mount. Adds 1-1/4" overall length to the shock. But even that might not be enough a 3" lift. Quadratech sells an OME 14.50"-24.50" rear shock which should work fine w. a 3" lift, especially using bar pin eliminators for a little more length. At least the math says it will.

The RS5118 shock specs are 14.00"-22.25". Full extension for a stock shock is 23". These Rancho shocks should be clunking too over bumps it seems. A friend of mine has an MJ with the same lift as yours and Rancho recommended the RS5116 rear shocks (14.875"-24.000") for him, and RS5239 fro the front. And he's using barpin eliminators too which also add another 1-3/4" overall length to the shock. Sounds like your shocks might be too short, and you need to extend them. Bar pin eliminators just might do it.

The OME 14"-21.5" is LESS extension than the OEM shocks (13.2"-24.4"). And with 3" of lift you are right at the extended limit of the OME shock. Could be why it's clunking. Odd that the Rancho shocks don't do the same thing though. What is the eye-to-eye dimension of the rear Rancho shocks you have on your rig now?

jeepdoggydogB, been doing some research for OME shocks for my MJ too. If you go to Quadratech's site, look up OME shocks, and they have a full selection of eye-to-eye (rear) and eye-to-pin (front) shocks. They give both the fully extended and collapsed lengths. Standard shock lengths for an unlifted MJ are 13.2"-21.1" (front) and 14.8"-23.0" (rear), according to the Monroe web site. I have been running Monroe SensaTracs for a couple of years now, and I know these lengths are right. So if you know what your lift is, it's easy to order the correct shocks. If you use bar pin eliminators (which I am going to do), figure in the 1-3/4" extension they will give you. BTW, anyone know of a cheaper source for OME springs? Thanks; Don

If you are asking about JohnQ's VW lights, they have a 3-way switch built in; OFF-ON-DOOR SWITCHED just like the originals. Originals had 3 wires, GND-HOT-DOOR SWITCHED. The GND wire goes to the middle (slider) switch position, the HOT and DOOR SWITCHED wires go to the left/right swittch positions respectively. Real easy if you ohm the VW light switch out with a meter, then ID each wire.

Been hectic here lately - will pop one out and shoot you a pic soon as I can.

You have to remove the four bolts that hold the seat bottom on, slide the seat bottom out, then unbolt the bracket from the curved seat back frame. Eight bolts total, all the same size.

Yeah, I have those same Laredo-trim seats in my MJ from a 2-door (so the seat back will tilt forward) but do not have the rocker option. Very rare. These Laredo trim seats w. the big side bolsters are much more comfortable than the base model seats IMHO. There are also two plastic trim pieces available that bolt on to on the two outside edges of the track. They conceal the track when you open the door, useless except to make it look a little better. Another thing I found out is that the bucket seat bottoms are interchangable so you can swap them around because the passenger seat bottom is usually a lot firmer. Only thing though is the inboard seat belt holder strap is now outboard. But I just installed two new ones I cut out of some raggedy XJ seat bottoms I found in the yard.

Correct, 95 or 96 XJ booster and master cylinder combo.

Oh crap - sorry I missed that Nathan. You've come up with another viable option. It's amazing what an updated booster and master cylinder does to improve the brakes. It's also amazing why Mopar/AMC waited all those years to give these vehicles decent brakes. It's not like the technology wasn't there. Don

No, it won't just plug in. Did this a few years ago, but I do remember I had to ohm it out through the switch, cut the existing connector off and solder/crimp the wires to the correct terminals. I'll have to pop one off and shoot you a pic. I see it fits fine though..........

Oops, just noticed - Pete posted the link. I've only done it on my 91, which was pure bolt in. Easiest way is to pick up a 91+ pedal assembly. Also, the booster arm for auto and manual trannies bolt on opposite sides of the brake pedal, so get the correct pedal assembly for your application. No experience here on pre 91's, just what I've been told by guys who have done this mod.

No it will not. The pedal is different 1990 and below, so mods will be required. Either you have to get the 91 or above pedal assembly, or redrill the booster arm hole into your existing pedal, or get the pre -91 booster arm installed in your new booster. It's explained in detail in the link I posted previously in this thread.