HOrnbrod

Go for it kids. No hate here, people much more experienced than you are just trying to help. Y'all are butthurt I guess, I don't care anymore.

Man, that looks like some pretty healthy grades Ben. No grass to cut?

Best thing for the aluminum valve is to have it powder coated in the color of your choice. Had mine done several years ago matching the truck color and it still looks new. I left the raised ribs natural. Paint won't last...

Do you still have the vacuum controlled water heater valve in the engine bay? If so, the vacuum line from the valve should go to a "T" fitting on the right firewall. Any vacuum hoses missing from that "T" fitting?

It looks like the vacuum supply line from the reservoir to the HVAC / A/C control @$$'y. It hooks to a nipple on the right side on the back. Does it pull a vacuum when you start the engine?

Read the last paragraph on my previous response. Take the module out of the circuit as above and try the wipers w/o the inline module connected to see if there is any change in wiper speed.

It's actually a stud on the engine block. Ground don't get much better than that.

https://www.wd40specialist.com/products/dry-lube/

95% of those design gafs were gone when the HOs came out. For example the blower ground breaks out of the cross-body engine harness and grounds at the dipstick.

Fix it.

Now THIS wouldn't be boring.

I have never heard of the intermittent wiper module causing slow wipers. And this module has nothing to do with blinkers either. Do you have an intermittent module on your MJ? If so you can pull the harness connectors from each end of the module and plug them together to eliminate the module for testing purposes. And yes, there are still a few NOS modules available (~$200/ea ), and there are plenty of "pre-owned" on Ebay. Search for p/n 56006957.

Test the motor unplugged with an external 12V supply. Like a battery charger if you have one, or 12V off your battery. Also if you have a meter, hook up across pins A and B and measure the resistance through the windings.

On my 91 blower, BLK (-) is pin B, and GRN (+) is A.

Can you access the Toshiba drive with Win 7 now? Any files on it? If so, going to format it before loading anything on it?

I use this on all mechanical cables. Doesn't gum up, lasts forever, and easy to apply into the sheath with the needle. Great stuff. https://www.amazon.com/Bike-Aid-Drislide-Multi-Purpose-Lubricant-Liquid-oz/dp/B001F2Y25G

Which 28mm bar did you get? The Mopar 28mm bar or an aftermarket, like an Addco? The Addco was way too stiff and rigid up front for me, but the Mopar 28mm was perfect. It's much more flexible.

To calibrate the speedometer, you need to calculate the correct tooth count for the speedo gear based on tire size and rear axle ratio using the tables on the link. It's all explained there.

The speedo gear's position in the housing is determined by the number of teeth on the gear. There is no speedo gear with 55 teeth, so I don't know what the number on your gear means. See THIS thread. It will tell you exactly how to properly align your speedo gear.

Until you experience both a front and rear sway bar, you'll never know what a difference it makes. Just for grins I disconnected both one day, tied them up out of the way and went for a drive. The under-steer was terrible and it felt like driving wallowing bath tub around curves. Anyone who says sway bars make no difference is clueless about road handling.

It would be interesting to see how a NOS Cali ECU would perform on a non-Cali system. They are quite plentiful and are available for reasonable prices, even NOS ones. Since they have different Mopar part numbers than the non-Cali ECUs, there might be internal differences, but I doubt it as 1991 was the first year of OBD1 and things were a bit primitive then. I think wiping it clean then running it in a non-Cali 91 XJ/MJ it would settle in just fine w/o throwing any codes.

Yeah, there's residual memory in there from the remanufacturer's QC testing. For sure wipe I'd it clean and let it start gathering fresh info from it's new home. Just for grins, did you check for codes with the new remanned ECU after installation?

^^ These options are not hypothetical - they're boring. But #2 is probably the one that's easiest and the least boring and the most bang for the $$. Then later on MPI if and when you're bored again...

Good news. As always with a new (to your MJ) ECU, all residual memory should be cleared so the ECU/PCM can start from scratch. To clear the residual memory, do the following procedure: Clearing error codes and removing residual memory 1. Disconnect the POSITIVE battery Terminal and touch it to ground for 30 seconds. (This is to discharge the PCM capacitors, which maintain the Adaptive Memory. 2. Reconnect the Battery Cable 3. Turn Ignition Switch to the "ON" position but DO NOT start the engine 4. Turn Headlight "ON" 5. Turn Headlights "OFF" 6. Turn Ignition Key "OFF" The PCM Adaptive memory has now been flashed, or erased from the PCM.

So is the blower motor, part number 56002858.