The tubes on the factory bumper were straight. No curve on the ends like the below:
This is an aftermarket tube bumper - I had one briefly many years ago on my MJ that was manufactured by the now defunct company Genuine Steel. Note the curved ends like the OP's:
I did a similar "horn mod" using two horns from a mid-60's Buick Electra 225. They do get people's attention and sound more like a bus than a car. Good idea mounting them out of the weather. I mounted them in the stock locations with the bells facing down to keep the H2O out. So far so good.
I don't know squat about durometers John, but THIS is an excellent article detailing the characteristics of suspension bushings.
You ever try the poly Brown Dog motor mounts? Never again - vibration maximus.
As usual, zero answers to my questions. More tap dancing and bluster. Again, Got any legitimate documentation on this "hack" from JeepTech?
"That's what "the book" is as shown on my website's front page with an explanation."
Maybe you forget I had something to do with your website.
Anyhow, I'm done. And you do help the Renix people, very true.
Get over yourself.
Cutting the vent tubes is still a hack for Renix only then if you will. I wouldn't do it until all other options were legitimate tried. It was a most likely a dealership profit-making shortcut. Got any legitimate documentation on this "hack" from JeepTech?
Brake fluid has been around since hydraulic brakes and has gone through many evolutions to satisfy SAE specs. Why use it since reliable and safe leak-fix products are readily available? Probably another dealership save $$ thingy.
When I first got my MJ it had the original engine and had some pretty serious blow-by. Fixed it by replacing the CC valve with a new one then upgrading the small vacuum CCV hose setup with those from a newer 96 XJ that were much larger. Seems more sensible to me to try upgrading the CCV system first before cutting the vent tubes or some other hack.
I'm not using brake fluid in my power steering system to fix a leak just because someone says so. I'll use a product that's designed specifically for the job. Just like I'm not hacking off the vent tubes on my valve cover because someone says it works better that way.
Not factory, it's someone's idea of ground effects. The body side molding isn't factory either, or the rear bumper, wheels, decals, or splash shields. All in all though, it's not a bad look at all.
91. I converted to Renix type grills so I could swap them out occasionally. HO's only have one grille, the 8-slot. Renix had the 10 and 21 slot, and others.
I've been looking for the upper piece for quite awhile. Found one in Italy on Ebay, but it was damaged and the seller still wanted a small fortune. NOS is tough to find...
So you spend ten bucks on gas and a couple of hours driving around and looking for parts in the stores that aren't quite right to save $7 on shipping? Doesn't make much sense to me mate...
My steering gear box started to drip a bit a few years ago at the output shaft the Pitman arm is connected to. I tried the below, and it actually worked - hasn't leaked since and had no ill effects. It's worth a shot.
Hoping and praying all you guys on the east coast especially in the Carolinas and Georgia will be okay throughout the next few days. Please take care everyone.
I think the Rotella T6 5w-40 synthetic is just as good as the Chevron Delo. I use the Chevron because Hesco recommended it for my stroker crate engine, and that's good enough for me. Been in my rig since 05; still running strong.