HOrnbrod

That's wrong as the Hayes generic manual usually is. "Tighten the adjustment nut to 21 ft. lbs to seat the bearings while rotating the wheel by hand. Then loosen nut 1/2 turn, again rotate the wheel and tighten to 19 ft. lbs. final torque. Replace cotter pin." Lose or burn the Haynes and invest in a set of the factory service manuals.

Search by part number. RockAuto and others all have it all: 53002928, ROTOR, Brake, 2WD 5252986, L Caliper, 2WD 5252987, R Caliper, 2WD 5252613, Pad Package, 2WD 92-1/2 is when the 2WD rotors/calipers changed to the 4WD type. Last time I did calipers / pads, I got rebuilt calipers from O'Reilly's, Raybestos brand.

https://comancheclub.com/topic/5323-mercedes-ambient-temperature-display-in-an-mj/

Rear: New General Springs metric ton rear springs then when they settle, Teraflex 1" extended rear shackles. Front : To match the rear, OME 930 coils w. whatever spring pads you might need to equalize. For me a 1/2" stock spring pad was perfect. Plus all your suspension springs F & R are new. Handles/rides great. Total lift after full settle = ~2.5".

Get the Bosch. You'll get a lot more than two years out of it. https://www.ebay.com/itm/NEW-Bosch-Electric-Fuel-Pump-Kit-69301-Jeep-Cherokee-Comanche-Wrangler-1986-1990/152981215748?epid=1738715865&hash=item239e641a04:g:BQAAAOSwQRlaz8FJ:sc:USPSPriority!35016!US!-1

Tell your mechanic to check the codes then. He should know this. Probably save you some $$.

I like my factory CD player. Period correct..

That was a joke. I hate Goodyear Wranglers, especially the ones they make for Walmart. Actually my #1 tire is Michelin LTX M/S; they'll last longer than your vehicle will. #2 would probably Cooper A/T3's. Both great all-around tires that can handle most anything.

I like Goodyear Wranglers from Walmart.

Bogging down was a bad choice of words, better to say the idle RPMs dropped slightly when the compressor came on. After cleaning the IAC, the idle remained constant with no dip when the compressor kicked in.

^^ This. Mine was bogging down a little when the A/C compressor kicked on. Pulled the IAC and douched / cleaned the valve itself and the passageways on the throttle body with fuel injection cleaner. No more bogging down.

Sitting out there in the weather isn't the ideal place for it. Better IMO to relocate it somewhere in the engine compartment. Example:

Thanks - thought the brown buttons were just dirty. Never had one.

Brown button labels? What's that? Pic?

Very true Mike. I never had a chance to see an SCCA truck event. Did you ever get to watch one?

The list of annual champions and their rides below. Super competitive.. 1987 California Max Jones Nissan D21 1988 Minnesota Tommy Archer Jeep Comanche 1989 California Ray Kong Nissan D21 1990 Wisconsin Peter Cunningham Mazda B2002 1991 California Steve Saleen Ford Ranger

Si. The firewall has the funky braided strap to the block. Which MJ are you referring to?

I guess he's not a Jeeper.

A bad CPS would show up as a code 11. There's no reliable way to test the CPS on an HO except replace it. I've had this same problem engine cut-off problem at temp twice and both times it was the ignition coil. There was no OBD1 code either. The first time it was a cooked original Mopar coil, replaced it with an aftermarket Accel coil I had lying around. It too failed about a year later. OP, if you replaced your Mopar coil with a cheap aftermarket, this could be the problem. Hope you replaced it with an original Mopar unit. The ignition coil is stupidly mounted directly to the engine block w. no insulators and it bakes over time. On an aftermarket junk coil this time isn't very long. The best cure for this is here . If you can't do this, at least get the ignition coil off the engine block.

Yes. Read the second paragraph Here.

From bushing center to bushing center they are the same Wahoo. They should have no effect on caster if that's why you are asking.

Check for trouble codes:

Yes, no problem. Had the 94 distributor in for many years. Good upgrade.

Forget transferring the internal spring over if you use a quality lower hose like a Gates or Goodyear. The newer modern hoses use stronger ribbed rubber compounds and the spring is no longer necessary. Been running a Gates lower hose for years with w. no spring with a Hesco high flow pump with zero problems in an open cooling system. Even with the Renix closed system it should be fine.

How long does it hold pressure at the fuel rail Schrader valve after you shut it down?