HOrnbrod

That spring is about $4 at the dealer, p/n 8350 4860.

Sounds like one of those pulleys (idler, alt, power steering, etc.) riding the belt is noisy. Try listening with a short piece of heater hose or similar and get it down next to each pulley. Might zero it down.

Replacement valve cover grommets are avaiable at the dealer for both the 2.5 and 4.0 engines if this is what you mean. Not on the older style engine as in my pictures at the beginning of this thread. The later style uses replaceable grommets though. ;) Ah, you're right. But he didn't mention what year his MJ was though.

Replacement valve cover grommets are avaiable at the dealer for both the 2.5 and 4.0 engines if this is what you mean.

ASSuME you are putting these on your 89? The wiring for the dash switch to the front connector should already be there. All you have to do is pick up a factory fog light bezel w. switch and plug it in. Here's an old post how I installed mine using the existing harness and adding a relay: "Okay, I've done this using most of my factory wiring on my 1991. The dash fog light switch gets input power on pin B (the VIO/WHT wire on my 91) from the headlamp dimmer switch. This is to prevent the fog lights from coming on when the high beams are on. Cut this wire and splice a fused 12V source which comes on with the ignition. Pin C (the BRN/WHT wire) on the switch is the output which goes to the fog light relay. If you don't have factory fog lights, you won't have a fog light relay. You can pick the BRN/WHT wire up on pin #10 of the 10-pin connector located in the left front of the engine compartment. Use your meter to identify it when your turn your fog light switch ON; you'll have 12V. Run a new wire from pin #10 to the coil side of a new auxillary relay. This will apply 12V to the relay coil to energise the relay. Of course you have to hook up the other pins of the aux relay too, which are normally pinned out like this: Pin 86: 12V from fog light switch to the coil Pin 85: Ground (other side of the coil) Pin 87: 12V relay contact input, NO, (I picked up my 12V on pin 6 of the 10-pin connector above, same way the factory did it) Pin 30: 12V relay contact (NC) output to your lights By using the aux relay you protect your dash fog light switch since all the amp draw from the lights goes through the relay contacts. You can run at least two 100W halogen lights or more, depending on the amperage rating of the aux relay you put in. Make sense?"

I'd forgotten what the cat looked like since I haven't had one on in years so I took a peek at my parts manual. The MJs came from the factory at the time with either a catalytic converter (15) or a resonator (17). Didn't know that. Sounds like your rig has the resonator. Image Not Found

Agree with all the above Bob posted. :agree: However, if none of the above works, check for a clogged cat. If you still have the original, it could be the cause of your problems. I did all of the above; replaced the entire cooling system, but the cat turned out to be cause for me.

3rd brake light pic:

That was my original goal, but I couldn't find one that was flush mount. Had seen a few after market ones with LED's but they were to pricey. Sometimes you can find a good deal on FleaBay for the LED units. I just finished installing one on the back of my camper shell. The wiring for the 3rd brake light is a bit trickey. Because the MJ uses two bulbs in the tail lights for the brake light, and these same bulbs also are for the turn signals, the third brake light will will flash in time to the turn signals when you have the brake pedal depressed (unless your rig has the trailer tow option, which is already wired for an aux brake light ). There are two ways around this. One is to get your 3rd brake light feed directly off the brake pedal switch before the wire goes up in the column to the multi-function switch, or use a logic module, $5.00 from JC Whitney. The module takes inputs from the left and right side brake light and provides a single wire output to the 3rd brake light. Could probably do the same thing with a couple of diodes.

That's was a roe deer, originally about the size of a case of Millers with legs. Looks bigger now....... :eek: :eek:

Got it - Thanks. I'll give them a shot in my stroker.

Got a number on these Eagle? Far as I know, NGK does not make a copper plug like Champions, correct?

Some Wrangler 15" wheels (Ravines, Grizlies, etc.) have a 5" backspace and are 8" wide so they stick out a bit more and may rub the flare. Mine did not, but some do.

Don't know about the standard trannys, but there are two breather tubes on the AW4, one on the main tranny and one on the tail shaft extension.

Well said Jeff-man. :cheers: mudhound0530, might want to check your axle tube vent too.

Ah CW, you have made my WEEK!. The temp has been in the twenties at night since New Years Eve, and even went to the ungodly depth of 18* last night in N. 'Bama, and will be about the same tonight. Thanks for sharing your frigid experience, and may I never forget the good old days. Don, Rockville, CT High School, Class of 1968 :cheers:

PM sent.

http://www.drivetrain.com/dana35.html

May or may not work. Some universal sensors are made with thermocouple wires and are hard to solder and/or splice and have a good connection w/o impedance. I've done it by silver soldering because my headers require a longer than stock harness. Your best bet go down to your good old local AutismZone, and get a Bosch replacement O2 sensor with the connector. These work fine for stock applications.

That's not the only dealer around is it? I've got 3-4 within 30 miles; some are anal, some are not. Why not try another?

Bacon - You're right, and Also it for a 1985 Comanche :teehee: So that makes it a very rare item. I just lost all my faith on e-bay again with a$$holes like this :shake: Most of us here know that tail light can be bought from $25-35, in that condition. and better ones sell for $50 tops. Kind of wants me to go clean out my parts, I think I have 3-4 pairs of tail lights :brows: Greedy bastid. :eek: Probably some fish will buy it too. I got two NEW tailights from the stealer last year for $80.

agreed glass packs aren't loud enough. but i have a solution.... 1/4'' drill bit That's what we call an Alabama Cat down here :D :D Image Not Found

Congrats getting your heat back, sort of. Your heater core was probably clogged so long the deposits are calcified in the smaller passages. Since you removed the water control valve, coolant will be circulating constantly throught he core, and it's very possible it might get flushed a little better eventually. Drive it a couple of weeks then do a complete cooling system flush with a good cleaner and the heat will probably get a lot better. :cheers:

Even better disks require NO maintainance until replacement time, just periodic inspections. Would be great if everyone kept their drum shoes properly adjusted, but that doesn't happen. Plus there are no exposed springs, cams, and/or levers to rust up and break....... I'll stick with disks.

Yeah, that's most likely the original O2 sensor. :eek: Agree with BLHTAZ. Douche that thing down for a day or two w. PB to hopefully break some of that rust up a bit. When you get it out, run a thread chaser through it to clean up the bung threads. Same threads as a spark plug; Autism Zone carries them. And use some anti-seize on the new sensor. Good luck getting that thing out