HOrnbrod

How true. Of course during those post WWII years, we were busy pouring $$ and technology back into Japan and Germany and building their infrastructure back up. Then in the sixties and seventies they started kicking our economic butts. :nuts: Now the Chinese and the other developing countries are doing it to everyone.

Oh, and drove for over a year with zero vibes until the gear change. WTF?

vibes after regear? sounds like driveshaft ballance time :D A lift won't change the driveshaft balance. It is probably a pinion angle adjustment that needs to be done. Whenever I lift more then one inch or so I replace the u-joints because the change in operating angles can cause the u-joint to induce vibration. I been fighting this for some time and agree, a gear change should not create vibes, but it did in my 2WD. 35-50 MPH under acceleration and coast. New Tom Woods driveshaft w. new joints, no change. "Borrowed" new wheel/tire set, no change. Driveshaft angles are right Tim, put 3* shims in the rear to lower the pinion, u-joint operating angles 2* in front, 3* in back, no change. New tranny mount, no change. New front wheel bearings, no change. Flex plate inspection, looks good, no cracks. 1" longer slip joint, no change. Suspension/steering good, mostly new parts. Aligned, etc. etc. So got to go back to where it all started, the diff. Only things left are slop in the pinion, bad wheel bearing, and/or bent axle. Talk about going crazy. :mad: Sorry to perhaps steal this thread.

Did a 3" lift with new metric ton spring pack and OME front coils on my 91 LWB. All's level within 1/4", but been fighting slight vibes after diff gear change. WTF ?? Trade you my vibes for the level equal :D

I'll shut up now

Hey Pete, not bad-mouthing unions. I said "in the past" when we were kings of the world the unions could do anything they wanted to because we manufactured the best products -period- and everyone wanted them. I've been a union member for almost 30 years. But times have changed man, and we still have to compete with the rest of the world. Union leadership knows this and there are considerable fewer strikes than before. Hey, we'd all like to return to the good old days and get rid of the competition, but it ain't gonna happen any time soon.............

Buy USA is all well and good, and we all can try to, but let's face it, we can not compete economically anymore on both national and global scales. Especially globally. Our factories are shutting down right and left because the unions have driven employee wages up in the past (and not underservedly in all cases), management has passed these costs on the consumer, and the few Made in the USA products left are so damn expensive no one can afford them. So the factories go belly up one after the other. And a lot of folks would rather sit on their butts at home than work for a low wage non-union factory because they can make more $$ from welfare payments. So don't blame it all on the Chinese and other emerging countries; we had something to do with the current state of affairs too...

Jeff-man; Noticing lately you're slipping away from the "built mostly from the junkyard" predisposition. :D Are your yards drying up?? :cheers:

Hey Tom; There were two versions of the original Metric Ton springs manufactured. The springs on the 86-90 MJs (p/n 52003676) had two thick helper leafs and three thin leafs (don't know the actual thickness) and were rated at 1600 lbs. These are the ones I have on my 91. The free arch was 9.75 when I installed them about two years ago, anf they have sagged a little over 1/2". These springs gave me almost a full 3" of lift. The 91-92 Metric Ton springs (p/n 52001825) had one thick helper leaf and four thinner leafs, and were rated at 1580 lbs. These are hard to find. Like the avatar huh? I figured I'd change it because everyone must be getting sick of looking at the chrome on my heep.

Had one. Pulled it out and sold it a few years ago when I added the camper shell since I never opened it anymore. Got it used from a local glass shop. It was a CR Lawrence model EPS700. Don't know if they are even available anymore.

Is a rather large switch huh... shoot a pic of your rear slider.. It was you that got the power slider ,,, right?? :hmm: Err, not really. I just used the existing mounting hole in the dash that the XJ rear defroster switch fits in, and used it to trigger a relay.

no,no,no... you did it all wrong man!!! You need the extra 2 switches for the power sliding rear window and the other for the power sunroof... :nuts: :nuts: Didn't want to clutter up the doors with that crap. Slider switch is on the dash, no sunroof :oops:

your truck isn't pre-wired for it, it's all lay-in stuff though. you need the complete door and crossover harness(es) from a 2 door cherokee with power windows. get those, lay them in, attach the switch panels. you will need a power window regulator and motor from a 4 door cherokee front door for each side. it is a plug and play system, but like I said, w door is the system you want. cut out the rear hatch harness from the cherokee harness, re-wrap the wiring, and ta-da it works. the 4 door system has 2 extra switches and wiring that will need to be cut out, since you don't have rear doors. I've done this, but elected to do just the power windows, not the power door locks. I used a 2-switch window controller panel from a RHD XJ passenger side door for my drivers door, and rear 4DR single switch panel for the passenger side door. Makes for a neater install w/o all the extra switches. The 4-door wiring harness is good to have only for the molded switch connectors that mate to the window switches. For regulators I used the XJ front door Electric Life kit; the XJ regulators have a very bad problem with longevity, and they are slow as hell. I've got the wiring schematic if you need it.

Would definitely like a pair of each if you got em TNT.

Roger, Thanks. The factory inserts were usually the thin shims on each side.

I would personally set it so it is 5* and 5.5*. That should still maintain a decent pinion angle. In the parts manual, the only two caster shims offered by the factory were .9mm and 4.0mm thick. Since I'm only needing an increase of about 2* caster, so which shims or combination of shims world be good for the first shot? Would like to do this just once... :D I would try a thick one first. It should be about right. Thanks TNT.

Tom posted while I was typing my response - just saw his reply. I type slooooooooooow :roll: Tom, on these prototypes, how much did they settle over the three months or so you ran them? Thanks; Don

I would personally set it so it is 5* and 5.5*. That should still maintain a decent pinion angle. In the parts manual, the only two caster shims offered by the factory were .9mm and 4.0mm thick. Since I'm only needing an increase of about 2* caster, so which shims or combination of shims world be good for the first shot? Would like to do this just once... :D

I ASSuME your old spring is on top and the new one is on the bottom. Did you say the top 5-leaf is from an AAL kit? I might be a little concerned about the new springs sagging a bit down the road, as all new leaf springs do, especially since you state you might be a bit lower now than before.

Ill have some in about a week if u can wait. Ive got upper adj. Coming this week so ill pull the lower shims out when i adjust them at the same time i do my uppers. I have adh lowers I can wait :D many thanks :cheers: whenever you're ready.

Since we're on the caster topic, I checked my caster on top of the ball joint. I'm reading 3.5* on the left, 4* on the right, a bit low. Anyone swap in adjustable arms and have any LCA shims left over? I'd like to get the caster back up to 6-7 degrees. Thanks, Don

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Correct Twisty. Already have a set of good used axles from my local yard.

Check the shipping. I'm working with them and it's considerably lower, like 75%.

I crossed the OEM and Dana p/n's, it's a 44 locking diff. I did snap an axle last month, stupid human showing-off driving tricks, so I'm thinking of swapping. I have the Teraflex disk brake kit installed on my 35 now, but according to Teraflex all I need to bolt this into the 44 is a new set of backing plates. 'Course, I'd still have to find D44 axles and seals, but no biggie.