HOrnbrod

LEDs on everything except the flourescents in the garage. But they'll be gone soon after the pile of spares are gone. No more halogens or incandescents except for dash light. I don't like the bright whites either Jeff. There's a real good selection now if you do your homework.

Ditch the outdated halogens, Go LED

The reason these leak is normally a bad o-ring under the plate, and/or the push nut that holds the rubber wire seal is loose or has fallen off. Either is a fairly easy fix but of course you have to pull the sender out of the tank to find out the cause.

Swap the new regulator in before doing anything to the pump. You may get lucky...

What's the tow van Sam? Looks like it might be a bit overmatched with that load..

I am. Several in fact.

I think from one of the few movies I actually liked, An Officer and a Gentleman.

I much prefer Mopar parts over aftermarket. THIS regulator on Ebay is correct for your 91. For the pump get a Bosch 69302. Excellent write-up HERE and on Kryptronic's build site HERE.

Do get a vacuum tester and test it. But if the pressure regulator has no vacuum applied, you should still see ~39 psi on the pressure gauge. W/o vacuum, as in normal ops, you will see ~31 psi. You have 15 psi of fuel pressure with no change of pressure when you clamped the return line. The pressure regulator isn't working.

Sounds like it. Did you make sure the regulator vacuum line actually is pulling a vacuum and not just sucking air? If the vacuum is good, with the engine running and the fuel pressure gauge hooked up, find the return fuel line where it is rubber (under the fuel rail after the quick connectors) and momentarily clamp it shut with a pair of pliers while watching the pressure gauge. If the pressure rises on the gauge, you will need a new pressure regulator.

Yes, but he's only getting up to ~15psi so I think the regulator diaphragm is probably shot. Start it up, pull the vacuum hose, and see what happens to the pressure.

Camanche.. That's a dollar-doubler-deal right there.

Grab the power windows, locks, regulators, wiring harness, etc. and resell as a complete PnP MJ power windows/locks kit. Wish one were available when I did mine....

This is true, the free arch of an unloaded MT spring and stock spring is the same. However the load rating on a new MT spring is ~1" per 1700 lbs. including the body and payload. A stock sagged out rear leaf spring's load rating is probably less than 10% of that. So even the body weight knocks the spring down a couple of inches or more down. Thus when new MT springs are installed, aftermarket or stock, you get an instant 2"-3" lift.

For me the MT (Metric Ton, not 1 ton) rear springs initially provided close to 3" of lift from what I was originally, but over about a years' time they sagged down an inch, as leaf springs normally do. To get the rear end back up to match the front I used some lift shackles. Most leaf springs don't look sagged, but load the bed up and you will soon be able to see if they are shot or not. If your springs are still the originals, most likely they should be replaced. No 3.53 ratio axles, closest is 3.55. Those are fairly common. Personally I went from a 3.55 to 4.10 by swapping in a stronger D44 axle. I'm assuming you have a D35 axle now? If you're going to replace it and go 4WD, might as well replace it with a stronger axle, like a Dana 44, Chrysler 8.25, Ford 8.8, AMC-20, etc.

OP, if you have a 91 model it's an MPI system.

Yeah, that's about 1/2 of the pressure you should see. Did you pull the vacuum hose off the pressure regulator while it was running? W/o vacuum, fuel pressure should jump up ~8-10 psi if the regulator is working. How old is your fuel filter? If you don't know, change it.

The tank vents (2) are probably inop need to be replaced. They are on top of the tank. Get the rubber washers they fit into also. https://www.quadratec.com/products/51315_9001.htm

All diesels for me. Rode the Dogfish and the Tusk till they went away. Then transferred to surface craft. Couldn't bring myself to ride the nukes. Was pig boat brainwashed by then.

Sounds great Pat, and will be a great investment. Always loved the "V" tails. I got the chance to fly/land one a few times many years ago when I worked at the Ft. Eustis (aka known as Ft. Useless) Flying Club in VA for flight time. It seemed kind of squirrelly to me, but I was used to driving the bus-like high wing C-172's and 150's. I was a crappy pilot too.

Ah so, David Carradine was one of my favorite actors. Sorry to hear about your leg mate..

I had that same problem when I had the Ravine wheels on. Should work fine with the Moabs too: "There's another way if you don't want change knuckles (I didn't). You can't buy the OEM caps anymore, and there are no low profile caps; they will all stick through the hole somewhat. One solution I found is to use Mr. Gasket Chrome Dust Caps. They are just a tiny bit small, but you can cut a strip of aluminum from a beer can and fold it around the inner lip of the hub for a shim and they will tap in firmly and stay forever. http://www.summitracing.com/parts/mrg-2485/overview/ They look better than the original dust caps sticking through the hole.

If he did I'm driving up there next week to kick his azz.

Love those tail lamps.

Nice Bonanza.