HOrnbrod

I have. Here's the one you need: Blown slant six. @ 4250RMP this puppy cranks out 340.3ft/lbs of torque and 275.4 HP, and will fit under an MJ/XJ hood w. no mods except a small cutout in the inner left fenderwell for the carb cold air intake. Lot less weight too. A bit wild for the street in this configuration :D , but a de-tuned version I think would be an ideal candidate for an MJ.

I think the black interior was only available in 1986 and possibly 1987 MJs, so it's the rarest of colors. Some older Waggys and XJs had black interiors too.

Hey man - your rig looks great. I like what you have now better than your brother in laws dads truck. Although a similar color change could help. I'm thinking of the newer front end too.

Glad you got 'em mate and ignored the babbling. Let us know what condition they are in - these are hella hard to find. :cheers:

Sorry...............

Item 310006884463

That seems kind of high. :eek: At our local muffler shop I had a new 2-1/2" exhaust pipe from my header, new Walker (the Dynomaxs and Magnaflows were too loud for me) free flow muffler w. dual outlets, and dual pipes from the muffler, over the axle and exiting under the bumper for less than $200.

BTW there's a decent looking tank on Ebay, item # 310007354141. You can see the dimple in the tank.

Here's a couple of pics of the mounting screws (2). When you remove the fender liner and place the tank up in there, there is a small protruding alignment bump on the inner fender about midway where the tank sits. The tank has a dimple that this bump fits into. You just slide it forward and back until you feel the bump and dimple mate (that sounds kinda nasty :D). Then mark the rear hole (the one next to the filler tube) with the tank mounting tab, remove the tank, and drill a 1/8" hole. Stick the tank back on, mount the tank through the hole you just drilled, pivot the front of the tank up and mark the front hole under the ECU. It's tight in there to drill, I had to use a 90* drill & cut down bit. Mount the tank w. both screws then mark the center on the filler tube hole on the inner fender. Remove the tank, drill a center hole, stick the tank back, and see how close you are. I used a 1-1/2" chassis punch for the filler tube but I think a 1" hole will be enough. Then dremel a slot so you can pop the filler tube in as in the pic. Oh, and run the hose and wires from both pumps inside the engine bay up front so you don't have to pull the fender liner in case a pump goes out. Cap off the unused pump hose. Nuthin' to it

Yes, they do.

The LCAs were changed, but not adjustable. I'm planning on making the shims (unless the right ones fall into my lap), but I'm not sure about the thickness. Seems like 1/4" might be right, but I hope to get it right the first time. BTW the caster on both wheels is identical, so that part should be simple. 4mm is the thickest factory shim. I put in a pair this afternoon, easy job, and got 2* more caster; am sitting now back at the factory spec of 7* measured at the upper ball joint. Tracks much better, but did nothing for the slight vibes I have between 35-45 MPH, although I did not expect it to. I have a 3" lift. Am using WJ LCAs.

No, the under dash lights came with the "Interior Lighting" package option. But all MJs I've seen are already wired for them, the receptacles are tucked up behind the kick panels. So you can pull them from a junk yard XJ and just plug them. Oh - and they did change the plug in 1991, so if you have a 91/92 MJ get the newer ones.

Yeah, that's the same one I use. Would like to be able to make a bit tighter 90* bends in close quarters with it though. :roll:

I used Porsche / VW Hella interior lights because they looked more like the original Renault units: http://comancheclub.com/forums/viewtopi ... ht=porsche

Pete; Can you reply to this - Again? I can't find it............ :eek:

It's not attached to the diff cover. You need to p/u of fab a rod from the operating lever to the diff. Either that or bypass it. This is what it's supposed to look like: Image Not Found

I had a Smittybilt tube bumper for awhile on my MJ, but it had a 2" receiver welded on. Wouldn't want to haul anything larger than a wheel barrow on it though. :D :D

Must be a slow night.................

I've seen them in some Export XJs in Saudi and other Middle East countries. Must have been Waggys too since this was in the late 80's.

X2. Now you need to start installing some CHROME! Bumpers, mirrors, door handles, grill, tailgate handle, etc. etc. :cheers:

Nah, not my truck, but my 88 will look similar to that when I'm done with it; sans body kit, tube bumper, and red paint. Ah, crap, yet another thread I've gone off topic in. :oops: Street Comanche. http://www.cardomain.com/ride/393950

Dayem, that's beautiful, proportions look much better. A bit like the old CJ-8 Scramblers w/o the giraffe hauling high cab roof line.

That it is Twisty, it's perfectly obvious now that you pointed it out. Good eye :cheers: Found it somewhere on the web a while back, and threw it out. Looks pretty good though IMHO.......

This is the factory tube bumper. The only one I ever saw was in a pic of an MJ in a yard in Antelope, CA. Beat to crap it was though............ :oops: Image Not Found

Unfortunately no. The only thing you'll find in the MJ harness is the clock receptacle. MJs never had this option AFAIK; only the early XJ Limiteds in the US, and a lot of the early Export XJs. I have the wiring diagram for it, and toyed with the idea of fitting it in my 91 MJ, but finding the correct sensors are the problem. Every indicator depends on a switch closure to trigger a fault on the unit, there are no special logic circuits, so it could be fabbed, but it was more work than I thought it was worth. Would be neat though to get one working 100%............... :cheers: