HOrnbrod

I just posted a thread in the MJ Projects forum detailing the installation of EURO side repeater lights if anyone is interested. :cheers:

I used these lights below. They are made by Hella (p/n 161949117) and are the same as those the 1985-1992 VW Jetta 2's and Audis use. Since I wanted them in the same location as the Export XJs, I selected these because they were similar in appearance to the Export XJ side repeaters and the size was nearly a perfect match. They only require two round holes (7/8" and 5/16") to mount. I used a chassis punch for the large hole, then drilled the smaller hole. I made up two 4' 2-wire harnesses and ran the wires out through existing holes in the inner fender and out the large hole in the outer fender. I popped the fender liner loose at the top to fish the wires through. Wires connected to the bulb holder using spade connectors through a rubber boot. Do a smoke test first, then pop the lamp into the holes. It uses a plastic pressure arm to latch in. To change bulbs you slip a stout feeler gauge under the lamp and push in to release the assembly. Then run the wires along the inner fender in the engine compartment out through the front corner light hole, and parallel the connections. The side markers act as running lights when the parking or headlights are on, and of course flash as turn signal repeaters.

Yeah, did think about that, but decided to put them in the OEM location.

Correct, like this: Image Not Found

Forgot to add that - exactly right!

Per this link the 6th digit 6 is only for the 91+ models. AAAAAAARGH, who knows. But it sounds like it's a regulation Eliminator.......... You sure you read that right Hornbrod? Obviously not :eek: . I'm tired, cold, and it's Miller time. :cheers: Been working on and off today installing some side blinker repeaters like the Euro XJs have, and come inside to warm up a bit and check out the CClub forum. Got them in, will wire up tomorrow. Another semi useless mod, but it's fun.

Yes, Christmas comes early for some. :mad: Seriously, super find Wahoosteeler, and congrats. That is a real Laredo, much more rare than the Eliminators. The tweed-looking bucket and door panel upholstery was only used in the Laredo. LWB, right? I'd be interested in the body side moldings if you're not going to use them. I got my MJ way back when in your neck of the woods in Brookneal, VA from the original owners daughter. He kept it in a barn for it's entire life and it was perfect. Wasn't a Laredo though........

If not the filter, check your new regulator. You're getting the correct 7-8 psi delta so the vacuum is pulling your regulator, it's just set low. I guess your new regulator is not adjustable? And check your fuel pressure gauge against a known good gauge too.

Per this link the 6th digit 6 is only for the 91+ models. AAAAAAARGH, who knows. But it sounds like it's a regulation Eliminator..........

Yeah I have an Eliminator. It has decals on the other bed side. A carfax told me it was hit in the bed, so I guess the po just painted and didn't replace the decal on the left side. Does your VIN agree? There was a guy on FleaBay awhile back selling a Laredo MJ that was a dressed up base model. If the VIN says so, UB lucky. :cheers:

I think you either have either the Eliminator or Laredo trim level on your rig. For an 89: If the 8th digit in your VIN is a T it's a Laredo. If the 8th digit in your VIN is a 5 it's an Eliminator

:jump: Great news on Samson! He's a tough guy.

I wanted a cheapy CD player too, and when the old cassette player finally went out, I looked around for a single DIN CD/AM/FM replacement unit. All the aftermarket heads had the crappy blue, purple, green, and red light displays which I hate. And detachable faceplates that I also hate. Found a Mitsubishi head on Ebay that fit in pretty well and wired it in. Used the old cassette player bracket and did not have to trim the dash bezel. Pretty cheap on FleaBay (less than $20) and sounds great. Any single DIN Mitsu 1997+ stand alone head will work.

Boy CW, talk about spoiled! :cheers: If I could caption this, he's glaring at the camera and thinking: PISS OFF MATE! :D :D Our Norwegian Elkhound passed on this summer. She was 15 years old, and had lived with us in five countries around the world. Our 3rd daughter. She died doing what she loved to do, chasing cars, although not very fast anymore. She wasn't hit; she always stayed well clear, and the vet said her heart just gave out. Damn that was tough....

That's something I didn't know. :eek: Won't your A/C compressor be running? I'll have to try this.

When your HVAC blower switch is in the HIGH position, you bypass the resistor speed control pack. You can disconnect the resistor pack, and you will still have a functioning HIGH speed blower. But I would get the connector also, because when you pull it apart it will prolly disintegrate. And no, just a redneck electrical engineer in my past life in the federal gov before I recently retired, have some good sources, have all current FSMs (your best friends), and have had lots of Jeeps. Mechanically; well that's a different story. There are true wizards in this forum in all areas, and most all are willing and very able to help each other.

The blower control speed control resistor module burning up is a common problem. The AMC engineers designed a fail-safe circuit to allow bypassing the voltage dropping speed control resistor pack if it smokes, but under-designed the power rating of the wire-wound resistors, especially if the blower motor gets stuck and sucks up amps. The resistors blow most often before the fuse blows! Anyhow, let us know if a new pack fixes it. A new splice-in connector is also available from the dealer and aftermarket sources if yours is beyond repair.

Yes, you are there. Dayem, that looks terrible. :oops: :eek: Get a new resistor pack from the dealer - it's cheap and clean up the harness plug and you should be good to go. Use some dielectric grease when reassembling. Is all that rust possibly from just weather/age or a leaking heater core?

Oh, and pull yout old one first, will be obvious if it's smoked. You might even luck out and find a wire lose or disconnected.

I show it from the dealer at about $7 and change.

Plenty GM inline sixes still around, available, and will most likely bolt in with no problems. The tranny will be more difficult to replace/repair :D :D

Aye, understand. It' worth it's weight in gold. May it never die :cheers:

You should have asked your question before you shelled out the $$ for the new HVAC dash control switch. :oops: :oops: But that's how I always learn too - the hard way.........

If the fan operates only on the HIGH position, the blower motor resistor is most likely shot. Common problem, it's in the blower housing. P/N 56000522.

Interesting wrecker in the background. What is it??