HOrnbrod

Not sure. Maybe Wildman can answer. Last time I tried I was wrong. :oops:

Your insurance card isn't much of an authenticity authority. From the Wildman: Your 8th digit in the Vin will tell you what package you have - For a swb - 1= Base (sportruck) P= Pioneer S= Chief T= Laredo Run your VIN to know for sure.

I like DOOM. Image Not Found

Well said Pat. Don't know if that's the one, but maybe. Laredo MJs may or may not have power windows/locks or cruise, but will have the rest. If the VIN checks out as an authentic Laredo, it will be worth some serious $$ in the future. Like only 5% of 87-88 MJs were Laredos. Eliminators were much more common. Most all Laredos were 2WD, but I've never seen or heard of one w. the 2.5L 4cy. But who knows? The Laredo was the model I looked and looked for, but never could find, so I built my own Laredo. :cheers:

Har-har mate, I can tell you're sorry. :D I'm pretty sure it would have lasted until eternity if I hadn't been a dumbass and used synthetics. But if that's the worst thing to happen (and it is so far), IB fine with it. :cheers:

Got that right. We be about at that point now.............

Not talking particularly about you Brett. But how can anyone even give a valid guesstimate w/o even seeing it?

Still comin' down Jeff-man but more like sleet now. The Govna' down in Montgomery has cancelled tomorrow. :eek:

If he does, I wouldn't mind posting it up on the strokers forum.

Nobody's even seen this truck yet and everyone's bad-mouthing it. WTF?? Where is the seller located? Nawth of the Mason-Dixon line? If so, maybe less than a $750 truck because of cancer. The Laredo is indeed rare, but I've never heard of one w. the 2.5 four. Anyone run the VIN? If you ever receive pics, I'd like to see them.

Exactly right Dirty, 66" to be exact. I think that's why the local shop couldn't balance it.

Here's an email I received from Lee Hurley, owner of Hesco: Don, I don't have any problem with synthetics, you have to use compatible weight when changing over. 20W/50 is the grade I recommend for the stroker as the piston moves a long way in the bore. It is a common leak with Jeeps and some time is just an over fill that will start the seals to leak. One of the main problems some have is over filling, never fill to the full mark when changing always leave 1/4" down for heat expansion. Remember with this stroke the rods are closer to the oil and will make oil foam if over filled. This will cause oil leaks. Changing the rear seal is not a big job if needed. Lee I may have been guilty of slightly overfilling at oil changes in the past. :cry: So maybe I can't blame the rear main leak entirely on the Mobil 1.

Rare site indeed. Have about an inch already. The sound of crashing vehicles soon to follow...... :eek:

Hey Belto - I like your avatar better! :eek: :D :eek:

Too bad he doesn't have 24# sets available. The stroker guys would be all over them. Also, I read somewhere that the OEM keeper clip for the electrical collection doesn't fit on the Ford/Bosch injectors. This true?

There are no "pretty" local shaft builders (oops :D ) here, mostly they are basically incompetent. Maybe you got some pretty shaft guys in WI? :D Seriously, redneck engineering aside, which sometimes works in some cases, driveshafts, like gear changes, IMHO, should be trusted to the proven experts. Not saying you have to buy their product, only seek their advice.

"I'd say do the swap and lift it to where it belongs, then drive it in (cut a coke can in half and tape it around the output) to the driveshaft shop and have them do the measurements" Coke can? local driveshaft shop? You must be from 'Bama. :cheers:

You're a sick man JT. :jump:

The last OE Bosch pump I got from NAPA (# BSHN67628 I'm almost positive) a couple of years ago included the sender. I didn't use it and it may still be laying around. But this was for a 91; the Renix pumps have reversed polarity, but this can be corrected by reversing the polarity on the gauge when wiring it up.

Thanks for all the replies guys. Like I originally mentioned, the stroker has never had had syn oil ever until the last oil change. The motor has been in for almost 2-1/2 years, almost 17K miles. Never leaked until the last oil change. Coincidence - I don't think so. I am running the Hesco high-volume oil pump, and my oil gauge basically stays pegged most of the time except at idle. I'll see if the new Chevron DELO oil slows down the leak, but I suspect Eagle is right and I'll prepare to do the RMS. I'm done with synthetics, except for the diff. Oh - and last time I was down at Hesco, they recommended switching to synthetic oil, which was a major reason why I tried it.

And upsetting................... Don't forget the 2KW sound system and the under carriage painted the same color as the body. And the ground effects kit which can be used to plow slow in the winter. :D :D :D

Gawd - I think I'm going to be sick He must have had a damn good reason. :D

Yup. Same p/n from 86-91.

X2. Finish the lift, get all the running gear in, then measure. Tom Woods has a good procedure for doing this on his site. He'll be happy to help ya too. That's what I did with mine. Better doing it this way as you can allow for more slip yoke spline engagement too (if you're not going SYE). funny thing is in a previous post i told a guy to do the same thing.. lift them measure.. here i am trying to have it done beforehand. :nuts: Since my old driveshaft could not be balanced (my local shop said the rubber sheath was decomposed and shifting around), I got a new one from Tom. HD greasable u-joints, YJ Spicer slip yoke, and shipped to the door for $220. Stronger and lighter than the old one. Thought this was a pretty good deal.

Done it before - not fun. :cry: Any job I can eliminate (or postpone) is good. :cheers: