HOrnbrod

X2. Finish the lift, get all the running gear in, then measure. Tom Woods has a good procedure for doing this on his site. He'll be happy to help ya too. That's what I did with mine. Better doing it this way as you can allow for more slip yoke spline engagement too (if you're not going SYE).

WallyWorld had Mobil 1 syn oil on sale, so I picked some up and put it in my motor last oil change for the first time. Not 200 miles into this oil change, my rear main started leaking. I have not had a leak of any kind since I put the stroker in over two years ago! :mad: I let it run it's course until I had 3K miles, then dumped the crap out today and put in a fresh batch of Chevron DELO 400LE 10W-40 with a new big Mobil 1 filter. Hopefully the rear main will seal itself back up, but I'm not holding my breath. I had read everywhere that syn oil can cause leaks to start; IT DOES! :eek:

You're not exactly talking to a 4WD expert here Pete. :oops: Recommendations? Don't scream, but I want to keep my D35 for now because it has the TeraFlex disks and new 4.11 gears. And I can reuse the TeraFlex kit on a D44 w. different backing plates if and when the D35 breaks.

Yup, does sound like a plan. :D Too bad you were not closer. In a lot of places out in the sticks down here the word has not gone out on MJ values. I'm certain eventually I WILL find an excellent 4WD MJ donor w. a good body, probably w. a blown engine, and been sitting awhile. Tons of Fords and Chevies p/u's like that people will give away free just to get rid of them. I'll swap out front axles; stick a good JY engine in the donor MJ, and hopefully break even by selling the new 2WD. Plus will save another MJ from the wreckers. :cheers:

There was a NOS unit that sold on Ebay awhile back. They pop up occasionally. Here's the install manual: http://72.242.142.7/hornbrod/Ramsey/Winch/Ramsey%20Hidden%20Winch%20XJ.pdf

The dealer part number for the gauge temp sensing unit is 53005056.

The dealer part number for the gauge temp sensing unit is 53005056.

Yeah, that's the key - finding a decent 4WD MJ for cheap. Not easy to do now as you said. I've found several sitting in fields while driving around AL, GA, TN, and MS, but all were 2WD. Great bodies on most of them though. The TN rig on this thread I'm sure will be too much. But I'll find the right one eventually. :D

Plan is convert mine to 4WD, then sell the donor MJ as a 2WD. They're worth a lot more with a good body than XJs.

:nuts: :nuts: :nuts: :nuts:

Hey Chris, no tricks, just basic electrical troubleshooting. If you are unsure of how to do these things, and mechanical troubleshooting too, invest in a set of Factory Service Manuals. They can be found on Ebay quite often. If you plan do most of your own work on your MJ, they will pay for themselves many times over. :cheers:

Gee......A ComancheClub magnet card just found a new use :D I knew there was a reason you order them. In the add - "will tickle your Jeep Comanche lover bones when u see it in person." :jump: Yeah Bob, I preparing to be tickled. I just don't like the way this ad was written up. But I guess it appeals to some. :nuts: :nuts: Since I plan to be in the AO, might as well take a peek if time permits. Too bad it's not a POS, since all I really want is the 4WD stuff.

Yeah, even $3K is insane. I ran the VIN; it's never been out of TN so I doubt if it was repainted because of body cancer and the mileage looks legit. I have to go to Chattanooga in a couple of days, so I'll try to see it, and make sure I bring a magnet. :eek: :eek:

That's right up the road. Think I'll slide up there and take a peek.

Let's continue the highjack :D . I have also eliminated the water control valve, actually the heat seems to work much better now. And what is your gas tank overflow bottle? :eek:

This will help you narrow it down: 1. Ignition to RUN. Pull the wire off the sensor. The gauge should go to C. If not, 2. Touch the coolant sensor wire to ground. The gauge should go to H. If it does, replace the sender. If it does not, you have an open circuit to the gauge, or the gauge itself is bad.

Well, you can always wire in a manual overide switch. Be good to have if you're wheeling. But the original aux fan has been doing it's thing at the right time for 17 years now, so I doubt I will. Here's a generic schematic for 2-fan wiring with a controller that shows an overide switch. Image Not Found

Well, looks like Favre and the Pack will have to get by the NEW YAWK FOOTBALL GIANTS now. :D The Giants have won like 9 straight on the road; Green Bay will be like another home game for them next week. As long as it's not snowing...... As far as the Pats, they will cruise over the Chargers easily with their injuries. Giants/Pats Super Bowl, no question (depending on the GB weather). :D

Then you depend on human intervention. In your case, maybe that's okay. In mine, sometimes okay, sometimes not. :cry: I'd rather be looking out the window than looking at gauges all the time. I like my power windows too. :cheers:

Yes it does, 3/8" NPT. What sensor do you have on your stat housing now? What are the temp ON/OFF markings on it? You probably know this, but this switch (I prefer sensor, but it is a switch :D ) can only be used to apply a ground to the coils of a relay, not to activate the fan itself.

Didn't see he had a non-HO - sorry. But actually the Corvette temp sensor switch does work to trigger an electric fan relay. Borg Warner part #TFS19 or Niehoff part #DR137XL, on at 215 and off around 195. I'm gathering parts to get rid of the mechanical fan and replace it with an electrical Zirgo 2500CFM fan. I got one of these Corvette temp sensors (Borg Warner TFS19) and installed it on my thermostat head this weekend, tee-ed in with the existing aux fan switch. I want separate controls for each electric fan. I wired the Corvette temp sensor to apply a ground to the coil of a relay that turned on the Zirgo fan through the power contacts. It worked fine; the fan came on right at 200*, and shut off at 190*. :cheers: I think the '88 MJ idiot light sensor would have a too high temp turnon, prolly about 220* or so.

According to my FSM, the electric fan comes on at 190*. The temp sensor supplies a signal to the ECU; then ECU then sends a ground to the aux fan reply to turn the fan on. Turning on the A/C also provides a ground path to the same relay to turn on the fan. That said, my aux fan has NEVER come on at 190*. The few times it has come on was in the middle of summer after a pit stop of about ten minutes or so. The temp gauge reads about 220* at this time. The fan runs for about five minutes or so, then shuts down at about 190*. So I wouldn't worry about it not coming on until 210-220 degrees or so.

Yes, I did see the oil pump pressure relief valve (non-adjustable) in my 91 FSM. Do the new oil pumps come with a strainer? Most all screw-on type filters have the internal bypass, some set at different pressure ranges by mfg. But the old cannister-type filters did not AFAIK.

I'd love to see Favre and the Pack go out a winner, but only as the NFC champs. PLEASE not the Cowgirls! If GB makes it to the Show, the Pats will kickass; they are awesome at 17-0 and still improving.

Thanks. I've been through my 91 FSM, and it doesn't show anything like that. I know the newer screw-on filters have built-in bypass valves usually set at 11-17 psi depending on the mfg. so maybe the the internal by-pass has been abolished.